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Mitre joints 100% perfect?


mgsontour
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Hi everyone, I have a long standing problem of NEVER being able to get a 45 degree joint perfect on the odd occasion I need to make one around the house and garden. . . I know I can buy a mitre saw or block but they can't accommodate long cuts so have done them over the years by hand with a set-square and hand saw and seem to end up with close but not perfect so I've searched online and have seen one of these 

https://www.instructables.com/id/Angled-Plane-Guide-for-Mitre-Joints/

This has got me to thinking, I have a cordless electric planer ( https://www.aldi.co.uk/workzone-18v-cordless-planer/p/011919262369000 )and wondered how to make a guide like the above?

Thanks in advance for your help

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Use polyurethane glue, it fills the 'gaps'. Just make sure its clamped tight as the stuff pushes the join apart when it cures. Other than that, a double bevel sliding mitre saw. If your on a budget, the evolution rage does a 255mm blade i think and should be good for 9'' skirting board. 

And as winnie says above, what ever you use make sure its razor sharp

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Thanks for the answers, 9" mitre saw should cover it but how do I get it razor sharp?Can I not get a joint pretty close and then finish it off by hand to 100% perfection by means of some sort of slide thing where I can use a plane, file or sander? Thanks again

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PU glue does expand but there is no strength in the bits that expand and fill any gaps, in that respect there is no benefit from PU over PVA. In tests PU performed marginally better that PVA for end grain jointing and PVA outperformed PU for gluing along the grain. If you want to fill gaps and maintain joint strength then you need an epoxy really.The strongest joint will be the one where the faces match exactly. 

If you are cutting mitres by hand and want fine tolerance you need a really steady bench/vice to hold your workpiece, a black and decker workmate for example won't really do it, some decent F clamps to hold it in place on a solid surface help. 

Also you won't ever get a really clean cut with a panel saw, a nice fine tooth tenon saw works for me. It's either that or cut back from the line and pare up to it with a sharp chisel or block plane.

It depends on what quality of joint you are looking for but if you are pretty close already you might just want to get a bit of practice on some off cuts before you go to the real thing, especially if it's something you don't do often. 

7 minutes ago, TIGHTCHOKE said:

Night School and learn how to do the joints.

yeah and this helps. 

There is no real quick fix. Even if you buy a machine, they don't really give you perfect results straight out of the box, they need a bit of time spent setting them up, getting them square etc

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  • 2 weeks later...
On ‎01‎/‎04‎/‎2019 at 20:41, winnie&bezza said:

If you mean doing a long mitre ( how long?) then you really need to know what you are doing to get a good joint. You need  accurate/sharp tooling to get good results and know how to use them. I mean those results are pretty shocking. 

trade secret mate, don't tell em!:lol:

in all honesty though, I rarely come across a perfect 90 degree corner in a house, they're usually a bit splayed as well thanks to the plasterer leaving a nice bell drip at the foot of the board, I've got a large clamping mitre block that takes up to 8" board which helps, but if it's a nice piece that's just being oiled or stained then the chop saw comes out

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Learn to measure and layout angles then cut straight as you can, either sand or knife the joint to get it as near perfect as you can. By knife I mean clamp the joints together at the correct angle and cut down through the middle of the joint. This should give a good joint.

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