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Daughter has a, ideal isar combi 30 he.

Its showing fault code L9 and then goes to lock out with 3 horizontal dashes after pressing reset, showing its over heated. Boiler is 13 years old and system is about to be cleaned out as I don't think boiler has had a proper service for years ?

Have done the following, but still not going;

1,cleaned plate heat exchanger with acid, which was obstructed

2,removed pump checked/cleaned/bled

3,cleaned condensate trap, which was blocked and checked pipe and boiler connection

4,cleaned sump, which was like a half full coal bunker ?

5,checked diverter valve and plunged needle in/out

6,replaced all 3 thermista and the dry side thermista at top of boiler

7,replaced pcb (second hand), it fired and ran long enough to fully heat rads and steaming hot water (so flue is clear),then L9

8,system is filled to 1 bar pressure and bled and cleanser added all valves open

when it fires up after its cooled down to below 55 degrees,it runs for 1 minute gets warm in boiler casing and then cuts out,pressure goes from 1 bar upto 2.5 bar ?

Only thing I can think of next, is smash it to bits, check continuity of termista/pcb, poss heat exchanger blocked as lack of proper service it could be blocked ?

boiler control panel ?

ANYWAY,GUYS HELP ,I have exhausted my knowledge, my mate who is gas safe only suggestion was scrap it,so not very helpful, we did tell her when she bought the place that boiler is **** and wouldn't last long, but at £600 quid for a replacement is not an expense she needs right now as its her first house.

Thanks.

 

 

 

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My advice is not to mess about with gas boilers as they can easily go wrong and kill you. Get it serviced professionally and see what the guy says. It may be something simple like a diaphram or pump or something more serious. Either way I wouldn't want it in my house if it was in the condition you describe as carbon monoxide isint funny. 

When I had a gas combi it was 70 quid servicing once a year and they would change a part free as part of that. Every other year it would need something. Normally due to the hard water we had. 

Edited by GingerCat

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1 minute ago, GingerCat said:

My advice is not to mess about with gas boilers as they can easily go wrong and kill you. Get it serviced professionally and see what the guy says. It may be something simple like a diaphram or something more serious. Either way I wouldn't want it in my house if it was in the condition you describe as carbon monoxide isint funny. 

When I had a gas combi it was 70 quid servicing once a year and they would change a part free as part of that. Every other year it would need something. Normally due to the hard water we had. 

hello, i live in a hard water area, many years ago i discovered some interesting research on the use of enclosed magnets on cold water pipes and gas pipes so i bought 2  and put them under the gas boiler and they do keep the internal water system clean and not sure how it worked on gas but the boiler lasted many years without any problems, the property is now my sons and we replaced the boiler 2 years ago and put the magnets back and a recent service showed a clean system, i also put 4 magnets on the water pipe coming into the property under the sink and an example the kettle seems to be much cleaner, anyway worth a thought

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Guest

Is the wall thermostat faulty .join the wires together and see if boiler continues to run .mine did it once 

Edited by Guest

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either the expansio vessel or the flex to the exspanison vessel, easy test, isolate  one radiator and drain it completely, open valves re pressurise the system DO NOT BLEED THE RADIATOR and fire the system up, the empty radiator acts like an expansion vessel,if the system runs fit an external pressure vessel, less than  30 quid at screwfix, however the isar is a pile of poop ,look at replacing it when finances allow 

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15 hours ago, vampire said:

Daughter has a, ideal isar combi 30 he.

Its showing fault code L9 and then goes to lock out with 3 horizontal dashes after pressing reset, showing its over heated. Boiler is 13 years old and system is about to be cleaned out as I don't think boiler has had a proper service for years ?

Have done the following, but still not going;

1,cleaned plate heat exchanger with acid, which was obstructed

2,removed pump checked/cleaned/bled

3,cleaned condensate trap, which was blocked and checked pipe and boiler connection

4,cleaned sump, which was like a half full coal bunker ?

5,checked diverter valve and plunged needle in/out

6,replaced all 3 thermista and the dry side thermista at top of boiler

7,replaced pcb (second hand), it fired and ran long enough to fully heat rads and steaming hot water (so flue is clear),then L9

8,system is filled to 1 bar pressure and bled and cleanser added all valves open

when it fires up after its cooled down to below 55 degrees,it runs for 1 minute gets warm in boiler casing and then cuts out,pressure goes from 1 bar upto 2.5 bar ?

