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Fixing cabinet to the wall


Danni
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42 minutes ago, Newbie to this said:

I'm talking about if there is a cavity inbetween the brick/block and the plaster board not about standing off the wall because of the skirting. In one my previous posts it states that mine is sitting on a wooden plinth because I didn't want to cut the skirting.

Apologies I miss understood. Your describing the cavity formed with dabs when fixing plasterboard?  Yes I agree a spacer would be needed there if your not going to remove plasterboard and set the cabinet back against the block work. Sorry I miss understood your initial post

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My FAO when applying for my licence last year was happy it was bolted to the exterior brick wall. But he did say he’d be happier if I fitted some trim around to stop anyone getting a bar behind. I just agreed but thought his suggestion offered very little in the way of extra security...,

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Ok so I have drilled an exploratory hole in the wall. It’s plasterboard then a 150mm cavity into the external block work. 

I can’t seem to find where the joists are from just tapping on the wall and so this means all the walls wall be like this. 

I was tempted to just go with it with super long bars into the external block but with the length of the bars, I’m not sure that’ll be very secure. Also the fact that I won’t be able to get the resin tube in enough to inject. 

Does anyone have any ideas for this? 

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52 minutes ago, Danni said:

Ok so I have drilled an exploratory hole in the wall. It’s plasterboard then a 150mm cavity into the external block work. 

I can’t seem to find where the joists are from just tapping on the wall and so this means all the walls wall be like this. 

I was tempted to just go with it with super long bars into the external block but with the length of the bars, I’m not sure that’ll be very secure. Also the fact that I won’t be able to get the resin tube in enough to inject. 

Does anyone have any ideas for this? 

Are you saying theres a 15 cm cavity behind every wall ?
Cant be right surely.

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It’s a 1st floor flat. All the partition walls are stud, but I was hoping this exterior wall (backs onto the stairwell) would at least have breeze block behind the plasterboard. It didn’t sound hollow like a stud wall so thought it would be brick of sorts. 

I’ve emailed the FAO for Sussex. With the cavity being that deep, I’d have to put some pretty large holes into the plasterboard in order to get the resin funnel into the brick to fill it. Who knows, he may not even think this is suitable. If that’s the case then there goes my chances of applying lol. 

 

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2 hours ago, Danni said:

Ok so I have drilled an exploratory hole in the wall. It’s plasterboard then a 150mm cavity into the external block work. 

I can’t seem to find where the joists are from just tapping on the wall and so this means all the walls wall be like this. 

I was tempted to just go with it with super long bars into the external block but with the length of the bars, I’m not sure that’ll be very secure. Also the fact that I won’t be able to get the resin tube in enough to inject. 

Does anyone have any ideas for this? 

How old is the building that your flat is in?

It sounds to me like you have timber stud walls for your internal partitions and if the building has been converted to flats at some point (I am guessing from your description) then you have a timber stud lining set about 25mm of the wall between your flat and the stairs. This lining may even have 2 layers of plaster board for fire protection. This would be a typical detail when converting a building to flats. I am not sure how you fit the cabinet to this as it sounds like a party wall to the communal stair and therefore sound, fire and thermal integrity will need to be maintained.

Edited by Jbob
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3 minutes ago, Scully said:

Cut a sheet of marine ply down to around 700 mm or 500 mm dependant on distance of stud centres( either 600 or 400) wide and as tall as your cabinet, and fix to those vertically as often as you please. Then fix cabinet to marine ply. Simples! ??

So your suggestion would be to forget the resin fixings and just use thick wood and screw considerably amounts of screws into the plasterboard instead?

Obviously using stuff suitable for plasterboard. 

But would that really hold it in?

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25 minutes ago, Danni said:

So your suggestion would be to forget the resin fixings and just use thick wood and screw considerably amounts of screws into the plasterboard instead?

Obviously using stuff suitable for plasterboard. 

But would that really hold it in?

If that’s what needs to be done to fix your cabinet, then yes. We erect houses with structural ‘fastenmaster’ or ‘timberlock’ bolts, amongst others. You could fix three down each side and no one is going to pull that off, as long as they’re driven home into each stud. No need for pre drilling; all you need is the bolts and the ‘head’ attachment which comes with them for your drill, and drive them right through everything into your stud. 

We’ve started using some others ( name escapes me ) which have a flush head to prevent you burying the head in the wood, which is best avoided with the other types because if you bury them to the extent you can’t get the ‘head’ attachment on when you want to remove them, they won’t be coming out! 

You could then fix your cabinet to the marine ply with the suitable pieces, such as short dumpy coach screws etc. A bit over the top it may seem, just to fix a cabinet, but if there is no alternative then that what I’d do. Believe me, your entire licensing team can swing in that, and it won’t be moving. 

When you move on it’ll be a simple case of a bit of filling, sanding down and touching up. ?

Edited by Scully
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Thanks!

i am having trouble locating the stud. I’ve got a magnet as well as a wall metal detector and it’s not picking anything up. 

The flat is a purpose built block (im on the middle floor) so it’s single layer plasterboard, cavity insulation (15cm) then the same brick that is in the stairwell outside so I’m presuming single layer there also. 

I drilled into the board hoping for breeze, but just my luck it’s just insulation!

another plasterboard style fixing I found was called Geefix, which may be fair decent if I go round your approach and use multiples of them.

wont be able to do anything till next weekend now due to work so have a little while to think about it

Edited by Danni
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If you start from an inside corner ( where there is no architrave ) and measure 400 or 600 from there and tap at this point on the wall. If it doesn’t sound hollow, drill a pilot hole, there should be wood shavings in the grooves on the drill bit if you’ve found a stud. I know it’s a bit suck it and see, but there’s no other way that I know of. All this assumes of course, that your stud partition wall is in fact wood, and not a galvanised frame. 

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ASK YOUR FEO!!! GIVE HIM OR HER A RING AND STOP WORRYING UNTIL YOU HAVE ALL THE INFO I WOULD NOT DO ANYTHING TILL YOU HAVE.

YES I AM SHOUTING COS IT'S THE ONLY ANSWER.. NO USE YOU TAKING ALL THE USEFUL AND NOT SO USEFUL INFO HERE AND THE FEO FINDING A SIMPLER ANSWER.

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1 hour ago, DUNKS said:

ASK YOUR FEO!!! GIVE HIM OR HER A RING AND STOP WORRYING UNTIL YOU HAVE ALL THE INFO I WOULD NOT DO ANYTHING TILL YOU HAVE.

YES I AM SHOUTING COS IT'S THE ONLY ANSWER.. NO USE YOU TAKING ALL THE USEFUL AND NOT SO USEFUL INFO HERE AND THE FEO FINDING A SIMPLER ANSWER.

Hey thanks for your input. As stated yesterday, I have emailed the FEO and awaiting a reply.

 

 

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