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DUNKS

dri slide

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Posted (edited)

Hi does anyone use DRI SLIDE or any other dry moly product on their shotguns?

There is always the argument that grease attracts dust and dirt. turning into grinding paste, so has to be cleaned off after every outing

Oil however does not stay in place quite so well.

Dry moly seems to be the perfect answer But is it?

Your comments please. I know there are shotgun shooters on here who were shooting when Adam was a lad

Edited by DUNKS

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Posted (edited)

It's worth a try and see how it goes. 

I've tried wd40 dry lube PTFE, not too impressed with it. Starts off ok but does not last.

Also used graphite powder that went everywhere on firing g the gun,did t stick where I wanted it. Tried adding it some grease. Hot told on her it's a no-no on aluminium so stopped using it. 

I now use an American product called zero friction, little drop on rails and works great.

Edited by figgy

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Posted (edited)
15 minutes ago, ditchman said:

try mixing some moly grease with dry graphite...and use that

That's what dri slide is. In a very thin carrier which evaporates quite quickly.

Edited by DUNKS

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Steady as you go. In a former life I was the rigger on a small RAF development team and was doing a trial with a dry lubricant. Come the weekend our sooty took some home. He came in on Monday with his hand strapped up. He'd been playing with the lubricant and his shotgun. He thought he'd finished and put the gun down but then noticed it was smoking. Top lever over but it wouldn't open. Being a black belt Taekwondo chappy, he hit it damaging his hand but it did open although he reckoned that in another couple of seconds it would never have done so - ever again - apparently it was getting quite warm. He realised his mistake - in not ensuring that all of the existing oil/grease had not been removed and had reacted with the new and possibly with some pressure involved with the tight fit of the barrels to the action.

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Abbey Moly G-n paste. Molybdenum Disulphide, but thicker than grease. Designed for use in airguns, but good for other stuff too. 

Use sparingly though, could get sticky otherwise.

I've used the dry slide that you refer to, however, when it had evaporated, there didn't seem to be enough left to do the job. 

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See your point but anyone with a scrap of common would realise the idea of dry moly is that that's all you use. For it to work at all it has to be put on dry clean metal. Not mixed into a sludge.

I do hope this guy was not working on any of the fast jets my son flew.😀

1 minute ago, chrisv said:

Abbey Moly G-n paste. Molybdenum Disulphide, but thicker than grease. Designed for use in airguns, but good for other stuff too. 

Use sparingly though, could get sticky otherwise.

I've used the dry slide that you refer to, however, when it had evaporated, there didn't seem to be enough left to do the job. 

I see this too but it is supposed to be a microscopic film.

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6 minutes ago, DUNKS said:

See your point but anyone with a scrap of common would realise the idea of dry moly is that that's all you use. For it to work at all it has to be put on dry clean metal. Not mixed into a sludge.

I do hope this guy was not working on any of the fast jets my son flew.😀

I see this too but it is supposed to be a microscopic film.

To be fair, it was more a case of small amounts of residue in nooks and crannies. Had a chat with the MoD POL guy and he thought it might have been the carrier which was the problem.

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1 hour ago, wymberley said:

To be fair, it was more a case of small amounts of residue in nooks and crannies. Had a chat with the MoD POL guy and he thought it might have been the carrier which was the problem.

Could be of course but the carrier evaporates quickly.

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Some graphite and PTFE penetrating aerosols put graphite where you need it and it works but only bad thing about dri lubing is it lubes its not a protector of metal, you cant smudge it around on surfaces like oils  i like simple automatic transmission fluid it will pick up debris sure enough but its cheap and it protects and lubricates well enough.

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10 minutes ago, lancer425 said:

Some graphite and PTFE penetrating aerosols put graphite where you need it and it works but only bad thing about dri lubing is it lubes its not a protector of metal, you cant smudge it around on surfaces like oils  i like simple automatic transmission fluid it will pick up debris sure enough but its cheap and it protects and lubricates well enough.

Mixed with turpentine it's also the best penetrating oil there is.

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2 minutes ago, DUNKS said:

Mixed with turpentine it's also the best penetrating oil there is.

Thanks  i did not realise that. :good:

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31 minutes ago, lancer425 said:

Thanks  i did not realise that. :good:

I forgot it's also the main ingredient in "Ed's Red"  "Google"

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I use the fat from a pigs belly  ! This was recommended to me, many years ago,  by some young fella called Adam   ?

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Posted (edited)

The historic origin of dry lubes for pistols came about when American police started using autos and wearing them under jackets next to shirts, They needed the slides to be properly lubed because they obviously didn't want life threatening jams or malfunctions but didn't like getting the oil on their clothes. The revolvers they had used before weren't oily in the same way as an auto.

With a modern gun I prefer oil like 3 in 1 There is no functional advantage in dry lube as far as I can see and because most of it is imported it costs a fortune. Back in the pistol days it was an advantage if you were shooting practical or police pistol because even then the pistols came into contact with your clothes   

 

Edited by Vince Green

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Red devil grease. Designed for push bikes and the top slide of semi autos. Used 1 tube for years and years. Works a treat. Costs little. No fancy pants Teflon sprays or whatever else required. 

Not jammed my semi and not gunked up my ou. Stays wjwre yiu put it and resistant to tempreture. Get it online delivered from the comfort if your sofa. 

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