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Damaged fore end


flippermaj
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Cascamite is the adhesive to use, clean & no glue line DO NOT use gorrilla ****

mix cascamite to a smooth double cream consistency, put a small amount of water into a small pot then add the powder gradually, its surprising how the water absorbs the powder, its very to end up with glue to spare. 

Edited by Capt Christopher Jones
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45 minutes ago, saddler said:

do NOT use superglue

Try CASCAMITE

If no joy with that, Dale at ASI is a brilliant source of help & spares cannibalised from guns of the same vintage, so always an option to find a close match

I have dealt with Dale twice and he is one of the most helpful people I have ever encountered in the gun trade. 

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To be honest if it was the PVA you probably would have been fine. 

Anyway if it was the PVA based stuff now that you have separated it try to scrape, pick or sand as much as you can away and then try using vinegar to soften and wipe it away. If that doesn't do it try methylated spirits. If that doesn't do it try Acetone

If it was the PU based stuff go straight to acetone. 

Once you have removed the old glue you can try to re-glue. 

Clean and tidy your workpieces and sand with some very fine sandpaper, degrease again with a tiny amount of acetone. 

PVA or Cascemite will work fine. Make sure you can clamp it together tightly and do a couple of dry-fits to check how it goes together. 

Once it's gone off you'll have to tidy up any oosing and sand back over the join, re treat the wood to match. 

2 minutes ago, flippermaj said:

Gorilla grip. One part has to be damp is that pu?

 

That's PU yeah. 

I think before you go any further give ASI a ring and see if they can recommend anything. You might find they can help you out of a hole before you put too much more effort into it. 

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Oops! Cascamite is good as is, if you can get it one of the quality American woodworking (no not Gorilla) glues. The PW "Gunsmith Collective" might benefit from a photograph? Edges of forends can be a weak point if repaired. It may be an idea (when the repair has set and cured) to use a very small needle drill and drill near but not all way through from the inside of the broken sliver and glue in with Araldite a reinforce made from stiff spring wire. But without a picture it's hard to advise. The nuclear option depending on how well it's been inletted for the barrels is to reshape it to a standard splinter. I personally never liked beavertails on side-by-sides as they don't really protect the hand from either cold or heat coming off the barrels as they do on an O/U.

Edited by enfieldspares
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Still waiting for Cascamite to arrive so ended up using PVA.  Its a bit of a rough repair but seems to have worked.  Managed 13 pigeons today which is good going up here so can't complain.  Dale at ASI was very good.  If I had wanted to get a brand new foreand then that's £800 plus!!!!! so another gun would have been a cheaper option!

 

Cheers for all the help.

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