Only thing I can think of next, is smash it to bits, check continuity of termista/pcb, poss heat exchanger blocked as lack of proper service it could be blocked ?

boiler control panel ?

ANYWAY,GUYS HELP ,I have exhausted my knowledge, my mate who is gas safe only suggestion was scrap it,so not very helpful, we did tell her when she bought the place that boiler is **** and wouldn't last long, but at £600 quid for a replacement is not an expense she needs right now as its her first house.

Thanks.

 

 

 

After all the fiddling you have done (which I wouldn’t recommend) my guess would be the only important is in bold.

Any gas engineer worth their salt would start at the expansion vessel based on this alone - surprised your mate didn’t twig to that as the very first suggestion. 

And they say hiring a professional is expensive...if the expansion vessel is the fault it will be a lot cheaper to replace/install than all you have done already...

14 hours ago, oldypigeonpopper said:

hello, i live in a hard water area, many years ago i discovered some interesting research on the use of enclosed magnets on cold water pipes and gas pipes so i bought 2  and put them under the gas boiler and they do keep the internal water system clean and not sure how it worked on gas but the boiler lasted many years without any problems, the property is now my sons and we replaced the boiler 2 years ago and put the magnets back and a recent service showed a clean system, i also put 4 magnets on the water pipe coming into the property under the sink and an example the kettle seems to be much cleaner, anyway worth a thought

Not sure if I misunderstand but are you trying to delimescale your gas supply?!

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If the pressure is rising to 2.5 bar in a minute it's more likely to be the expansion vessel, or there maybe crossover water pressure from the hot water. Try what Winston said but at 13 year old combi I would not chuck another penny at it. 

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1 hour ago, LondonLuke said:

After all the fiddling you have done (which I wouldn’t recommend) my guess would be the only important is in bold.

Any gas engineer worth their salt would start at the expansion vessel based on this alone - surprised your mate didn’t twig to that as the very first suggestion. 

And they say hiring a professional is expensive...if the expansion vessel is the fault it will be a lot cheaper to replace/install than all you have done already...

Not sure if I misunderstand but are you trying to delimescale your gas supply?!

hello, i hardly think so, i would take a look on google , using magnets on water and natural gas pipes, i have been using these devices for over 20 years,

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17 hours ago, oldypigeonpopper said:

hello, i live in a hard water area, many years ago i discovered some interesting research on the use of enclosed magnets on cold water pipes and gas pipes so i bought 2  and put them under the gas boiler and they do keep the internal water system clean and not sure how it worked on gas but the boiler lasted many years without any problems, the property is now my sons and we replaced the boiler 2 years ago and put the magnets back and a recent service showed a clean system, i also put 4 magnets on the water pipe coming into the property under the sink and an example the kettle seems to be much cleaner, anyway worth a thought

All my boiler installs have a magnet/sludge filter,its part of the warranty.

8 hours ago, Swinton said:

Is the wall thermostat faulty .join the wires together and see if boiler continues to run .mine did it once 

Not tried that,thanks.

7 hours ago, seph234 said:

Have you checked the pressure in the expansion vessel?

 

Yes,thats one of first things I did,was low pumped up to 1 bar and its holding,but with pressure rise its first thing I would assume is bladder gone.

4 hours ago, Winston72 said:

either the expansio vessel or the flex to the exspanison vessel, easy test, isolate  one radiator and drain it completely, open valves re pressurise the system DO NOT BLEED THE RADIATOR and fire the system up, the empty radiator acts like an expansion vessel,if the system runs fit an external pressure vessel, less than  30 quid at screwfix, however the isar is a pile of poop ,look at replacing it when finances allow 

pipe to expansion vessel and connection to heat exchanger are clear,would fit external to boiler expansion vessel as its a boiler off wall to fit ideal one.

2 hours ago, B725 said:

If the pressure is rising to 2.5 bar in a minute it's more likely to be the expansion vessel, or there maybe crossover water pressure from the hot water. Try what Winston said but at 13 year old combi I would not chuck another penny at it. 

