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Gladius - Why is this PCP's action so noisy?


jantar
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My Hatsan Gladius PCP has a very noisy action, the noise in my ear being louder than the muzzle report! Bigger problem is that as soon as any target (pigeons, rabbits and rats) hear it off they run.

Could it be the hammer spring is incorrectly set? If so how can it be adjusted?

Anyone any ideas of a solution other than earplugs?

Cheers....

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3 hours ago, jantar said:

My Hatsan Gladius PCP has a very noisy action, the noise in my ear being louder than the muzzle report! Bigger problem is that as soon as any target (pigeons, rabbits and rats) hear it off they run.

Could it be the hammer spring is incorrectly set? If so how can it be adjusted?

Anyone any ideas of a solution other than earplugs?

Cheers....

hello, it is noted for having noisy internals, if you are not on the hatsan forum it might pay to and there will be ways to sort this out, maybe a pw member has done and can give you more help, cheers

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Cheers m8,

I am on the Hatsan forum plus I have placed requests on many others but as yet no-one appears to have an answer. Pity its a major problem that spoils an otherwise great rifle.

Having the skills and tools I might strip the action and use a bit of moly grease on the hammer face or weaken the hammer spring (after buying replacement parts just in case) and see how that goes.

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9 minutes ago, jantar said:

Cheers m8,

I am on the Hatsan forum plus I have placed requests on many others but as yet no-one appears to have an answer. Pity its a major problem that spoils an otherwise great rifle.

Having the skills and tools I might strip the action and use a bit of moly grease on the hammer face or weaken the hammer spring (after buying replacement parts just in case) and see how that goes.

hello, ok well good luck and happy shooting

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6 hours ago, jantar said:

Cheers m8,

I am on the Hatsan forum plus I have placed requests on many others but as yet no-one appears to have an answer. Pity its a major problem that spoils an otherwise great rifle.

Having the skills and tools I might strip the action and use a bit of moly grease on the hammer face or weaken the hammer spring (after buying replacement parts just in case) and see how that goes.

how old is your gun? If its still under warranty get it back to the shop, could be the probe isn't sealing correctly so air is escaping from the breach?

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6 hours ago, Medic1281 said:

You probably already know this, and I may be barking up the wrong tree but, be careful with grease in any area that gets high pressure. You may get an effect where by the grease ignites similar to a Diesel engine. 

No problem m8, checked all that and there is no signs of dieseling at all.

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2 hours ago, Mice! said:

how old is your gun? If its still under warranty get it back to the shop, could be the probe isn't sealing correctly so air is escaping from the breach?

Sadly due to an illness soon after buying the warranty ran out just as I started back into using it. Not too bothered though so decided to do it myself with a bit of guidance from forums. I found a video of how to strip it so oft I jolly well went....

Seeing I had nothing better to do this afternoon I opted to watch the video on how to strip the Gladius ( then had a go myself. Have a look at that video before you go on to read how I did the job.

It was far easier than I first thought and it came apart very easily, even that 'dreaded' anti tamper was dealt with inside a minute by the careful use of an 8mm drill bit which took its head off and without the need for a bit guide! I admit that I did use a decent gun vice though to hold it steady.
All screws came out with ease and no trace of any locking compound or Loctite was found anywhere. They were tight yes, but a decent driver bit sorted them.
Now its in bits an examination showed a terrible standard of machining, but more so the finishing off of it. Rough edges were on every machined surface and cut slot.
An hour later and much use of my Dremmel followed by a going over with wet and dry paper and WD40 then a clean with hot soapy water and a good rinse showed nice edges with no rough spots at all. The Chinese B2 I once owned had better finished internals and that is the truth. Perhaps it can be put down to the fact that my Gladius was one of the first imported and sold in the UK? Not really an excuse for poor workmanship or poor quality control though is it?
I applied Moly Grease on all surfaces which could rub against each other and gun oiled all pivot points in its linkage as it was assembled. Finally back together I gave it a test shoot and Chrono test which came out no different to its readings prior to the stripping down before refitting the scope. A barrel clean tightened the groups into a single 10 shot hole on hole 3mm across at 40m shot from a bench rest and bipod. Not bad for a .177!
The hammer action is still too noisy (which I intend to return to), the sliding parts in the cocking lever train remain to be rough in use and I can see no easy way to ease it. All I can say is that from this retired engineers point of view it is a very poor designed system with little support by the synthetic sliding shoe being supported and guided by its sides only.
Best comment I can make is that it is powerful at 11.38 and is extremely accurate.
Tomorrow is another day....heyho

 
 
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you should have taken before and after pics, plenty on here love following these kind of threads.

I know nothing about the rifle but it sounds like cheap manufacturing so I'm surprised it shoots well, by the sounds of things you'll soon have it purring.

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Thanx for the comments, and yes it does shoot as I stated. Its only that noisy hammer which spoils it. But, if you haven't shot one then have a go whenever you can.

