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nabbers

Side by Side stock repair

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Basically this is what I am trying to achieve.  Back to bare metal now and just working out which solder is appropriate.   Some of the Yanks are using epoxy and filling the whole void.

 

 

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13 minutes ago, TIGHTCHOKE said:

Filling the whole void would be stronger and prevent rusting again.

Epoxy will have a different expansion rate.  Filling the whole void would also affect the balance.  Repair the traditional way - they are made that way because it 'works'.

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I may be wrong but I think that if you follow the suggestion to use silver solder on an English gun you will find the barrels fall apart because they are assembled with soft solder which melts at a lower temperature.

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1 minute ago, London Best said:

I may be wrong but I think that if you follow the suggestion to use silver solder on an English gun you will find the barrels fall apart because they are assembled with soft solder which melts at a lower temperature.

I have to admit I had that thought as well, but wasn't sure - so said nothing.  I know that there are various techniques using different materials and temperatures.  Soft solder is the most gentle.

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28 minutes ago, JohnfromUK said:

Epoxy will have a different expansion rate.  Filling the whole void would also affect the balance.  Repair the traditional way - they are made that way because it 'works'.

Yeah absolutely, just mentioned that as an aside really.   I have several solders available as it turns out my girlfriend used to work for a company that specialises in solder and she has a few samples!  But things are on hold until get info on the best one to use!  Ditto with the flux,  some yanks pre tin all surfaces using an acid based flux, then clean off and mate the surfaces using a rosin based product.   Larry in the video mentions water based flux.

Edited by nabbers

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Different types of solder require different fluxes.  As far as I know, all fluxes are corrosive to a greater or lesser degree. 

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Looking back through previous posts on PW, there was a time when people were a bit more positive about Amateur Gun smithing and there is quite a bit of rib replacement advice tucked away here including "One advantage of relaying ribs is that if it dose go wrong you can always start again ." from a seasoned and respected Gunsmith.  

After an evening of research, I've decided Larry's method in the video isn't the proper way of doing things. He just coats the surfaces in flux, clamps them together and melts solder  into the join like you do when your are plumbing.    That means his water based flux is trapped under the rib and although less acidic than some, it could still rot the barrels.  So I'm going down the route of tinning all surfaces and cleaning off any flux, then clamping them together and applying heat.

Need to get my supplies first and the conflicting advice is bewildering.   Rosin based flux seems to be the tradition way forward so I'll go with that.   Silver Solder needs too much heat I believe and someone also said it makes the construction too rigid, putting strain on other parts so I'm leaning towards a 40/60 lead based product although a complete amateur on another thread on here in 2011 used Lead free solder from Aldi and was happy with the results.   As with many specialised high labour cost niche trades, Gunsmiths don't like to give away all their secrets and I don't blame them, so this process might be one of trial and error util I hit on the right combination of products....unless anyone has tried and tested first hand advice?

 

Edited by nabbers

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Silver solder is (in my view) not the route to adopt. It requires far more heat than conventional lead based solder which can lead to distortion of the rib and barrel when making the joint, unless the whole barrel is heated uniformly in a small furnace.

You may care to have a look at the link below; it doesnt cover all the aspects involved. But may add a little to your knowledge of what is required.

https://www.vintageguns.co.uk/magazine/soldering-on

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19 hours ago, JohnfromUK said:

Different types of solder require different fluxes.  As far as I know, all fluxes are corrosive to a greater or lesser degree. 

all fluxs are acididic by design................lead free solder i think is the worst product to come on to the market..............

the heat required to melt silver solder would alter the temper of the barrels........

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