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Lathe wanted


Medic1281
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Check for wear in the head stock and tail stock look for knocks and burrs on the lathe bed and also the morse taper in the tail stock should not have any burrs in it on the plus side try and buy one with as many tools as possible boring bar, lathe tools knurling tool chuck and drills etc I hope this helps.

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4 minutes ago, The Heron said:

Check for wear in the head stock and tail stock look for knocks and burrs on the lathe bed and also the morse taper in the tail stock should not have any burrs in it on the plus side try and buy one with as many tools as possible boring bar, lathe tools knurling tool chuck and drills etc I hope this helps.

Thanks, yes it all helps!!

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I was told the Myford's are over priced for a old lathe. Most have had lots of use not all are well cared for but get top dollar.

Have a look at the used gearhesd lathes from warco, the UK retailer usually has one or two for sale. Should do all you need for a home work shop.

Amadeal is another popular one.

One I liked the look of is the SPG Tools SP2129 lathe 38mm bore 5mt tailstock camlock Chuck and powered crossfeed and comes with all the kit you need steadies etc. Also not to heavy as some are half a ton

 

Not in stock and now not showing on there website. Amadeal and Warco do same for lots more money theirs is the vm290 iirc

Edited by figgy
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12 hours ago, figgy said:

I was told the Myford's are over priced for a old lathe. Most have had lots of use not all are well cared for but get top dollar.

Correct, but in my experience they’ve usually been lovingly maintained by recently deceased model engineers, and their heirs want to let them go for the market rate.  That said, be wary of a paint job masquerading as a restoration.  There are also people willing to pay over the odds for them because they’ve heard great things about them and are chasing some kind of golden age…think 80’s era Berettas (lights blue touch paper, retreats to safe distance).

Basically, you’ve got the choice of:

  • old English (Harrison, Colchester, Myford etc) 
  • new Chinese (Warco, Amadeal, Axminster etc). 

(You can probably see where this is going) 

I went for the former and got a Harrison.  It’s big and heavy (800kg! Be warned this is beyond the capacity of tail lifts on 3.5t vans) and dates from 1953.  The disadvantage with these old machines is that whilst they may be made well, they will need to have been maintained and serviced to keep the backlash within manageable proportions.

The older machines are somewhat analogous to buying an old side-by-side. You can pick them up for peanuts (scrap value) or you can pay many, many pounds for the more coveted, sorted models.

Modern Chinese machines are not built anywhere near as substianally but will usually come with a complete suite of accessories, including a set of metric change-gears.  Important if you want to cut threads.  Also, they are usually bench mounted and thus easier to transport and setup. 

The analogy here is a modern Turkish gun.  Will likely do everything your skill level is capable of, but not finished anywhere near as nicely.  And, you will get snobs who immediately dismiss them out-of-hand, despite never having used one in anger.  If you don’t have the time or contacts to hunt down that elusive well sorted-machine, then go for a modern package deal. 

As others have said, ensure you get as much tooling as possible with the lathe.  It’s possible to sink a lot of money into the all the bits to go with it, just the same as a rifle setup will end up costing a lot if you have to buy scope, mounts, bipod, moderator, sling swivel all separately.  Avoid Ebay as prices get stupid very quickly.

Another thing people forget, is that the machine has to be levelled. Otherwise you will end up producing tapers instead of straight passes, as the machine is, in effect, pulling itself out of square due to its substantial mass.  Buy, borrow, beg or steal a machinist’s level and some shims.  It’s not easy the first time you do it, but worth it.  I used to work with commissioning engineers who could unpack, bolt down and level a huge 4m+ machine in a few hours.  Impressive to see.  Even a benchtop lathe benefits from levelling, and if you do go this route, make sure whatever you’re bolting the thing to is substantial.

Youtube is chock full of videos explaining the basics.  It’s also full of people who will happily put up a 45+ min video with long rambling introductions to show about 10minutes of useable content.  Have a look at ‘This old Tony’ as a starter for 10.  He goes on a bit, but it’s humourous and educational. 

Have a look at lathes.co.uk if you need to research an older model of machine (or you just fancy reacquainting yourself with website design from the mid-90s).  Also, ‘The Amateur’s Lathe’ by Sparrey is less than a tenner from Amazon and is a good starter book.

Machining is a helluva rabbit hole to go down, and you will always be learning something new.

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1 hour ago, udderlyoffroad said:

Correct, but in my experience they’ve usually been lovingly maintained by recently deceased model engineers, and their heirs want to let them go for the market rate.  That said, be wary of a paint job masquerading as a restoration.  There are also people willing to pay over the odds for them because they’ve heard great things about them and are chasing some kind of golden age…think 80’s era Berettas (lights blue touch paper, retreats to safe distance).

Basically, you’ve got the choice of:

  • old English (Harrison, Colchester, Myford etc) 
  • new Chinese (Warco, Amadeal, Axminster etc). 

(You can probably see where this is going) 

I went for the former and got a Harrison.  It’s big and heavy (800kg! Be warned this is beyond the capacity of tail lifts on 3.5t vans) and dates from 1953.  The disadvantage with these old machines is that whilst they may be made well, they will need to have been maintained and serviced to keep the backlash within manageable proportions.

