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Stick making


Lloyd90
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I have the antlers off the first Roe Buck that I ever shot, and would like to turn them into something that I can keep forever. 

I am thinking a stick handle for one of them, anyone got any advice on how to do it? 

Also do I need to cut off the points so safer to use? 

Will antler just sand down and leave a nice finish underneath? 🤔

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The worlds your oyster really Lloyd90. You can simply drill up the centre of the coronet a couple of inches and the same down the stick and J&B a piece of threaded rod in there. Of course that leaves a lot of nasty pointy things sticking up to poke you in the ribs or worse still your eye.  If it is just a little two point yearling head then do the same but I advise taking the sharp bits off.  I initially give a roe antler a good going over with a brass brush, I have a small one like a big tooth brush and this gets all the debris out of the nooks and crannies and I leave it at that.  A little linseed oil fetched the colour up.

I like to see the coronet left on as it is part of the character.

If there is a lot of pearling it can be difficult to remove the hair and rubbish unless you have a power washer ... Richard Prior revolutioned cleaning deer heads when he suggested a power washer.  I have a portable vice which I clamp the antlers in and then ...don waterproofs and wellies and suggest face mask or keep your moith shut. 

I wouldn't use sand paper as it will remove the patina..... the brass brush does a good job without any damage.   Hope this helps.

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28 minutes ago, Walker570 said:

The worlds your oyster really Lloyd90. You can simply drill up the centre of the coronet a couple of inches and the same down the stick and J&B a piece of threaded rod in there. Of course that leaves a lot of nasty pointy things sticking up to poke you in the ribs or worse still your eye.  If it is just a little two point yearling head then do the same but I advise taking the sharp bits off.  I initially give a roe antler a good going over with a brass brush, I have a small one like a big tooth brush and this gets all the debris out of the nooks and crannies and I leave it at that.  A little linseed oil fetched the colour up.

I like to see the coronet left on as it is part of the character.

If there is a lot of pearling it can be difficult to remove the hair and rubbish unless you have a power washer ... Richard Prior revolutioned cleaning deer heads when he suggested a power washer.  I have a portable vice which I clamp the antlers in and then ...don waterproofs and wellies and suggest face mask or keep your moith shut. 

I wouldn't use sand paper as it will remove the patina..... the brass brush does a good job without any damage.   Hope this helps.

Thanks mate, it’s got a lot of “knobbly bits” as I’d call them near the base 🤣 

I’ll try and post some pics so show what I mean. 

Can you just cut the sharp bits off with a hand saw? 

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3 minutes ago, johnphilip said:

A sharp hacksaw would be better , fine tooth less mess less raggy edge .. nice piece of hazel will look nice . Start and take pictures of your work , makes it more interesting and somethingbto look back at . Warning though it can become aditive .

No...No..No..... not addictive at all.....passion is the word I think:good:

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21 minutes ago, la bala said:

If you need to cut any points off, they can be capped with a piece of rounded buffalo horn.

:good:    I have a bit lying about if you want some...even goat horn will do and can have some nice colour.

Not wishing to hog your thread but some of you may remember me saying I had wound some hazels with baler twine to see if they would grow a twist. We ll I couldn't wait any longer,  over two years as it is.  Cut one this morning and no doubt if you are willing to wait, it will work.  Just need to wait for this one to dry now ...Hurry up!   Hurry ip!

The end even made a feature where I had tied it off.

001.jpg

003.jpg

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1 hour ago, Walker570 said:

:good:    I have a bit lying about if you want some...even goat horn will do and can have some nice colour.

Not wishing to hog your thread but some of you may remember me saying I had wound some hazels with baler twine to see if they would grow a twist. We ll I couldn't wait any longer,  over two years as it is.  Cut one this morning and no doubt if you are willing to wait, it will work.  Just need to wait for this one to dry now ...Hurry up!   Hurry ip!

The end even made a feature where I had tied it off.

001.jpg

003.jpg

Will you sand the outside length and oil it now? 

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I couldn't wait any lomger to find out and it is not too bad. I should have left it another year really.  I will strap it to a straight piece of timber now and forget it again for at least a year. Stored in doors.  I have lightly rubbed it down with some medium steel wool to remove the 'chaffy' bits you get on hazel and that is how I will leave it until it hardens up. Will not apply any coating until I decide on the handle.  I have some fine woven rope/cord which I plan to wrap pne or two more. The baler twine tended to flatten out.  Don't do much fettling in the workshop these days , too busy killing verminous things...squirrels mainly, but rats, foxes, magpies as well...could be out every day all day. 

 

There is something similar to the feel of a well balanced stick as there is to a well balanced knife.

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