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Hawke scope problems


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After some advice as im not used to newer hawkes, just the older HD variety. I've bought 2 nite eyes, 1 is a 3.5-10x50ir. Works fine and zeros well but I hate the crosshairs which is a floating dot. So I bought a 6.5-20x50 ao ir nite eye but I can't get it to zero. I think I've found the problem and wanted to ask incase I screwed it up. 

Basically I've run out of adjustment on elevation. I've made a little rig (2 clamps with mounts in slack enough to allow the scope to spin) to find the true center of the scope, by spinning it until the crosshairs don't move on target. This in theory should be the true center. Now when ever it's been out to be zeroed it's always run out of elevation. 

Ive estimated that it has roughly 200 clicks through the whole range. But ive found that the lower 130 don't seem to move the crosshairs at all. Can I unscrew the turret to where I am now, in theory reseting it to roughly hundred high hundred low or should I just take the scope as a bust and shim the hell out of it. 

These are the turrets, they have tiny pozi screws, I was thinking take them off and see if I can gain extra movement. 

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I think you will fined the 2 screws only hold the "indexing" ring in place, so once zerod the indexing ring can be re centred.

Hawke warranty is very good, give them a call, they will almost certainly collect it & if not fixable will  send a new scope foc, you may well even get a better upgraded scope

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I've just double checked everything, I've been out here a hour now. 347 clicks/range of adjustment, but nothing happens after 230 going up. The crosshairs won't rise anymore. Windage is fine. 

The true center I've just double checked is at 160 from final lower adjustment, so - nearly- half of the range  (173.5 being half 347). But ive lost adjustment nearly straight away on up. 

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Yes, give them a call, they are always very helpful on the very few occasions I have sent in a scope.  The last one I didn't realise just how long I had had it and the engineer said it was not worth the necessary repair but offered a 50% deal on a new one.   I would not mess with it before doing so.

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Infact I've just wound it all the way to the final allowance on up, clicked back to where the crosshairs start moving, I had to lower it 220 clicks before it started lowering. 

Think that's my answer. It's ****ed. 😂

Ill give them a ring tomorrow and see what they say. 

First time I've ever had crosshairs not move, broken plenty but never stayed intact and not moved. 

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So in your scope you have a small leaf spring on one side of the central (gimbal - the bit that moves and holds the cross hair  /etched lens) and basically a screw that is attatched to your turret  .you wind the turret in and out and the spring pushes back against the turret screw . 

If the scope has been left /set .with a turret wound very far in( for a few years )  .then the spring will have collapsed somewhat . And wont push back fully against the screw turret ,to its fullest extent ..

A repair would be dissasemble and repalce the spring with a new one or bend it back open a bit ..

Some higher end scopes have coil springs not leaf springs (to counter this effect some what .) 

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9 minutes ago, Ultrastu said:

So in your scope you have a small leaf spring on one side of the central (gimbal - the bit that moves and holds the cross hair  /etched lens) and basically a screw that is attatched to your turret  .you wind the turret in and out and the spring pushes back against the turret screw . 

If the scope has been left /set .with a turret wound very far in( for a few years )  .then the spring will have collapsed somewhat . And wont push back fully against the screw turret ,to its fullest extent ..

A repair would be dissasemble and repalce the spring with a new one or bend it back open a bit ..

Some higher end scopes have coil springs not leaf springs (to counter this effect some what .) 

Genuinely didn't know how a scope works. Thanks. 

So I'm guessing that it's lost tension at a certain point, and only begins to come to life when wound in enough 

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Yeah .

Ive opened scopes up in the past and opened  the sping up a bit to solve exactly your problem .

Though you will lose any nitrogen purging gas inside ..

If it actually had any to start with ? 

Not being funny here but .

Since the scope is just a simple duplex .

Why not rotate the scope 90 degree .so your windage becomes your elevation and try and zero it  .

The duff elevation scope will hopefully  still be able to get u on zero .

Easiest thing to try first .

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She is a mildot, that one, just the photo is bad. 

Years ago I prob would of just shimmed the hell out of it, or done as you suggested, but i want this tickity boo, if hawke can fix I will pay. Failing that if they offer 50% off I'll have to really down grade my mag expectations compared to how deep my pockets go, which will annoy me. 

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I have six Hawkes which answers your question about after sales service. In the time I have had them I think I have only ever had two maybe three problems and both times had first class service and advice.  Give Deben/Hawke a shout and have a chat.  If you fiddle with it then the life time warranty is void. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
1 hour ago, oldypigeonpopper said:

Hello, a lot of companies are not getting their goods if there imported, I still prefer the HD s 

Ive always raved on about the sport hds. Had a few back in the day, duplex reticle 3-9x40's. Superb scopes. Had a 3-9x40 vantage, thought it was alright and wouldn't mind trying a high end magnification now. 

Mind you I have a few 'zero option' scopes which, imo, are supurb value. Made by tasco. 

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3 hours ago, strimmer_13 said:

Ive always raved on about the sport hds. Had a few back in the day, duplex reticle 3-9x40's. Superb scopes. Had a 3-9x40 vantage, thought it was alright and wouldn't mind trying a high end magnification now. 

Mind you I have a few 'zero option' scopes which, imo, are supurb value. Made by tasco. 

Hello, with your discount you should take Advantage 🤔😆

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