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After swearing on a stack of bibles that it would be here yesterday, Chris finally arrived tonight at 8.30 - only 6 1/2 weeks late. It looks messy, but just needs cleaning and blowing out, the thread in the top hole needs a tap running through it and drilling / tapping a new thread at the bottom (the bare alloy in the centre of the photo - currently solid alloy) - to fit a crankcase guard (protects the crankcase when a final drive chain snaps). Then it can get painted and rebuilt. 

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you'd think that as he's a mate he might have cleaned that up a bit for you:good:

I've just got my carbs back for the vf, another mate, we'd discussed up jetting, lifting needles, balancing etc, but £70 didn't include jets apparently, i'll remember that when he needs a favour...

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After tidying up the garage and getting rid of some tools / boxes - set about cutting the frame. The "Y" piece has been cut out and can be re-used. It just needs sliding further up the frame main down piece at the front. Put the spare engine into the frame to have a quick look. One of the bolts on the engine is hitting the bottom rail. I need to die grind a hollow to accommodate the engine sitting lower. 

Bought a spare frame to cannibalise box sections for front of the frame. I was originally going to buy some aluminium box section, but after Googling, found that it was 6000 series, rather than the 7000 series that the frame is made of. I am sure welders might say there isn't that much difference, but I would sooner use the same stuff. 

Have more photos to load, but can only load 2.76mb?

 

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Edited by Gordon R
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7000 is a zinc series aluminium with heat treating properties. After welding it should be heat treated to get its strength back.

You can buy 7000 series box section from merchants like Smith's metals. Though you have a frame to cut up for mods.

Edited by figgy
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Got the "Y" piece in place. Needs tidying up and making a lot more presentable, but just getting it to fit at present. There is enough wiggle room to fit two square tubes at the bottom of the "Y "to meet up with the frame. The frame  joint will need sleeving for strength.

When the new sections are done, just need to drop the spare engine in place and get it to the welder, to weld the joints and put four engine mounts and a couple of exhaust mounting points on the frame.

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Tidied up the Y piece a bit - still needs far more work - and cut the square section tubes to correct length. Just have to use a hydraulic jack to push the top and bottom rails apart so the at the extended Y piece can be fitted. The joint will need sleeving.

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Edited by Gordon R
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  • 2 weeks later...

Dropped the frame off at the welders tonight. Should be back Sunday. Recondition the engine and place it in the frame, so that I can fabricate engine mountings. Some exhaust  and radiator mountings to be welded on and the worst will be done. 

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I'm hopeful that it will look decent, but at the moment it is just a pile of new and old looking parts. 

Not decided about the frame. Invested in many tubes of Solvol Autosol, only to be informed by Junior that he had gone off the idea of a polished frame - now just polishing the swinging arm.

Either powder coating or spraying the frame white, as the whole bike is an updated version of my eldest lad's 1995 Honda CR500 - which looked the same as this example.

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"Y" piece has now been welded in. Still needs a bit of finishing off, but just placed spare engine in the frame to check that the exhaust will go through the "Y" piece. Put spacers on swinging arm / back engine bolt to centralise the engine. It has slightly more exhaust port clearance than originally anticipated, so well pleased. Got engine, radiator and exhaust mounts sorted. Got to sort out the coil mounting - easy enough and then I am waiting for some aluminium collars / sleeves to arrive and frame will be back to the welders to finish off.

The original frame box sections are roughly 1" square 10swg. When inserting a Y piece, the bottom joints are the weak point. The vibration from a 500cc two stroke sometimes causes the welds to fracture. It is a bit of belt and braces, plus more, but the Y piece has a smaller box section welded inside the 1" tubes, then the 1" tubes have been welded together, then a larger square section has been cut in half, wrapped around the tubes and welded around the top, bottom and down the seams. I don't see it ever breaking.

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Edited by Gordon R
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Engine mounting fabricated and ready to weld this week, along with radiator, coil and exhaust mounts.

Checked exhaust fit - need to weld on a bottom mount - decent clearance on the frame and engine.

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Edited by Gordon R
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I have a DR 800 languishing in the garage awaiting my attention. I have been following this thread in the hope of inspiration but I’m just getting more scared of starting! I am in awe of your skill and perseverance, keep up the good work!

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CR500 devotees might notice an extra shaft below the kickstart - at the bottom. The spare engine was converted to right hand gear lever to fit in a motocross sidecar outfit. This one will need a bit of welding on the casing to cover the hole, when the shaft is removed. Our other engine is the standard, left hand gear change.

Looking to get frame back to welder on Wednesday, so it should be ready by weekend. Been playing about with exhaust - CR500 has a 38mm OD, whereas the silencer is 46 ID. A bit of pipe shortening, plus a reduction spacer is the next on a long list.

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Posted (edited)

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Got frame back - just dropped spare engine in to check fit. I have ground off the old weld in front of the bottom mounts and rounded off the new engine mounts, so it doesn't look as angular, as in photo. Still got a chunk of tidying welds up on the frame, before primer and paint. New exhaust mount bottom right - threaded for M8.

Edited by Gordon R
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Posted (edited)

Frame a bit tidier, with first coat of self etching primer. Another few coats of primer and then silk finish top coat, in white.

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Edited by Gordon R
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