I admit that I was disappointed mightily with what I discovered inside it because as a retired engineer of the old school there is no excuse in todays world of robotic machinery and design tools for such poor quality, ragged edges and sheer filth. I really think that mine must have been a late on Friday one! Honestly I have owned quite a few Hatsan rifles of all types and this is by a long mile the very worst I have ever had. If my illness had not got in the way and prevented me from using it until its warranty had ended I would certainly have taken it back for a refund! Surely to generate interest leading to high sales numbers the initial batch, of which this was one, ought to have been faultless to encourage it.

Because I have yet to resolve more of the hammer noise problem, the sloppy cocking pivots, plus the not so smooth sliding action of the cocking shoe I will try to set up a camera so I can hopefully video it, or at least take a series of pictures next time I strip and rebuild it. It has to happen because that noise is off putting to my concentration.

The accuracy I partly put down to its sheer weight of 5.3Kg including the scope. She's a big girl for a Bullpup! Certainly not a 'carrier' even with its provided sling unless you are built like a brick  ****house.

One thing I have discovered is that once the anti tamper screw and its rod are removed the rifle works just the same without them!

Here are the pics of the targets at 35 and 40m before and after a barrel clean using 10 shot strings. The day was windless. Shots taken were all bench rested.

816368809_Rebuildtest16Aug2018.jpg.9005561947e561191831c7331a04467b.jpg

 

 

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10 hours ago, Medic1281 said:

You need to try out for the olympics with shooting like that. Well done! Interesting read too. 

A few have asked why I don't enter competitions and the reason is because I am simply not competitive. This is the only sport I actually take part in. I enjoy the skills required to shoot accurately and the mechanical aspects of my rifles including the repairs and UK level tuning and that is enough for me. Bit of a loner really so crowds are not my thing, not even the gun shows. That is why I stick to the smaller ranges and clubs where on many days there are very few present at the times I am, the others are usually archers. Too old to change now too but life is all about enjoying yourself and I certainly do that.

Happy days...... 

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Great, At last the noise has been tamed by the simple expedient of the use of a cheap 'O' ring! Quite why a company as huge as Hatsan could not have thought of this is way beyond understanding. Only explanation being they were more concerned about joining the Bullpup market than actually providing a 'pup' that worked as well as its competition. Their loss and this experience now makes me wonder if I can ever trust Hatsan or their importers again considering the poor Customer Service, after sales service, spare part shortages (virtually non existent) and extremely poor build quality. If only I had tested this before illness stopped me for a year then I would not have kept and got a refund!

My advice after my experience DO NOT BUY ONE IN THE UK!

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  • 2 weeks later...
On ‎22‎/‎08‎/‎2018 at 14:03, Seadog1408 said:

Where did you place this noise cancelling O-ring ?

 

 

mike

:sad1: So much for expecting responsible answers and suggestions! As for putting it in my ear only someone with no ideas or engineering expertise at all would think of that one. No help mat all!

:yes: Seadog 1408, I removed the Air reservoir tube and placed a poly (not nitrile) O ring as a just fit over the end threads on the end of it according to the advice I was given but only as a stopgap until I had given the problem more thought. It did work though so I based my latest ideas of modification on that.

On insertion of the reservoir it does not need to be fully tightened, just enough to stop any side wobble. It now transpires that many others in the USA have also taken this course of action with the exception that those with FAC power having to replace it regularly due to the higher strike force. Mine is sub 12 and still intact after a tin of pellets with the hammer face noise as it impacts the air valve housing face being far less. Its worth a try. My new hammer arrived and from appearances is far better machined that the original one they installed during manufacture. It is also fractionally shorter on its front strike rod so once I get around to it I will change hammers and remove the O ring to see what difference it makes. On USA suggestion I also intend to fractionally shorten then drill the front face of the hammer strike rod and install a synthetic PEEK (engineering synthetic material) rod to bring it back to original length as a cushion that will strike the air valve tip which should serve to reduce the slap even further by dampening the impact and associated vibration. I might also try using a nylon washer in place of the poly O ring too to make it a more rigid joint and offer more support to the reservoir body I will post again once I have completed the modification after our holidays and tested it. By the way the replacement hammer was supplied free by Edgar Bros with only postage to pay to my RFD, Solware. They now say not to pay so that's what I call great Customer Service from BOTH! Strange though that Edgar Bros was initially reluctant to have anything to do with my enquiries! All well that ends well though.......

:good:MICE!, Forgot to say I will be posting a series of pics as I do the mods.

 

Edited by jantar
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Hiya Mike, Yeah, I am going to try a few different 'engineering' plastics to see which deals both with the impact and resulting vibration best. I have tried the usual fibre washer but they were useless. Even tried a cut down tap washer too. PEEK will be too hard so I think nylon or a similar polymer may be better by having a little flex and give. At least I have found a UK company who can supply any type of plastic required and deliver next day and will be messaging them today for advice on type.

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