The older machines are somewhat analogous to buying an old side-by-side. You can pick them up for peanuts (scrap value) or you can pay many, many pounds for the more coveted, sorted models.

Modern Chinese machines are not built anywhere near as substianally but will usually come with a complete suite of accessories, including a set of metric change-gears.  Important if you want to cut threads.  Also, they are usually bench mounted and thus easier to transport and setup. 

The analogy here is a modern Turkish gun.  Will likely do everything your skill level is capable of, but not finished anywhere near as nicely.  And, you will get snobs who immediately dismiss them out-of-hand, despite never having used one in anger.  If you don’t have the time or contacts to hunt down that elusive well sorted-machine, then go for a modern package deal. 

As others have said, ensure you get as much tooling as possible with the lathe.  It’s possible to sink a lot of money into the all the bits to go with it, just the same as a rifle setup will end up costing a lot if you have to buy scope, mounts, bipod, moderator, sling swivel all separately.  Avoid Ebay as prices get stupid very quickly.

Another thing people forget, is that the machine has to be levelled. Otherwise you will end up producing tapers instead of straight passes, as the machine is, in effect, pulling itself out of square due to its substantial mass.  Buy, borrow, beg or steal a machinist’s level and some shims.  It’s not easy the first time you do it, but worth it.  I used to work with commissioning engineers who could unpack, bolt down and level a huge 4m+ machine in a few hours.  Impressive to see.  Even a benchtop lathe benefits from levelling, and if you do go this route, make sure whatever you’re bolting the thing to is substantial.

Youtube is chock full of videos explaining the basics.  It’s also full of people who will happily put up a 45+ min video with long rambling introductions to show about 10minutes of useable content.  Have a look at ‘This old Tony’ as a starter for 10.  He goes on a bit, but it’s humourous and educational. 

Have a look at lathes.co.uk if you need to research an older model of machine (or you just fancy reacquainting yourself with website design from the mid-90s).  Also, ‘The Amateur’s Lathe’ by Sparrey is less than a tenner from Amazon and is a good starter book.

Machining is a helluva rabbit hole to go down, and you will always be learning something new.

Exactly.

this came from a model maker, so small scale work.

i have threaded barrels and made parts for loading presses, nothing big or heavy.

Comes with travelling steady, gears for threading, cuttingtools etc.

inherited another so letting this go.

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I can reply now!, bit weird

i have a Denford Viceroy ( similar to Boxford)... bombproof, made in Yorkshire..overa 2' bed, belt drive. Only issue is that it does NOT screw cut . But as I was given the machine it is perfect

also have a small Hobbymat (German) screw cuts nicely  but prob only has a 12" bed

my mate has a Myford ML7, really nice machine 

make sure that whatever you buy comes with as many extras as possible...because if it doesn't you will,end up buying, amongst other things,

collet chucks

4 jaw chucks

independent chucks

quick release tool post

milling vice

cutters

milling tools

varaible speed deive

digital,readouts

tool vices...the list never ends😂

 

I am after a small milling machine universal or Vertical , single phase. But all the ones I see are way too dear for my occasional use. I can set the Viceroy up for milling but it's a faff and limited in what it can do

so,if anyone knows of one going cheap please contact me

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18 hours ago, Diver One said:

I am after a small milling machine universal or Vertical , single phase.

I can’t seem to find a reasonably priced one either.  I’d quite like a Harrison vertical, to match my lathe (something about machines painted Ferguson grey from the 1950s…)

But If you think lathes are bad for nickel-and-diming you for accessories, just wait until you enter the world of mills!

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1 hour ago, udderlyoffroad said:

I can’t seem to find a reasonably priced one either.  I’d quite like a Harrison vertical, to match my lathe (something about machines painted Ferguson grey from the 1950s…)

But If you think lathes are bad for nickel-and-diming you for accessories, just wait until you enter the world of mills!

My mate has already opened that can of worms

DROs...XYZ

power feeds

rotary tables

vices

tooling

 

.....oh, and he has also rebuilt a Fergie

Edited by Diver One
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6 hours ago, udderlyoffroad said:

I can’t seem to find a reasonably priced one either.  I’d quite like a Harrison vertical, to match my lathe (something about machines painted Ferguson grey from the 1950s…)

But If you think lathes are bad for nickel-and-diming you for accessories, just wait until you enter the world of mills!

you would be amazed how much stuff gets thrown away by companies these days, a lot of bigger places simply bin stuff as they don't want manual machines because of health and safety and old guys finishing work so the younger lads can't run them.

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I think I need to do a bit more research, I need to find someone who uses one locally so I can see what they are all about. I’ve been looking on YouTube at videos of setting them up properly so that you don’t get any taper, I’m not sure I’ve the patience for the finer detail!! 

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2 hours ago, Medic1281 said:

I think I need to do a bit more research, I need to find someone who uses one locally so I can see what they are all about. I’ve been looking on YouTube at videos of setting them up properly so that you don’t get any taper, I’m not sure I’ve the patience for the finer detail!! 

have you seen your PM

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8 minutes ago, peck said:

have you seen your PM

Hi, I’ve had a couple of messages from members, however nothing from you. I’ve seen your earlier post, and thank you for the offer. I’m currently researching your lathe to gain a better understanding of it. It’s not a model I’m familiar with. 

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