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Chaz25

BSA super sport SE carbine

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Had the gun for a little while, got it second hand, it was a .177 with a .25 barrel put on and some titan internals so I was told, it looked to have been done well enough but was not fully finished in my thinking, the guns weight and length was not to my liking and it was suffering creep so after a strip I noted the problems, but first thing was to get the main mod's done, sort of rough it out then start to refine it so it was open up the transfer port and cut and crown the barrel

 

48214007736_57c688cb49_z.jpg

17inc down to 10inc

48214014501_138e62bea8_z.jpg

Sorry not the best picture but I will show the process in detain (and with better pictures!) if any would like to know about such things?

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My supersport in. 25 was shortened and had a silencer fitted when I bought it, it looked just like the mk1 lightning. 

It was a good gun but extremely pellet fussy, only reason I sold it. 

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18 minutes ago, washerboy said:

My supersport in. 25 was shortened and had a silencer fitted when I bought it, it looked just like the mk1 lightning. 

It was a good gun but extremely pellet fussy, only reason I sold it. 

As it is this one likes heavy and snug pellets

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1 hour ago, Arron yeates said:

Just curious to whether the end of this barrel may have been tapered for accuracy?and if so now it wont shoot well?

No choke as far as I know on these type of BSA barrels and it shoots fine so I guess that proves it! :)

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58 minutes ago, Arron yeates said:

Sorry i meant choked lol. Long week. Ah thats fair. I like the look of this with the barrel chopped looks great

:) no worry's dude! I got your meaning ! Yeh you know you got to love the look and handling of a carbine, cocking however not so easy, but I've been shopping so that will be sorted soon!

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Arron you got me thinking about the way BSA do there barrels there cold hammed on tapered mandrels so  that would have a choke effect but I guess the taper runs from breach to muzzle? so at a 10 inc cut an crown a slight choke would still be present?

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8 hours ago, Chaz25 said:

Arron you got me thinking about the way BSA do there barrels there cold hammed on tapered mandrels so  that would have a choke effect but I guess the taper runs from breach to muzzle? so at a 10 inc cut an crown a slight choke would still be present?

Id say yes but when i pull my barrel through it feels loose untill i get to about 3 inches from the muzzle and thats on the ultra se barrel thats a carbine. STU may correct me but i think its a 12" barrel

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Though I would run a pellet up the bore an gauge the effect, once the pellet is imprinted the stiction feels about the same all the way through and the pellet makes a full half rotation  and at 10m I can keep my shots within a 50 pence piece so for a gun not truly bedded I'll take that as good.

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On 07/07/2019 at 18:27, Chaz25 said:

Though I would run a pellet up the bore an gauge the effect, once the pellet is imprinted the stiction feels about the same all the way through and the pellet makes a full half rotation  and at 10m I can keep my shots within a 50 pence piece so for a gun not truly bedded I'll take that as good.

Are you in the UK mate? 

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On ‎09‎/‎07‎/‎2019 at 11:16, Arron yeates said:

Are you in the UK mate? 

Yes Somerset

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A bit of progress,

48258661957_e6bfcf2676_z.jpg

Front guard screw had striped out the stock so made a repair plus you can see the main stock screw hole I closed up with a leather bush.

48258658537_5b5ceb1af8_z.jpg

I now have a barrel weight, and new trigger group, the old one was fine but the end cap was a bit rough and the anti bear trap components no longer present, the new one was very cheap so made sense to buy the whole thing, there is also a new seal to fit  and next to it a little unit I made for cutting the transfer port, it keeps the bit true and you can cut by hand , plus I'm using a longer main stock screw.

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2 hours ago, Chaz25 said:

A bit of progress,

48258661957_e6bfcf2676_z.jpg

Front guard screw had striped out the stock so made a repair plus you can see the main stock screw hole I closed up with a leather bush.

48258658537_5b5ceb1af8_z.jpg

I now have a barrel weight, and new trigger group, the old one was fine but the end cap was a bit rough and the anti bear trap components no longer present, the new one was very cheap so made sense to buy the whole thing, there is also a new seal to fit  and next to it a little unit I made for cutting the transfer port, it keeps the bit true and you can cut by hand , plus I'm using a longer main stock screw.

Looking sweet that mate. Keep the pics comming. Reason i asked is to find out about your barrel. Im at sandwell field sports saturday picking up my sfs Imp from service. I can ask Tony if ud like. If a barrel is chocked and you were to shoten the barrel id presume you would normally cut from the breach end?

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Arron yeates said:

Looking sweet that mate. Keep the pics comming. Reason i asked is to find out about your barrel. Im at sandwell field sports saturday picking up my sfs Imp from service. I can ask Tony if ud like. If a barrel is chocked and you were to shoten the barrel id presume you would normally cut from the breach end?

