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Honda CR 500 AF


Gordon R
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It's the same temp that they re-powder alloy wheels direct from the factory's etc.

 

I had a cr500 years ago I was on a American forum I think it was something like cr500 riders....lots of info on there,mine was the steel frame but I worked in a powder plant so it was stripped and coated every few weeks!!

I bought mine from a lad who bought it to do the weston super mare beach race...he changed his mind once he realized he couldnt open it up in first and stay on it...

Mine had a Wisco +2 piston...lots of compression easy once you knew how to start it !!

I was also told to turn it just past tdc then let the kick start come back then kick from there,went everytime.

Enjoy ....

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On ‎24‎/‎03‎/‎2020 at 06:43, ditchman said:

i wonder if that will effect the structure of the aluminium...?

not certain but heat treating aluminium basically means sticking it in a bath of hot water for a day, it's a little more complicated than that but essentially sub 100 degrees will do it, the stuff melts at around 600 degrees, the excess heat could damage or at least alter the characteristics of the alloy.

that bike is starting to come together Gordon, nice job. a friend of mine had a cr500, I couldn't start it either

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Engine back together, with new bearings and seals. Put barrel on and found that when I bought the engines, there were no nuts, only bolts. I have many hundred M10 x 1.50 nuts, but couldn't find a single M10 x 1.25. Had to buy some. Just waiting for them, plus water pump and kickstart seals. 

I will stick a photo of engine when these arrive, by which time I will have replaced all engine bolts with stainless steel cap heads.

First photo is the outer casing - right hand side. Cost £250 - "Just buy it" said Junior. Two new seals - oil and water - back to back and a new bearing. Water pump impeller now installed. Bought the seals on line, yesterday at 4.31pm. Arrived by economy delivery at 9.30am today. Bearing company in Leigh - 14 miles away - very decent service.

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Edited by Gordon R
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well done sir this has captured my interest as did ditchy, land rover rebuild the only experience I had with 2 stroke crossers was when I was 18-19 and had a beast of a Yamaha yz465 and then a husky 360 used to scare the poop out me but loved every minute of them even if they were constantly trying to throw me off the back ..

if I remember correctly they were both pigs to start as well

please will you when finished take some videos of the bike in action once we are allowed to go out and enjoy ourselves again that is !!!!

 

pictures are not my bikes but net images of bikes the same as mine [ did not think of taking / keeping pics back then] 

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Edited by hodge911
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The M10 x 1.25 nuts arrived and barrel / head now installed properly. Just stuck water pump / clutch casing, clutch cover and kickstart on to see what it would look like. I will be taking the clutch cover off whilst putting bits on the bike - don't want it getting marked.

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2 hours ago, ditchman said:

love the stainless steel set screws.........

You've got to fit stainless if you're going to use the bike. Everything else tarnishes very quickly.

I ended up making my own stainless M10×1.25 cap nuts for the engine mounting EN16 studs on mine, because they were just not commercially available

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Edited by amateur
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47 minutes ago, amateur said:

1611645508_nutdetail.png.a6749431a3bc56392d12ccde9302ac9a.png

You've got to fit stainless if you're going to use the bike. Everything else tarnishes very quickly.

I ended up making my own stainless M10×1.25 cap nuts for the engine mounting EN16 studs on mine, because they were just not commercially available

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when i used to do re-builds i would swap all external stuff out for stainless ....particularly on ali casings........i have spent tooo much time in my life removing stuck standand bolts that had rotted in place in ali casings............

once i was given a v 6 or was it a v12 mecurury inboard motor to rebuild...........80% of all the bolts snapped off...........never again....

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I did the airbox - connection to the carb today. Took me about 3 hours. If I had taken more time and checked before cutting, drilling and trying to make it fit, I would have done it in an hour. Nudged the frame which is hanging in the garage. Damaged paint - had to rub it down and start spraying again. Memo - when spraying is over - move it until I need to spray again.

I have been trying to work out the cooling hoses set up - connecting a CR500 to CRF 450 radiators - more hoses than inlets / outlets. Stuck a request for help on a CR500 conversion forum. All I got were sales pitches and telling me I would need to re-weld both radiators. I know I can do it without going daft, but Americans seem to want to alter things just for the sake of it. Some seem excellent engineers, whilst others just seem to want to tell you where you have gone wrong - even if you haven't.

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Not done the lacquer as yet. Will have to spray some more over the damaged bit and let it set properly.

CRF airbox with hole roughly shaped to accommodate CR500 hose. CR500 hose attached to vinyl square - ready to attach to the airbox.  Having damaged the paintwork, I thought I might as well check the engine fit - after the rebuild. Engine mountings were too tight, because of using our spare engine, with no gasket. The paint also narrowed the mountings. After a right fiddle and a degree of filing - no help from Junior, because of the virus - I got in in. It would be more accurate to say I got it in and out three times. That chipped a few more bits, but at least I know it fits. Going to sort out hoses, carb and exhaust fittings then take it out to re-finish the frame properly.

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Edited by Gordon R
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Fitted the sub frame loosely and also the rad valve - hence the gaudy gold bolts. Placed the airbox in the sub frame, connected the carb and it went together first time. Just have to attach the new panel to the old airbox, but I now know the exact position. I was quietly pleased, as I thought it might be a problem. CR500AF builders seem to see it as a hurdle.

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Been having trouble sorting out a head steady. Most CR500AF builders weld a piece onto the middle of the frame where the seat attaches. I have never liked the system, as it seems unsuited to stopping any vibration. The CRF 450 engine has mounts either side of the upper frame rails, but they didn't line up with the CR500 engine. Bit of cutting brackets and loads of filing later, my head steady is all but done. It isn't possible to run an M10 rod from side to side, as the frame gets in the way. I have ordered some M10 nut couplers, so that I can join up three separate screws and make one solid rod. I can then put nuts either side of the head steady mounts on the cylinder head. Job sorted  - nice and solid.

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  • 2 weeks later...

After the many coats had set, I dropped the engine back into the frame. In order not to nudge the frame, I took the head and barrel off. Had a struggle to get it in, with no help from junior and not hitting the frame. The hardest bit was holding the barrel and head in one hand, whilst compressing the piston rings with the other. 

The head steady fits fine and is in for the duration. Fitted sub-frame, which is only four bolts, but all had got clogged with paint - memo for future - plug holes. Had to tap the holes to clean up the threads.

Fastened the bike down to an adjustable stand, which should make it a lot easier to work on.

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Edited by Gordon R
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