Not sure what crossover water pressure is.

Thanks for all the replies,gives me some scope before I scrap it.

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2 hours ago, LondonLuke said:

After all the fiddling you have done (which I wouldn’t recommend) my guess would be the only important is in bold.

Its an Ideal boiler so its only ever scrap

Any gas engineer worth their salt would start at the expansion vessel based on this alone - surprised your mate didn’t twig to that as the very first suggestion. 

done that,it was under pressure but is holding 1 bar now.

And they say hiring a professional is expensive...if the expansion vessel is the fault it will be a lot cheaper to replace/install than all you have done already...

yeah I know,i am a professional and my labour is free as its our/her boiler and all new parts were returned for credit,so cost is £30 so far.

 

 

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2 hours ago, oldypigeonpopper said:

hello, i hardly think so, i would take a look on google , using magnets on water and natural gas pipes, i have been using these devices for over 20 years,

Just not sure what a magnet is going to do to gas?

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8 minutes ago, LondonLuke said:

Just not sure what a magnet is going to do to gas?

It only works on Natural Gas, BUT, it smooths out the flow as the tides come in and go out,        I think   !      🤔

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1 hour ago, vampire said:

All my boiler installs have a magnet/sludge filter,its part of the warranty.

Not tried that,thanks.

Yes,thats one of first things I did,was low pumped up to 1 bar and its holding,but with pressure rise its first thing I would assume is bladder gone.

pipe to expansion vessel and connection to heat exchanger are clear,would fit external to boiler expansion vessel as its a boiler off wall to fit ideal one.

Not sure what crossover water pressure is.

Thanks for all the replies,gives me some scope before I scrap it.

hello, these magnet units fit onto the water and gas pipes under the boiler

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1 minute ago, Westley said:

It only works on Natural Gas, BUT, it smooths out the flow as the tides come in and go out,        I think   !      🤔

hello, i am not sure how these work, not being a Scientist ???  i think with the water the magnetic force breaks down the water impurities/ gas am not sure, you can buy these magnets on the bay although i bought the ones under my sons boiler 20 years ago, since then i have fitted 4 on my sons incoming water pipe. 

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There was certainly a lot of moisture in the old Coal Gas, so much so,  you had to install syphon legs in pipe installations,  to collect and then drain the water/gas oil away.

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2 hours ago, vampire said:

All my boiler installs have a magnet/sludge filter,its part of the warranty.

Not tried that,thanks.

Yes,thats one of first things I did,was low pumped up to 1 bar and its holding,but with pressure rise its first thing I would assume is bladder gone.

pipe to expansion vessel and connection to heat exchanger are clear,would fit external to boiler expansion vessel as its a boiler off wall to fit ideal one.

Not sure what crossover water pressure is.

Thanks for all the replies,gives me some scope before I scrap it.

The water from the hot water side can get into the heating side its rare it happens. 

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I know it's on your list but it's a common fault and even though you have tested it I would look at borrowing a pump and just swap it out temporary. It was a common fault on the 24le and they suck air giving you the exspantion vessel  misread

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I would also suspect the water pump, especially if the thermistors have been changed. Pump can seem fine when cold but slow down and almost stop when they get hot.

I would only try a second hand head though, the boiler is not worth spending money on. Worst boiler Ideal ever made!

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21 hours ago, activeviii said:

I know it's on your list but it's a common fault and even though you have tested it I would look at borrowing a pump and just swap it out temporary. It was a common fault on the 24le and they suck air giving you the exspantion vessel  misread

thanks that makes sense.

5 hours ago, aga man said:

I would also suspect the water pump, especially if the thermistors have been changed. Pump can seem fine when cold but slow down and almost stop when they get hot.

I would only try a second hand head though, the boiler is not worth spending money on. Worst boiler Ideal ever made!

Thanks,will do that I have a couple will swap it out.Yes this model is carp

You gave me words of encouragement when I first set out on my boiler course many years ago now,thankyou.

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Given up,now going for spares and repairs,new boiler coming Friday.

Swapped pump,L9 so created air in upper rad,L9.So thinking it might be main heat exchanger/aluminium scrap.

Anyone want a load of ideal isar he 30, spares ?

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