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B2 refurb


Blackbriar
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So, I bought this cheaply, with a view to making improvements.

The engineering and standard of finish are what you'd expect, but this old girl had had a rough life !

First off, I decided to ignore this......

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The stock.was covered I whatever grade of industrial tarmac SMK use, and had a few drinks.

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The metalwork showed some wear and rust, but at least it hadn't penetrated.......

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After stripping, it was clear that there wasn't a drop of lube to be seen anywhere !1727731350_2019-05-2415_42_26.jpg.a9a1528b99b931ca3b2584e14ddfd031.jpg

And the piston had signs of wear........

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So, yesterday, I applied nearly a whole bottle of paint stripper to the B2 (what on earth do SMK use ?!?). A couple of hours later, I scraped it off and set about getting it back to the wood. It was almost dark when I'd got this far.........

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Many packets of sandpaper used, but I had to resort to the Dremel to get the varnish out of the butt grooves..........

I haven't decided on the finish - light or dark ? ( Myself, I think light, but anyone have any thoughts?)

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50 minutes ago, Blackbriar said:

Maybe not the most challenging project, but what engineering I learnt was picked up 900feet underground.

I am a fully skilled Midlands engineer.......if at first you don't succeed, find a bigger hammer !

well you are like the rest of us then................measure it with a micrometer.............mark it with a chalk...........cut it with a bloody axe....:lol:

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you have got to laugh...................but i rekon if you polish the chamber and all the other bits and chamfer the delivery port out...choose the right spring and seal......you might get it shooting sweet.....its got all the right simple bits to it

im watching this thread..:good:

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14 hours ago, bruno22rf said:

NEVER use a Dremil to get varnish out of your Butt groove! Love the turning on the outside of the cylinder - feedrate of about .5mm/rev at a guess.

Why is that section done like that ? Why isn't the whole cylinder smooth ?

(I genuinely have no idea.)

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17 hours ago, ditchman said:

you have got to laugh...................but i rekon if you polish the chamber and all the other bits and chamfer the delivery port out...choose the right spring and seal......you might get it shooting sweet.....its got all the right simple bits to it

im watching this thread..:good:

Which is exactly why I chose to start with a B2.

I've got a mate who's very good and always did repairs and service for me, but we moved away, so I can't call on his expertise easily, hence me trying to learn to do things for myself.

I'm not planning on buying parts, just refurbing as best I can.

Edited by Blackbriar
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On 26/05/2019 at 15:06, Blackbriar said:

Which is exactly why I chose to start with a B2.

I've got a mate who's very good and always did repairs and service for me, but we moved away, so I can't call on his expertise easily, hence me trying to learn to do things for myself.

I'm not planning on buying parts, just refurbing as best I can.

you are going to have to buy a new seal and piston head.....emery paper...wooden dowl to wrap the paper around to start to smooth out the bore of the compression chamber....petrol to lubricate it or desiel..............

you cant stain that filler on the wood so you need to spray it ...with..primer topcoat...sealer....................

you will have to spend something...:hmm:

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11 hours ago, ditchman said:

you are going to have to buy a new seal and piston head.....emery paper...wooden dowl to wrap the paper around to start to smooth out the bore of the compression chamber....petrol to lubricate it or desiel..............

you cant stain that filler on the wood so you need to spray it ...with..primer topcoat...sealer....................

you will have to spend something...:hmm:

I can't get the piston head off - I've tried, but the screw refuses to shift. Petrol to lube ? A gallon of petrol is more than it's worth !

A rattle can paint job is definitely the way forward for the stock........."tactical" black. And a bottle of cold blue to touch up, but that's about all I'm prepared to do on a low-end model like this.

Edited by Blackbriar
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5 minutes ago, Blackbriar said:

I can't get the piston head off - I've tried, but the screw refuses to shift. Petrol to lube ? A gallon of petrol is more than it's worth !

A rattle can paint job is definitely the way forward for the stock........."tactical" black. And a bottle of cold blue to touch up, but that's about all I'm prepared to do on a low-end model like this.

hello, if you cannot undo the screw just give the piston a good clean up and internals and use appropriate grease, i would change that metal top hat ( tube thingy) to a delrin one, Nick at tin bum tuning can make you one, and will make it smoother to shoot.  

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1 hour ago, oldypigeonpopper said:

hello, if you cannot undo the screw just give the piston a good clean up and internals and use appropriate grease, i would change that metal top hat ( tube thingy) to a delrin one, Nick at tin bum tuning can make you one, and will make it smoother to shoot.  

I've already put my Dremel in a vice and gently used a buffing wheel to clean the piston up, with some success. I've also used machine oil and very fine steel wool to clean up the metalwork, also with some success, but the blueing will need a little touch up, I think. I ran a dry mop through the barrel, and removed heaps of horrid crud.

I'll put some more pix up, but I want to finish the wood first (today, unless the good Lady finds another list of things that simply must be done today !)

1 hour ago, strimmer_13 said:

No no no I wanna see a shortened barrel, silencer, brass trigger guard, fettled trigger, 👍

Dont tease me like this 😅

A brass trigger guard would cost more than the gun is worth !

I started this as a pennies project.

Edited by Blackbriar
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1 hour ago, ditchman said:

you need to get that head off............cause what ever you spend all your time on will ammont to naught...if the head and seal are the same......

I'll keep trying. It won't just unscrew (naturally !). I've tried tapping a driver on and a dose of WD40........nothing. Any ideas ?

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11 minutes ago, Blackbriar said:

I'll keep trying. It won't just unscrew (naturally !). I've tried tapping a driver on and a dose of WD40........nothing. Any ideas ?

boil it in water then have a go.........i take it you have a screw at the end of the head recessed.............not from the side of the head....take a couple of pics...

then put it in a vice abd use an impact screwdriver.............

a new head and seal is only £14 quid............

Edited by ditchman
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I've managed to clean the circumference of the position up a bit............the seal end isn't too attractive, though !

And you can see where I've tried to get the holding screw out..........and it looks like someone before me had the same trouble.

Edited by Blackbriar
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it is proberly held in with locktite...........so it needs to be well heated up in boiling water i rekon ...or move away the leather until the screw is proud   stick it in a vice and turn the body....boiling it will soften the leather up to allow you to do this...and it will soften the locktite...........

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hello, as Simon said maybe some boiling water, if it were me i would check if can buy a new piston seal kit and cut old one off exposing the screw so you can see if a bit of heat (blow torch might help, i do not remember ever having problems getting seals of pistons, but they were old type air rifles with screw sets  

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