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Oiling stock beretta 302


rayo
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Morning folk 

I’ve a beretta 302 , I like the gun but not keen on the varnish/ lacquered woodwork so I fancy stripping it and just have a oiled finish, I know I’ll have to use nitromorse to strip it then sand it but can anyone advise as to achieve a darkish satin oiled stock finish and what products to use 

thanks in advance guys

Edited by rayo
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In Craft and DIY section there is a locked post on this subject.

I did my Miroku MK60 and used the three part CCL gun stock oil finishing kit. What I found was that the bare wood darkened naturally without the addition of any  colouring or wood dies. It's a labour of love. Good luck.

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Everyone has their own pet finish.

Me I rather like "London gunstock finish" with a couple of pre coats of Alkanet oil. The full kit is a bit expensive but you can buy just the finish and rubbing oil off the net. There is an excellent you tube on it. I agree with BOBBA the wood will darken just with the oil.

If the original finish is anything like the stuff on my Browning you will have a job getting it off. Goodness only knows what they use. "two pack perhaps" good luck.

Edited by DUNKS
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24 minutes ago, DUNKS said:

If the original finish is anything like the stuff on my Browning you will have a job getting it off. Goodness only knows what they use. "two pack perhaps" good luck.

Agreed. I had problems getting the original finish off of the Miroku. I was told by a gunsmith that some manufacturers have a baked on finish. In the end I resorted to VERY GENTLY drawing a Stanley knife blade across the wood at a steep angle rather like a wood scraper to remove stubborn areas. I used a bare blade i.e. Not in a knife / blade holder. Then worked down through various grades of wet and dry paper and ending up with fine wire wool.

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I use that too, its an alarming name though when it comes up on e-mails or paypal notifications !  Roughly 20% of this, 20% proper turpentine and 60% boiled linseed gives a very effective and reasonably priced oil for initially treating and later for maintaining a stock. Rub it well for a satin finish or leave it to dry shinier if you prefer.

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9 hours ago, Bobba said:

Agreed. I had problems getting the original finish off of the Miroku. I was told by a gunsmith that some manufacturers have a baked on finish. In the end I resorted to VERY GENTLY drawing a Stanley knife blade across the wood at a steep angle rather like a wood scraper to remove stubborn areas. I used a bare blade i.e. Not in a knife / blade holder. Then worked down through various grades of wet and dry paper and ending up with fine wire wool.

A Zillion years ago in the RN we always used little squares of glass held in the fingers to scrape paint from wood.  I am sure elf and safety wont allow it now. I think a lot of woodworkers now use steel scrapers. I used a paint stripper which is supplied under licence to boatbuilding yards on my Browning , AND STILL THE DAMN STUF DID'NT WANT TO COME OFF!

Edited by DUNKS
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1 hour ago, Westley said:

am lucky enough to still have some of the old, original Nitro-mors. 

Found an old tin during my lockdown garage clear out/'tis up

i got bought "I bet this is the proper original stuff, I'll give it a sniff"........ but unfortunately for my nose it WAS 👍

 

10 hours ago, Raw and wriggley said:

I used slippery ***** on my 303 did a tidy job

Used it on my V BERNADELLI SxS........fantastic finish

theres some pics on here somewhere of before/during/after.....I even impressed myself

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