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New toy advice


Davetyler
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Well after a second of thinking i decided i needed a new toy, semi auto for peanuts for a winter hide gun. Soo

I Bought a cheap hatsan escort that was less than i paid for hmr bullets i havent fired it yet the local rfd told me it was a rough and ready gun and if was good to shoot. With a month warranty with it i thought what the heck and buy it.

So i was wandering if any of you guys have any tips on how to treat it, i never owned a semi auto before so i dont know if i strip ot down after an outing or leave it and just do the barrel. I have been brought up to look after my guns bit wondered with a semi auto.

Another is it only come with 1 choke 1/4 what chokes fit these guns i dont know if different chokes fit different guns. I quite like the look of extended chokes but dont want to pay more than the gun is worth for chokes. Soon as i find out what chokes fit i will put a wanted add up.

Thanks 

Dave 

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I also went over to the darkside and bought a Winchester semi auto for the huge amount of £50, I admit that I do like shooting it but I do clean it after every time using it as there is a lot of residue from the cartridges, once your used to taking it apart it don't take long to clean it. 

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I was thinking that if i cleaned after out with it it would shoot like out of the box. I have only cleaned my 22 rf once in the 6 month of owning it but my 17hmr gets a clean all the time if i shoot 1 or 50 bullets i like to keep it clean. 

Does anyone know about chokes for it? 

Thanks for the reply guys 

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8 hours ago, Davetyler said:

So i was wandering if any of you guys have any tips on how to treat it, i never owned a semi auto before so i dont know if i strip ot down after an outing or leave it and just do the barrel. I have been brought up to look after my guns bit wondered with a semi auto.

 

Welcome to the Hatsan club! We've prepared the wards and said the sacred words so hopefully the "you should have just spent a grand and got a Beretta" gang stay away.

I've been meaning for ages to ask quite what this forum thinks dirty is when they say "keep your semi auto clean and it'll run fine". I give mine a full going over after each outing, cleaning it down with a generic bore cleaner and then giving it a rub with Froglube CLP to either get any tough bits (usually the bolt face) and to keep it nicely lubed. My Hatsan had never fluffed a shot, so as an experiment I ran 100 21g carts through it from clean. Two fail to ejects out of 100 later and I ran it for 900 more on the usual 28g with no issues at all. One hundred more 21g produced 2 more failure to ejects and I stopped and cleaned it again. Basically if you keep the gas port in the barrel remotely clean, and make sure the O-ring is clean (spares on links below and Ebay) and not degraded then I suspect you'll have few issues. Biggest challenge I've had is running 67 or 65mm rounds, and usually then if only loading 3 (which I don't do at a clay ground). Treat it with as much love as you feel you need to for the price you paid, but know a bit of TLC should guarantee some sense of reliability.

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Another is it only come with 1 choke 1/4 what chokes fit these guns i dont know if different chokes fit different guns. I quite like the look of extended chokes but dont want to pay more than the gun is worth for chokes. Soon as i find out what chokes fit i will put a wanted add up.

Hatsans, to my knowledge, come with either V1, V2, or V3 chokes. The early guns tend to be V1 or V2, and the newer ones (with the bolt release in the loading gate) come with V3. That's certainly not gospel, just what I think I've pieced together. The chokes are all different, just to be a pain. Airgunspares has all 3 versions (Dauntsey Guns have them too) and has a nice little "*** do I have" guide:

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To tell the difference between the different versions of choke all you need to do is check the thread. If the thread is at the muzzle end of the choke it is a V1 (For these chokes please see item E6 V1) 
If the thread is at the bottom of the choke (chamber end) it is either a V2 or V3 choke. These versions do not interchange as the thread is different. 
To tell the difference between a V2 and V3 you should look at the side of the choke you have. If it is stamped V3 then look at the Item E8 V3. However if it is stamped V2 or has nothing stamped on it then it will more than likely be a V2 choke.

You'll see that V2 and V3 come in flush or extended, and that V1 are flush only. Of the three, I only know the following compatibility:

I had a quick google and couldn't see anything on V2 thread chokes but you might with a bit of persistence.

Enjoy the gun!

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I only shoot semi automatics now due to a knackered neck and I have owned quite a few over the years. I really rate Hatsan as a rough gun, the spares are easy to come by and the engineering is spot on for the price point, in my opinion.

