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Tiring to bring old Diana back to life


rovercoupe
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I did a 1908 Lincoln and jefferies a few years ago. Takes up the wall space nicely in my gun room now. Everything was rusted solid. after finally removing stock screw I was able to soak the whole metal work in a tray of oil. That feed it all up. Rubbed and reoiled the stock. The metal work was so pitted I had to take it to work and da for what seemed ages but even then I could not remove all the pitting. It got a coat of etch and sprayed matt black. I know for the purist its not the original finish. But it sure looks tidy

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9 minutes ago, bumpy22 said:

I did a 1908 Lincoln and jefferies a few years ago. Takes up the wall space nicely in my gun room now.

I have the same gun on the wall as we speak!,  I am currently working on a 60's crosman 38c, have had to weld up some of the internals, hard going as it's basically pot metal.

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Well it's apart and internally it's all there and not too bad apart from the spring and seal which I have a seal to modify in my bits box so all I need is a spring to get. It's certainly the most substantial Spring guide I have come across in a standard rifle.

It's going to get a blasting to get rid of the rust and then see how much metal has been eaten and go from there.

most of the varnish is off the stock so it should not take much to get it back to bare wood, now do I strip it or sand it?

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7 hours ago, ditchman said:

you ...it is really nice watching someone else do this for a change..............:good:

Thanks, the Mrs is working away during the week and I am meant to be working on the house but if I can sneak a few hours in here and there!

 

so today whilst waiting for other things to dry I managed to get the stock stripped back, apart from a couple of small dings its in really nice order, I'm going to leave the dings as they are as I don't want it to look like a new gun. 

Now it was stripped with some rather interesting stuff it did work but had to clean it off with water so from what I have read moisture raises the grain and the stain to go on it is water based so does it need to be flattened or can I just crack on?

oh and it's been bugging me all day and just realised the paint stripper smells like urinal blocks!

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6 hours ago, ditchman said:

what were they like in "their" day......................

i wouldn,t know i couldn,t afford one back then,but in recent times ive been able to get few that i couldnt years ago,but it sstill shoots ok now but have not touched it,it was in good order when i aquired it,complete with little wallet containing the different elements for the foresight.

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Before you stain it I would water bead test it first, as its quite old wood the original oil based sealer they applied first may have soaked in a fair bit, resulting in any water based product you try failing to soak into the wood, it will just bead like rain on a car bonnet. Leaving you with a couple of options either sanding it back even more or use an oil based stain.

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1 hour ago, fatchap said:

Before you stain it I would water bead test it first, as its quite old wood the original oil based sealer they applied first may have soaked in a fair bit, resulting in any water based product you try failing to soak into the wood, it will just bead like rain on a car bonnet. Leaving you with a couple of options either sanding it back even more or use an oil based stain.

good thinking.....................i had to get a beechwood stock to take stain using a hot air gun..........

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