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125 yard zero - HMR


Major Sharpe
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I have a Tikka 17 HMR which is zeroed at 100 yards and was wondering if a zero at 125 yards would give a practical Point Blank Range.

I get 30 yards to 115 yards with a 100 yard zero. I was told that a 125 yard zero would give something like 12 yards to 140 yards.

Anyone any thoughts on this?

 

 

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Dont know about 12 yards TBH , 20 if you keep your scope as low as possible, say 1.5 inch.

The problem is , youre shooting an inch high between 60 and 100, which isnt the end of the world if you know your range to target.

100 yards is your best all rounder in my opinion, unless youre going out past 120 regularly.

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I cant give you the exact figures that you require, but assuming a 17 grain polymer bullet  with a sight line  1.5" above the centre line will,  if sighted in at 125 yds,  be -0.11" at 25 yards and -1.46" at 150 yards.  The intermediate ranges will produce at 50 yards +0.65", at 75 yds +0.96" and at 100 yards +0.78".

These figures have been lifted from J E Houses, Gun Digest on the .22 rimfire.

Hope they help

FB

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1 hour ago, Scully said:

If you feel there's something you can't get closer to than 140 yds, then go for it. 

It's not the far distance so much as the closer stuff.  I have missed seemingly easy shots when a rabbit has appear at say 20 yards.

 

100 yards is the furthest distance I regularly shoot at.

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Just now, Major Sharpe said:

It's not the far distance so much as the closer stuff.  I have missed seemingly easy shots when a rabbit has appear at say 20 yards.

 

100 yards is the furthest distance I regularly shoot at.

Then keep your hundred yard zero and learn the holdovers for the close shots, its all about scope height , as the lower it is the less you need at the close in ranges.

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2 minutes ago, Rewulf said:

Then keep your hundred yard zero and learn the holdovers for the close shots, its all about scope height , as the lower it is the less you need at the close in ranges.

yes I think you right, I put out some targets and work it out.

 

Thank you.

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Just now, Major Sharpe said:

yes I think you right, I put out some targets and work it out.

 

Thank you.

Ill give you a rough idea.

If your scopes centreline is at 1.5 inch off the centreline of the barrel (Id be surprised if its any less)  at 100 yard zero, the bullets trajectory should be dead on at 40 yards too.
So you could say that at roughly 20 yards its .75 inch under.

At 2 inch off the centre line the 'crossover is 45 yards, and should be around 1 inch at 22.5 yards.

Hope this helps.

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2 minutes ago, Rewulf said:

Ill give you a rough idea.

If your scopes centreline is at 1.5 inch off the centreline of the barrel (Id be surprised if its any less)  at 100 yard zero, the bullets trajectory should be dead on at 40 yards too.
So you could say that at roughly 20 yards its .75 inch under.

At 2 inch off the centre line the 'crossover is 45 yards, and should be around 1 inch at 22.5 yards.

Hope this helps.

Thank you very much, very helpful

 

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28 minutes ago, Major Sharpe said:

It's not the far distance so much as the closer stuff.  I have missed seemingly easy shots when a rabbit has appear at say 20 yards.

 

100 yards is the furthest distance I regularly shoot at.

I had a chart with the comparable trajectories of all the rf cartridges somewhere, showing the most practical zero for each cartridge. It was a very handy thing to have; I’m sure there must be one to be found on the web. 

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Here is the info i need 

With an average scope hight of 1.7 inches 

Zeros of 100 .110 .120 .130 yds 

And the trajectory in inches 

IMG_20190612_175101.jpg

Personally id zero at 110 yds 

Meaning your pb range is 20  to 130 yds 

With little risk of going over the top of a rabbit head at 75 yds. 

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As most of the places I shoot are small fields or undulating land, shooting from a quiet petrol 4WD that gets me in to about 50 yards of rabbits, I prefer a 90 yard zero so I just point and shoot without even thinking about holdover or under.

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If your happy with a 1.5 inch kill zone .so 3/4 up and 3/4 down (perfect for body shots on rabbits )

Then a 120 yd zero would be ideal and there is even a nice hawke ret that works out nicely in 25 yd increments 

 

IMG_20190612_182000.jpg

IMG_20190612_181942.jpg

Gets you pbr from 20 to 135 yds before you have to think about  any hold over or under. 

Just aim for  the boiler room area. And bang down she goes .

Edited by Ultrastu
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get out into the field with some paper targets from 50yds to 150yds + at 20yrd intervals and see in real times what the actual drops will be. 

keep the targets, keep notes and practice at different ranges. 

 

Apps are OK (I use them out to 800yds) put dont rely on them all to be MOR (minute of rabbit) most will need tweaking one way or another. 

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4 hours ago, Ultrastu said:

If your happy with a 1.5 inch kill zone .so 3/4 up and 3/4 down (perfect for body shots on rabbits )

Then a 20 yd zero would be ideal and there is even a nice hawke ret that works out nicely in 25 yd increments 

 

IMG_20190612_182000.jpg

IMG_20190612_181942.jpg

Gets you pbr from 20 to 135 yds before you have to think about  any hold over or under. 

Just aim for  the boiler room area. And bang down she goes .

Thank you for this.

I opted to zero at 120 yards, then set out paper targets to check the drop. The PBR you quoted was spot on.

Also I used to zero from a makeshift folding bench (workmate and a piece of ply) and a folding chair, but recently came across an article that said, if you shoot from sticks, zero from sticks, don't expect a bench zero to be the same when using sticks.

So tonight, I zeroed from my trigger sticks and got to say, I'm pleased with the result. 

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