Fixing cabinets to modern wall

[4535jacks]

I have moved house to that was built in 1999.  I have drilled through the external wall where I want to fix my cabinets and it is plasterboard.  I didn't drill any further so I don't know how the wall is constructed.  I don't want to drill into the floor as it take up too much of the room.  The loft is converted.

With more modern walls, do people tend to drill through the block work behind and fix using extra long anchors or are there special types of anchors people use?

Not knowing much about wall construction, with a house of this age is it likely to have an outer leaf of brick followed by an inner leaf of block work that I could drill into or just a single outer leaf and then insulation , battening and plasterboard?

Gary

Edited November 20, 2019 by 4535jacks

[4535jacks]

Thanks,  I am not so much concerned about my FEO but more that my neighbours were burgled a few weeks ago.  I would prefer to attached my three cabinets to block work just as I did in my previous houses but all were a lot older with thick brick walls.  Some research has suggested the following options:

Threaded bar and resin 

Thunderbolts (my preference I think as non expanding and easy remove when I move).

Long anchors (150-200mm)

I am just concerned about drilling through my wall to find block work or creating a thermal bridge.  

Edited November 20, 2019 by 4535jacks

[4535jacks]

I am limited in where I can place my cabinets as they will be concealed in existing furniture and having 3 cabinets,  I want them flush against each other to prevent a crow bar being used between them.

[4535jacks]

1 minute ago, spurs 14 said:

Check out your nearest Homebase or b& q check the range of fixings they have sure something would sort your problem but you may have to have a drill and a look to see what you’re up against      Good luck

Thanks,  sadly I am away overseas for a few week s so trying to see if I can come up with a plan to action as soon as I get back.

[Ultrastu]

We build houses that are all timber with no stone ,block or brick anywhere .

I personally wouldnt rely on only fixing to timber studs .irrespective of how thick they may be .its easy work to just  cut them out with your safe still attatched ..6 thunderbolts as deep as possible into block or brick is best .

[Diver One]

You need to know what substrate you are up against....it could be anything from a insulated void and then timber  to plaster board dabbed onto a brick wall

drill,through plasterboard then have a root around with a long screwdriver. See if it pushes into the wall behind...it may be thermalite ( good look with that if it is ) maybe it's brick, maybe it's block

mine is brick so cabinet is fastened back with 6 thunderbolts/lightning bolts that had the holes filled with resin before screwing bolts in. It ain't movin'

[figgy]

As above see what's behind, if blocks or brick, don't forget to cut some bits of pipe as spacers for over you fixings to go flush with surface of plasterboard. You'll pull the cabinet and plaster into the block work otherwise.

If stud work you can still fix into it with big fixing like coach screws. Burglars would have to carry a saw to cut studs. You only have to fix your cabinet so it can't be pulled off or pryed away.easilly. battery powered grinder could have the door open in minutes if they're that determined.

Edited November 21, 2019 by figgy

[Saltings]

behind the finished surface is key be it solid plaster onto bricks / dot and dab plasterboard onto  / concrete blocks / thermalite blocks  / lite ag / etc    resin fixings work  or drill past cavity into external brickwork app 50mm  resin threaded bar and leave to set up cut off excess and fit cabinet      or on  an internal wall drill and pre fit the cabinet to an over sized sheet of ply  with bolts protruding from the back  before screwing  the ply back to the internal studs in multiple areas  to then fit the cabinet and bolt up       worked for my lad in a new house  as no solid walls  west mids police happy   house alarmed  however would be happy with a shed alarm fitted in the cabinet   hope this help

if built in the 90s it should be brick may have been refurbished and cheaper and faster to plasterboard  (dot and dab)        lite ag / thermalite you can drill effortless   into either      brick needs an  sds drill   if so use a 6.5 mm drill bit with 120mm or less  concrete screws frame fixing ready available individually from any local   ) builders  merchant for app 15p each   or less  /   or threaded bar cut to size  and resin fixer compound + hardener + special applicator    end results  ( a solid cabinet )for more £

Edited November 21, 2019 by Saltings

[Demonic69]

I fitted one for a mate through plasterboard into thermalite. We found the best way was :

Anchor bolts, not pulled too tight but seated further in than the edge of the plasterboard.

Threaded rod the same diameter as the original bolts with a nylock nut and washer on the end.

Resin the anchor bolt in place (we tested prior and used Vaseline on the threaded rod to hold it in place and allow easy removal) and use the threaded rod to hold to wall. When removed it's easy to fill the hole like it was never there.