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alan123shooting

New case reline

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You now need to prepare the leather for gluing. The under side of the leather needs keyed so the glue adheres to the leather. Use the  sand paper to key the leather ,  wipe the dust away 

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Edited by alan123shooting

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Before you apply the glue the sections which form the loops have to have the edges finished as it is a lot easier to do before the handle is glued . The edge finish is a applied using a small bulldog clip with some folded felt or a dauber 

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Edited by alan123shooting

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Edge finish applied

 

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Then  rub the edge slicker along applied area this rounds the edges and smooths the fibres 

Edited by alan123shooting

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Now it time to glue everything together for stitching. Apply the contact adhesive to the roughed area, except for the loop section leave it until it’s touch dry. thread on one of the D rings fold over the section with the end skived on the top surface make sure edges line up as you get one bite at the cherry as it will stick on contact. 

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Fold over

Fold over

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Edited by alan123shooting

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Key that surface up to the length of the fold over, apply the adhesive leave until touch dry  then add the second D ring and fold over. The

handle is now ready for stitching 

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Ready for stitching 

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Edited by alan123shooting

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This is where stitching clam is used to hold the work, however there are numerous photos on YouTube on how to stitch I will also give a name of a very good book at the end of the thread which shows how to stitch and how to make various leather goods  

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Completed stitched handle 

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The edges need to finished the same as the loop section  apply the edge finish and buff with a piece of canvas or a smooth piece of wood and that is a handle made

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Finished

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Next post relining the inside 

Edited by alan123shooting

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This is a brilliant and informative thread and each process so well described.

Look forward to the next instalment.

Many thanks for taking the time to post.

OB

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Ok boys and girls here we go here are the tools you need .

A pin hammer, clamps, scratch awl, Stanley knife, a pin punch, panel pins pieces of card, pearl glue and a very damp cloth

 

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Glue pot of pearl glue 

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Edited by alan123shooting

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 You need to heat the glue over a low heat you can use  an electric ring or I use a single gas ring that uses gas  canisters in the pot I have a mixture of 1-2 ratio of glue to water an 1 inch, 1/2 inch brush 

The glue should have the consistency of hot custard. Do not let the glue boil as it will foam and cover everything in glue. While you waiting for the glue to heat. Lay all the pieces out in order as these will be covered first as this saves time and they need to dry before assembly. Cut the baize so it is over size for the part, so for a piece that will be seen from both sides the baize needs to cover in one piece 

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Edited by alan123shooting

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So check that the glue is workable dip the brush in take it out hold it over the pot the glue should run off the brush in a continuous stream not in lumps. 

Load the brush and remove most of the glue from it and paint on a thin film onto  the surface you are covering do not put the baize straight on as the glue will soak through., leave for about 20 seconds it will go tacky this is what you want. Place the part onto the baize not the baize o the part apply slight pressure leave for about a 1 min and wipe hands on damp cloth this removes any glue on your hands  check the baize has stuck.

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6 minutes ago, ditchman said:

that glue looks evil...

I find it a excellent glue but has to be treated with respect

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Once touch dry trim round with sharp knife 

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Edited by alan123shooting

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  1. Just take your time let each  part dry so it can be handled. There will be some parts that form an angle. To do these you need to start on the back angle apply the baize 

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Then apply the glue on one side of the inside edge cut the baize down into corner fold and stick the baize 

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Trim the baize that has turned the corner carefully apply the glue to other edge and repeat 

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Edited by alan123shooting

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Then trim the excess baize away. 

Pearl glue is very forgiving. If you accidentally get a droplets on the work don’t touch it let it dry and it will peel away and smears can be removed with the damp cloth. 

Edited by alan123shooting

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Parts that  are covered on one  side you need  overlap the baize on the back side this is so you have neat finish when part is glued into the case

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Awkward shaped parts such as the part that the action face to sit on to hold square. Glue the flat surface first 

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Edited by alan123shooting

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Cut the baize at each change of angle and stick each piece 

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Finished item

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I will move on to larger items tomorrow 

Edited by alan123shooting

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i relined a vernier case with velvet a couple of years ago.....................what a bitch to do that was.........it would have been easier with baize, but i was replacing like for like......

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I’ve been meaning to have a crack with velvet they tended to line muzzle loading cases with velvet  as it was the precursor to baize. I have not found a suitable case to do. A good grade baize is great to work with it will tear in a straight line every time handy for getting your sizes 

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2 hours ago, alan123shooting said:

Ok boys and girls here we go here are the tools you need .

A pin hammer, clamps, scratch awl, Stanley knife, a pin punch, panel pins pieces of card, pearl glue and a very damp cloth

 

A&B20E82F7-537F-4FD4-A92B-11ED323D870F.jpeg.bb6470177b2aa4a43cb42aa6a2042ac8.jpeg

Glue pot of pearl glue 

1BA32701-DF29-4B9B-97BE-40F6658C5C1E.jpeg

This is the best use of a horse ^^^^^^^

absolutely inspirational thread

👍😊 

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1 hour ago, alan123shooting said:

I’ve been meaning to have a crack with velvet they tended to line muzzle loading cases with velvet  as it was the precursor to baize. I have not found a suitable case to do. A good grade baize is great to work with it will tear in a straight line every time handy for getting your sizes 

if you do velvet go for the thickest best quality...........edges have to be glued safe as they will unravel.....but joins can be very well concealed..........you do have an amount stretch both ways...........

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Sorry for the delay but here we go this is how you cover the longer length of partitioning. 

As before, cut a piece of baize which covers both sides and overlaps the ends and the base. Load your brush with glue and cover one side leave it to go tacky , place it glue side down on the baize ensure it is smooth, 

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Let it dry for a couple of mins then trim the excess baize,  you need trim as you go, so the excess does not get in the way.and apply the glue and fold the baize over and smooth it down by pulling it tight by the edges and smooth down with the damp cloth and trim the excess 

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Trim excess

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Edited by alan123shooting

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