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67mm steel bio load development


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So gents ... thinking about developing something along the lines of below for partridge.

67mm case

Steel powder similar to Lightning Steel load.

Nitro card (or 2 depending on height)

28g copper coated steel 4’s

Card wad/ wrapper

Potentially buffer some with coffee granules.

RTO with a cork top card.

Plan to try a few in my fowling gun, modify recipe depending on how it goes, then send to get data from proof house.

Thoughts?

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Chedite case as good as any and newer lots of steel not as cols weather fussy as the older lots. so run the stock cx2000 .

 Old lightening steel data in the chedites without looking about 38 grain  x 1 oz.

A steel newer lots a bit more lively, so i think i would back it down to 34/36 give plenty of speed, you could probably drop more off than that still keep it effective.

Over powder. :ermm:  Inverted card cup is probably best option, but if you think about how plaswads get their lips blown of the seal sections, i am not 100% on this. i think this might do as good a job. normal card direct on powder, then one of these, "I got them from here years ago only got about 50 left now." http://www.siarm.com/product_info.php?products_id=132

Place that straight on the card. push it down.

Then 12ga nitro card 16ga nitro card glue them together then card wrapper" I Used chinese rice tray lids" I overlapped about 6mm used gorilla glue, but think must be better but not looked into it yet. Roll the wrap put it in a 12ga case mouth, and then add the nitro card section.

Now on the assembly, i just pushed a 16ga vase in after cutting off the brass head off a 3 inch case. But i want a dowel turning up just right sise and plane a flat along one side mark this to corispond with the seam. " Get ME".

Buffer never been a bufferer of steel, not saying it wont work but i never do it, if i think i need buffer i just add more choke. Load 28 gram of copper plate 4s should do it.  RTO obviously frangibles are out if we are playing this game so CARD. Good luck.  Ps pressure test if you think you must but its not going to be trouble in that loading.

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Thanks gents ..

On the wad … I'll just roll my card and see how it goes … I suspect it's unlikely to unravel travelling up the bore.

Buffer … again this would be to 'settle' the shot as it goes through the bore … folks have found pinholing much less likely with buffer due to the cushioning effect.

Pressure test is a must for me as I plan to put these loads through 2 1/2"  100 year old game guns … not old fowling pieces! 

For bigger/further out game I'll use my 3" guns!!

 

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1 hour ago, Smokersmith said:

Thanks gents ..

On the wad … I'll just roll my card and see how it goes … I suspect it's unlikely to unravel travelling up the bore.

Buffer … again this would be to 'settle' the shot as it goes through the bore … folks have found pinholing much less likely with buffer due to the cushioning effect.

Pressure test is a must for me as I plan to put these loads through 2 1/2"  100 year old game guns … not old fowling pieces! 

For bigger/further out game I'll use my 3" guns!!

 

Not sure if you saw my post on the 12 bore cup card tooling post. Using a brass 16 bore case with plunger and 28 bore head to seat the cup card wads, working well. All at test firing stage next.

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1 hour ago, Smokersmith said:

Thanks gents ..

On the wad … I'll just roll my card and see how it goes … I suspect it's unlikely to unravel travelling up the bore.

Buffer … again this would be to 'settle' the shot as it goes through the bore … folks have found pinholing much less likely with buffer due to the cushioning effect.

Pressure test is a must for me as I plan to put these loads through 2 1/2"  100 year old game guns … not old fowling pieces! 

For bigger/further out game I'll use my 3" guns!!

 

One other way i did think about to make a wad, was to use a card board / paper case hull tube, 16ga. "ill mention a possible more practical option at the end.

 Cut the hull paper tube to length incorporating enough room for  load and a fold or card & rto crimp. Turn down a dummy case to support the hull tube, and form or add your RTO+ top card use a nitro card, in the valley of the RTO glue in a 20ga nitro card, or if crimping slide a 20ga nitro card down the case. and in the valley of the crimp. Glue anoyjer 20ga nitro card to the fold crimp pattals. then glue that to a 12ag nitro card. then your inverted cup, or hair wad then OP card. . The rto might be simpler but wont be just as strong.

You might get Card tube of suiyable size from a postage tube firm, but i dont know if they would do custom sizes and if or how they make them and if thats even possible.  I used to make wads / load slieves for big muzle loaders, but i used plotter paper rolled and glued with flour and water paste, in a lathe. but it was a faff. Cutting paper cases up is not going to be practical. but tube has to come from somewhere.

Edited by lancer425
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Guest cookoff013

guys, 

if you are to look at this there are no HP criteria for 67/65 mm hulls. there are very hard limits.

the 2.5" has the same pressure limits as 12/70mm standard proofing. just no steel HP criteria. 

ok, thats the nanny state bit done with,

 

i thought about getting a metal rod and rolling paper around it . aka a single sheet of a certain size of paper. roll it tight to produce a tube. cut or fold one end. and or glue. that would produce a single wad. it will be silly slow manufacturing, then there is the data issue. or lack of.

for the 65/67mm shells, i would bite the bullet and use premium nontox, bismuth / niceshot. and only use as and when.

 

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1 hour ago, cookoff013 said:

guys, 

if you are to look at this there are no HP criteria for 67/65 mm hulls. there are very hard limits.

the 2.5" has the same pressure limits as 12/70mm standard proofing. just no steel HP criteria. 

ok, thats the nanny state bit done with,

 

i thought about getting a metal rod and rolling paper around it . aka a single sheet of a certain size of paper. roll it tight to produce a tube. cut or fold one end. and or glue. that would produce a single wad. it will be silly slow manufacturing, then there is the data issue. or lack of.

for the 65/67mm shells, i would bite the bullet and use premium nontox, bismuth / niceshot. and only use as and when.

 

I used to toll 4 ga Sleeves for muzzle loader, i used plotter paper and 1 inch hydraulic tube in a lathe chuck, and a feed roller on a wooden frame made from a child’s safety gate, i used the lathe to mount the tube in rotated the chuck by hand. it worked.

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On 19/03/2020 at 07:27, Smokersmith said:

Thanks gents ..

On the wad … I'll just roll my card and see how it goes … I suspect it's unlikely to unravel travelling up the bore.

Buffer … again this would be to 'settle' the shot as it goes through the bore … folks have found pinholing much less likely with buffer due to the cushioning effect.

Pressure test is a must for me as I plan to put these loads through 2 1/2"  100 year old game guns … not old fowling pieces! 

For bigger/further out game I'll use my 3" guns!!

 

How much buffer are you hoping to use if you don’t mind me asking?

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Steve don't know if this is of any help. Using a cutter for cutting plastic pipe ( Screwfix £12 ) cut a 55mm fibre cup wad from clay game down to take 7/8 or 1oz steel shot longshot powder 3mm nitro card powder fibre cup wad shot crimp closer crimp finisher . Played today 6 shots 5 pigeons. Will keep experimenting and put over cronograph + pattern

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3 minutes ago, 6.5x55SE said:

Steve don't know if this is of any help. Using a cutter for cutting plastic pipe ( Screwfix £12 ) cut a 55mm fibre cup wad from clay game down to take 7/8 or 1oz steel shot longshot powder 3mm nitro card powder fibre cup wad shot crimp closer crimp finisher . Played today 6 shots 5 pigeons. Will keep experimenting and put over cronograph + pattern

Thanks Boyd  .. I’ve got some Longshot and some of the smaller capacity card cups also .... so ready to go with this option!!👍

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