Very hard cutting from the breach with a lot of spring guns, with the brake type you have the pivot block, in some older guns it was cross pinned or press fit and with the BSA there wielded I've only done three carbines with all I had to just cut an crown, but ask Tony anyhow, the thing I would like to know is when BSA do factory carbine barrels do they change the rifling twist rate and what is it?

Edited by Chaz25

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Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, Chaz25 said:

Very hard cutting from the breach with a lot of spring guns, with the brake type you have the pivot block, in some older guns it was cross pinned or press fit and with the BSA there wielded I've only done three carbines with all I had to just cut an crown, but ask Tony anyhow, the thing I would like to know is when BSA do factory carbine barrels do they change the rifling twist rate and what is it?

Yeah ill ask him whilst im there. Twist rate is a good question tbf. As if the power or twist rate is wrongonce modified then accuracy is a no go?

Edited by Arron yeates

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On ‎12‎/‎07‎/‎2019 at 06:33, Arron yeates said:

Yeah ill ask him whilst im there. Twist rate is a good question tbf. As if the power or twist rate is wrongonce modified then accuracy is a no go?

Accuracy with spring guns as with them all comes from quite a few factors, you would want the power plant to be consistent  so when tuning I try to keep it dry or use a very non energetic lube so there is little fuel burn, next is good seals and then the barrel if its as I have done and cut an crowned there is always a chance you have gone too far, so the best you can do is make the crowning good as possible, and do this first so you can see if its working or not, then the transfer port, if all looks to be working as you wanted then you can trim it with the spring pre-load and at last a good energetic lube and it go's without saying same good quality pellet through out your testing.

Ho bit of an update! just striped it down and broke all the sharp edges with a file and paper, and making a long shafted cutting stone so I can chamfer the transfer port from the piston side.

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I picked my rifle up today from SFS, i did ask about the barrel Tony said that the spring powerd air rifles dint have a chocked barrel however the pcp's do. All springers are made out of the uk where as the pcps are made from the birmingham factory. I actually forgot to ask about the twist rate though so i cant advise on this. However he may be able to help you if you call the shop hes very knowagable.

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Interesting project. I note that the trigger assembly is the same as on my BSA Meteor Mk 7. Same issue with trigger creep which I cured by using a longer set screw that I had to progressively shorten. I still have to find time to fettle it, but it looks like I will be able to dismantle the gun, unusually, from the barrel end as it has a cross pin behind the barrel cocking bolt and the barrel end of the compression tube has a plastic end stop with a inserted transfer port. I am guessing that they use the same internals and change the transfer port depending on the calibre barrel chosen. The Mk 7 is apparently the last of the Meteors but it is a full powered rifle.

Keep the pics coming.

FB

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3 hours ago, Arron yeates said:

I picked my rifle up today from SFS, i did ask about the barrel Tony said that the spring powerd air rifles dint have a chocked barrel however the pcp's do. All springers are made out of the uk where as the pcps are made from the birmingham factory. I actually forgot to ask about the twist rate though so i cant advise on this. However he may be able to help you if you call the shop hes very knowagable.

There done on tapered mandrels by gamo I suspect,  the twist rate would be the standard 1 in 16 so I have a full half turn and a slight taper at 10inch and from my tests the groups look fair, and with it being .25 the useful range will be short, anyhow so far so good!...........

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3 hours ago, Flyboy1950 said:

Interesting project. I note that the trigger assembly is the same as on my BSA Meteor Mk 7. Same issue with trigger creep which I cured by using a longer set screw that I had to progressively shorten. I still have to find time to fettle it, but it looks like I will be able to dismantle the gun, unusually, from the barrel end as it has a cross pin behind the barrel cocking bolt and the barrel end of the compression tube has a plastic end stop with a inserted transfer port. I am guessing that they use the same internals and change the transfer port depending on the calibre barrel chosen. The Mk 7 is apparently the last of the Meteors but it is a full powered rifle.

Keep the pics coming.

FB

Funny thing about the transfer port, my mates lighting GRT and my super both had the same port size so from 177 to 22 they make no changes, with the .25 and short barrel I wanted a more rapid energy dump and bleed down so I opened up the port size.

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48316387307_4c16122f2b_z.jpg

Back together! Now down to the fine tune of the spring pre-load and the trigger plus a few more little things, so the run down on the work would be this;

Barrel cut and crowned at 10inc

BSA barrel weight fitter giving a 11.5 OA barrel

New piston seal (and all sharp edges removed on cylinder)

Titan spring and guide (guide is damaged at the back so a bit more work here!)

5mm transfer

enforced main stock screw

stock repaired for front guard screw fitment

Over all I'm pleased, the balance is more to my liking the recoil I'm still working on and the gun shoots fairly well.

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