Give it a thorough clean paying particular attention to the gas parts and piston seals. When you drop out the trigger group be careful that the hammer spring does not fly out and whack you in the eye. If it does, there are loads of YouTube videos to put it back in ( the spring, not the eyeball😂)

I always give my gas guns a good clean after every use, however I don’t strip the inertia guns down to the same extent as I don’t feel they need it ( just a basic barrel clean )

I have tried all manner of carts and my personal choice for all of them is Lyevale power reds, good amount of whack, 27 g, plastic, good price point. The only gun I own which seems to be able to cycle anything is the Maxus, I have managed to get that to cycle a 24g load, brilliant thing it is.

I think the importers are Edgar Brothers, I have dealt with them in the past and they were sound, they may be able to help with chokes. All of my guns have extended chokes as I whacked the barrel of my 525 when it fell out of my slip ( the stitching had split and it just dropped straight out onto the floor ) and the expense of that repair was a lesson learned, particularly for rough shooting.

All the best.

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Thanks for the info guys i stripped it down and noticed it was a bit dirty so i cleaned it and when i looked at the instructions ot says it has a seal above the piston, a 416 or something. Mine didnt have a seal on it and fired 10 or so rounds through it yesterday and no problem with 30g 6s

 Do i need to get a seal or can it be used without? 

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52 minutes ago, Davetyler said:

 

 Do i need to get a seal or can it be used without? 

Yes, it needs the piston seal. Give Edgar’s a bell, they will ask you for the serial No and identify the particular model. The new ones come with spares, if memory serves they are a couple of quid.

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ive got one only prob ive had with it is it dosent like 65mm long catridges 2 in it are fine but if you load it with 3 after the firs shot they jammed up ,was looking for internal chokes for mine rther than the external owns fitted ,Dauntsey guns have a set for £54 so I don't expect extended ones to cost the earth, only cleaned once since I had it piston had a bit off crud on it which I cleaned off with a bit of scotch bright also smeared everything with motor oil as it doesn't burn off as quickly as gun oil

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Have a look online I'm sure you can buy the seals from elsewhere cheaply. They're only a standard o ring 22mm x 2mm, you can buy heat resistant ones that may last longer.

Treat rough and abuse it, it is a hide gun for winter. Can't beat a beater of a gun you can just use and not care about.

Edited by figgy
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Run it on 70mm long carts, clean the barrel when you like but do clean the gas parts. all semi' s love a wipe over the moving parts with an oily cloth. That does not mean dripping wet, just a wipe. The o ring is a pain so grab a few for spares and have 1 in the cart bag "Just in case". 

2 friends have 1 each and neither have given any trouble and they treat them quite rough, I quite like them myself but have a semi auto already that does the job, although I've not been out lately due to work. 

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Thanks gc, i was thinking of how these things work 🥴 if a seal sits on top of the piston when building it up, isnt that goin to be infront of the gas ports? Why would there be a seal in that place, we had this discussion on sunday and a sx3 win and browning maxus has seals on the other side of the ports. We can get our head on the other 2 guns to get as much gas back to the piston as possible but hatsan got our brains rattling a little bit. 

Any info on that gents? 

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42 minutes ago, Davetyler said:

Tt, thats the reason i got it, it was cool pulling the trigger as fast as i can and 3 shots. It will put a smile on anyones face that shoots but like you said, need to stock up on ammo and a big magnet to pick empties up

5 is more fun ha ha :) . Limited on usage tho . Wish is was ok for water fowl 

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Don't overthink the seal, just replace it. Lube the rails and recoil spring and enjoy shooting it. Just be aware of muzzle rise when blasting off three fast as you can. Dave that choke looks first generation, the gen2 gen3 have the threads at the opposite end and is remchoke by info online.

Edited by figgy
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10 hours ago, Davetyler said:

Thanks for the info figgy, i might take it a local shop and see what they say and see what fits

As with figgy and what I have in my box that very much appears to be a V1. Start with a something Mobil which is what the Teague I use with mine is threaded for. Should be pretty clear to tell. 

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On 28/08/2019 at 18:41, Davetyler said:

Thanks gc, i was thinking of how these things work 🥴 if a seal sits on top of the piston when building it up, isnt that goin to be infront of the gas ports? Why would there be a seal in that place, we had this discussion on sunday and a sx3 win and browning maxus has seals on the other side of the ports. We can get our head on the other 2 guns to get as much gas back to the piston as possible but hatsan got our brains rattling a little bit. 

Any info on that gents? 

Put the O ring on after the piston before the barrel. The ring sits in front of the gas ports when the barrel is in place so the gas can only go backwards to the piston.

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