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Walking sticks


Brambles
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2 hours ago, boo said:

Some wood crooks & cleeks, having a tidy up today , starting to straighten & size some shanks , get a bunch done then , usually have 2/3 sticks on the go at once , so can work inbetween each one...

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WOW !!!

What a talent.

Love them all but especially the barley twist ones.

OB

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Good job on the spacer , is it cow or rams horn  the middle section ? Dont take this the wrong way , but have you thought of making the black buffalo spacer a bit thinner so sets off the middle section , ive tried a number of configurations , and it does alter a sticks asthetics , , glad to see a nice joint on the hazel ! well done  you ! please  dont cock up the ferrlule or alpine spike , the old man was just as critical about the finish of a ferrule to the overhaul sticks look , used to say " every stick should be made to look as show stick  , no matter what " !Have you decided on what to finish the shank off with ?

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11 hours ago, Diver One said:

Wife's finished apart from Alpine Spike and ferrule which should arrive next week.  Oh and the rare earth magnets. I always stick a couple behind the spike...handy for picking up cartridges, dropped keys etc

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That looks really good. May I ask how you get the finish to the black spacer next to the shaft without marking the shaft. Do you find masking tape works OK ?

OB

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It does sometimes get marked

i have found that one wrap,of good quality insulation tape and stretched tightly and then a wrap,or two of the masking tape. Keep filing and sanding away until it starts to drag on the masking tape

as soon as the insulation tape starts to show slow down

when it's all showing then stop and start with the polishing

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2 minutes ago, Diver One said:

It does sometimes get marked

i have found that one wrap,of good quality insulation tape and stretched tightly and then a wrap,or two of the masking tape. Keep filing and sanding away until it starts to drag on the masking tape

as soon as the insulation tape starts to show slow down

when it's all showing then stop and start with the polishing

Thanks for that. Will try with the insulation tape and masking tape. Only used masking tape so far.

OB

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Some spacer ideas , diver one spot on , usually a wrap of insulation tape round the shank to protect it , file down gradually, using finer files , to get a flush fit use a Stanley blade and scrap , using your finger nail as a stop , finish of with different grades of paper , handy putting it on the buffing wheel , shows up any scratches , wet & dry faults out , I use auto glym polish, on a buffer wheel to give a final polish ....

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24 minutes ago, boo said:

Some spacer ideas , diver one spot on , usually a wrap of insulation tape round the shank to protect it , file down gradually, using finer files , to get a flush fit use a Stanley blade and scrap , using your finger nail as a stop , finish of with different grades of paper , handy putting it on the buffing wheel , shows up any scratches , wet & dry faults out , I use auto glym polish, on a buffer wheel to give a final polish ....

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The far right one is it a thumb stick , cant work out the shape is part of a crook .

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I'm with you on the Danish oil. I had previously varnished the sticks but now use Danish oil as others on here had suggested. Those sticks by Boo are well out of my league and beautiful to look at, so always willing to learn from the experts.

OB

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4 minutes ago, Old Boggy said:

Those sticks by Boo are well out of my league and beautiful to look at, so always willing to learn from the experts.

 

I'd give it a bash but wouldn't know where to get the blank 'discs' from or the cost

Deer antler is relatively cheap and if I buy wisely I can get 5 or 6 from one antler

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7 hours ago, boo said:

Some spacer ideas , diver one spot on , usually a wrap of insulation tape round the shank to protect it , file down gradually, using finer files , to get a flush fit use a Stanley blade and scrap , using your finger nail as a stop , finish of with different grades of paper , handy putting it on the buffing wheel , shows up any scratches , wet & dry faults out , I use auto glym polish, on a buffer wheel to give a final polish ....

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I do like your different spacers.

May I ask whether you use the traditional way of joining head to shaft, namely forming a spigot on the top of the shaft or by using studding, being aware of course of drilling out the marrow if antler is used ?

OB

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18 minutes ago, Diver One said:

I'd give it a bash but wouldn't know where to get the blank 'discs' from or the cost

Deer antler is relatively cheap and if I buy wisely I can get 5 or 6 from one antler

Thestickman sells the white (bleached cow horn I think) or black buffalo horn discs but he's currently shut down due to Covid 19 but you could try John Marsh at stickmakingsuppliesonline.

The black or white spaces are £2.50 for 5, so pretty cheap really. He, like the Stickman (Keith Pickering) sells all that is needed for stickmaking. If you can get antler (red deer) cheaply, that's good as they are the most expensive bits to buy along with the hazel or blackthorn sticks, which I assume you cut yourself.

OB

Edited by Old Boggy
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Sorry, misunderstanding. I didn't mean the spacer discs  ( I've got loads of cow, water buffalo and Ox) i was referring to large flat timber disc to make the 'crook heads'

As for the Sticks , I buy them in usually Hazel.  Can't afford blackthorn.  But a couple,of years ago my son felled a tree that was rotten so I cut all the straight branches off and left them for 18 months. Think it was black walnut or similar. Made all my grandchildren a stick for Xmas with Roe Deer thumb V on top

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The timber is rough sawn with a chain saw , look out for any hardwoods , cherry , oak , walnuts etc , people loping trees down , just need a few sections,  cut length ways , season, the use an electric planer by hand,  then through a thicknesser, upto now never bought any wood for handles ! Black buffalo getting expensive now , since highland horn closing , if you can get the off cuts off the backs make any size spacer using the band saw, rams horn backs can do the same with , shanks cut them from anywhere , funnily just spotted a good 8-10  blackthorn on a railway embankment on the way to the shop ! 2 with nice thumbstick tops , I usually use stainless 8-10 mm stud to join tops to shanks , screwfix is handy for this , I have used Danish oil , waxes & yacht varnish for sticks ! I am by no means an expert , make plenty of errors , just a nice past time,  never showed a stick either , got a long way to go to get close to the likes of davyd Davis,  pure class ! 

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These were two , antler tops on hazel , the crown eventually had a stags head inlay,  the other a roe , notice the chalk line , so know each time correct place , were stick meets when doing the joints..

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A nose out crook in black walnut getting shaped , the other is a black k buffalo market stick,  black & white spacers , hope you enjoy , get  some ideas and have a go .........

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