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Browning Maxus size shells (Help)


LHallMaxus
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Hi,

Is it brand new? I have two maxus and have bedded them both in with cartridges that have a bit of thump in them. My personal choice is lyevale power reds. Once run in I have cycled all different sizes and loads and both have never missed a beat. I have used eley select and they broke clays the same as any other cartridges, but they were very dirty and the gas system seemed to be heavily soiled (more than usual) in my opinion. I have had other semi autos that were very fussy on loads and sizes but the maxus is pretty good. The speed load function is really slick, once you get to grips with it. 

All the best

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First thing strip it and clean it with a degreaser to remove all the preservation wax and grease.

Relube and reassemble it.  Get a few boxes of some heavy and fast game loads and shoot them.  It should then cycle your eley carts with no problems.

Some will cycle the eley from the box others won't. Is your gun 3" or 3 1/2" chamber ?

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31 minutes ago, Taileron said:

Hi,

Is it brand new? I have two maxus and have bedded them both in with cartridges that have a bit of thump in them. My personal choice is lyevale power reds. Once run in I have cycled all different sizes and loads and both have never missed a beat. I have used eley select and they broke clays the same as any other cartridges, but they were very dirty and the gas system seemed to be heavily soiled (more than usual) in my opinion. I have had other semi autos that were very fussy on loads and sizes but the maxus is pretty good. The speed load function is really slick, once you get to grips with it. 

All the best

 

Yeah brand new ain’t put anything through it yet. Tbh I didn’t know any different I thought they would have known in the shop it was only when I got home and open it up and see it said 2 1/2 I realised. I also bought 36g 3” and 42 3/2” which should be fine shouldn’t they? Do you reckon I should take the eleys back and swap for some 2 3/4s

2 minutes ago, figgy said:

First thing strip it and clean it with a degreaser to remove all the preservation wax and grease.

Relube and reassemble it.  Get a few boxes of some heavy and fast game loads and shoot them.  It should then cycle your eley carts with no problems.

Some will cycle the eley from the box others won't. Is your gun 3" or 3 1/2" chamber ?

3 1/2 inch chamber mate I’ve got a few odd 32 gram cartridges indoors shall I put some of them through first? Would it matter using them at a clay range though as thats the first places I’m going to be using it Tuesday 

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23 hours ago, TIGHTCHOKE said:

Most Semi-auto's are designed to work with 70mm shells!

 

15 hours ago, MrPhantom said:

The obvious answer is to try them and swap them if you have issues. My Maxus was fussy with anything less than 70mm. 

 

Yeah I did read that. I’m just going to swap them over least that way there shouldn’t be any problems especially as it’s first time using it.

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Guest cookoff013

When you do a strip and re-lube, dont forget to re lube the return spring and follower in the stock.its the thing that pushes the bolt closed. When automatics fire, and thebolt opens, the return spring and follower compress and store energy, then release it returning the bolt to close the chamber. This action needs to be smooth. Because it probably is the longest moving action part. The movement back and forward needs to be smooth.oil it regular, dont over do it though or the stock can be damaged.

I have used anything from 3.1 oil, benelli oil, and in a pinch. Motor oil.

You might want to get a oil dropper long tube thing

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Cookoff013 I think motor engine oil is the best lube. It does not gum up and is designed to take heat and high friction forces. So a fast moving spring under load is it's ideal. 

3 in 1 I think is a bit thin though I also used in the past as better than none.

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Guest cookoff013

i`ve used anything i can get my hands on, i used motor oil alot because i have a few gallons of it. 

its the parts thats most neglected but actually does most the traveling. funny eh? the spring and follower probably are the key parts of bolt speed.

on the benelli, the rotary head takes a bit of energy, then the return and follower starts to move. this needs to obviously give enough energy / force to compress the innertia spring then to push spring and follower, transfering that energy into the return spring. 

on the gas system, it just needs gas to the gas ports to overcome the spring and follower, as soon as the spring is compressed it cant store any more energy,

both have different needs, innertia needs speed to run, gas guns need (or should have) gas at the ports, although there are some modern changes, light / heavy pistons etc.

the innertia system tends to just needs power, too little recoil, and the innertia spring doesnt have the ennergy applied to ovecome the return spring and follower. 

get em all the time with my monty, go to 14oofps / 24g minimum and it is rock solid. i wouldnt bother with subsonics, although i havent tried 42g subs (pump only)

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3 hours ago, figgy said:

Cookoff013 I think motor engine oil is the best lube. It does not gum up and is designed to take heat and high friction forces. So a fast moving spring under load is it's ideal. 

3 in 1 I think is a bit thin though I also used in the past as better than none.

Figgy, I've run all my autos on Fully Synthetic Motor oil, you can achieve a nice thin coating with it, it sticks to all the surfaces, they run well on it. If found that once stripped and relubed with Motor Oil they sound quieter when cycling and feel much smoother. It's great stuff.

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Cookoff013 your subs being 42g should have enough inertia to cycle the Benelli.  The required inertia is achieved via speed of projectile on firing or the weight of said projectile as you also know. I think your 42g will work fine.

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