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Concrete treatment


walshie
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We have an area of smooth concrete in front of the barns that's more slippery than a slippery thing wearing an eelskin coat. It's fine in the dry and when it's just been jetwashed, but days after jetwashing it's as bad as before. 

Is there a treatment you can apply to stop this?

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Ooh! Ooh! I know this one. Amazing what you learn in a pub. Someone with some actual experience will probably be along in a minute.

You can buy a concrete coating and add a non-slip coating. Foundation Armour do them: https://www.foundationarmor.com/non-slip-additive

But sometimes it's easier to make the concrete rough by grinding it out. 

ETA an article about it: https://www.foundationarmor.com/articles/best-solutions-for-fixing-slippery-concrete/ Mentions acid as an option. 

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24 minutes ago, ehb102 said:

Ooh! Ooh! I know this one. Amazing what you learn in a pub. Someone with some actual experience will probably be along in a minute.

You can buy a concrete coating and add a non-slip coating. Foundation Armour do them: https://www.foundationarmor.com/non-slip-additive

But sometimes it's easier to make the concrete rough by grinding it out. 

ETA an article about it: https://www.foundationarmor.com/articles/best-solutions-for-fixing-slippery-concrete/ Mentions acid as an option. 

Thanks. 

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I know people who have got floor coating paint and packed it out with sharp sand and just rollers it on. 

very effective. 
 

I have some sand type coated gripper hazard tape. Sticks to concrete. 
 

I may have some spare rolls somewhere as I had to buy in bulk. - let me know if that could be an option and I will see if I can dig them out 
 

 

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39 minutes ago, ph5172 said:

I know people who have got floor coating paint and packed it out with sharp sand and just rollers it on. 

very effective. 
 

I have some sand type coated gripper hazard tape. Sticks to concrete. 
 

I may have some spare rolls somewhere as I had to buy in bulk. - let me know if that could be an option and I will see if I can dig them out 
 

 

Great offer. Thank you. The area is probably a bit big to tape off, but I reckon it would work on the (also) slippery concrete steps. Don't put yourself out hunting for it though. We've practiced falling till it barely hurts. :lol:

Edited by walshie
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1 hour ago, walshie said:

We have an area of smooth concrete in front of the barns that's more slippery than a slippery thing wearing an eelskin coat. It's fine in the dry and when it's just been jetwashed, but days after jetwashing it's as bad as before. 

Is there a treatment you can apply to stop this?

Any painted or applied treatment for the job will work - only thing to be aware of the most common form of failure of these is turning heavy vehicles at slow speeds. The products tend to form a 'skin' that sits on the surface and can be debonded from the concrete under a torsional force. They tend not to last long after that. 

The old school way is scarification - you just need to be sure that any rebar mesh wouldn't be exposed by doing so. Hand run machines can do this. 

It really depends on what you are doing in the barns - if you are turning big ol' tractors and trailers in and out multiple times a day I would scarify, if its housing your classic car collection that only come out one weekend in August I would paint.  

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Many years ago I raised a part of our garden by laying a concrete car standing in front of the garage.

When winter came, not knowing any better I salt/gritted the concrete to melt the snow: The salt attacked the concrete - breaking up the upper crust that had been levelled with a straight edge leaving 'ribs' on top. So long story short, salt should make the smooth crust crumble a tad.

Dunno if that is what you might want to achieve.

Edited by Dave-G
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4 minutes ago, Dave-G said:

Many years ago I raised a part of our garden by laying a concrete car standing in front of the garage.

When winter came, not knowing any better I salt/gritted the concrete to melt the snow: The salt attacked the concrete - breaking up the upper crust that had been levelled with a straight edge leaving 'ribs' on top. So long story short, salt should make the smooth crust crumble a tad.

Dunno if that is what you might want to achieve.

Hello, was that with cooking salt ? Have seen people do that, until I mentioned rock salt,

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49 minutes ago, walshie said:

Great offer. Thank you. The area is probably a bit big to tape off, but I reckon it would work on the (also) slippery concrete steps. Don't put yourself out hunting for it though. We've practiced falling till it barely hurts. :lol:

Im away for a few weeks but will have a dig when I get back. 
 

if I recall the rolls are 10m

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53 minutes ago, Lord v said:

Any painted or applied treatment for the job will work - only thing to be aware of the most common form of failure of these is turning heavy vehicles at slow speeds. The products tend to form a 'skin' that sits on the surface and can be debonded from the concrete under a torsional force. They tend not to last long after that. 

The old school way is scarification - you just need to be sure that any rebar mesh wouldn't be exposed by doing so. Hand run machines can do this. 

It really depends on what you are doing in the barns - if you are turning big ol' tractors and trailers in and out multiple times a day I would scarify, if its housing your classic car collection that only come out one weekend in August I would paint.  

Light duty stuff. A quad and small trailer at most. 

43 minutes ago, oldypigeonpopper said:

Hello, how big is the area of concrete, you could look at some sort of glue you brush on then cover with sharp sand ? 

About 20m x 10m

10 minutes ago, ph5172 said:

Im away for a few weeks but will have a dig when I get back. 
 

if I recall the rolls are 10m

👍

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Coovar suregrip is the best stuff, used quite a lot of it and other brand stuff and always end up back using this stuff, if you get it on you it will take weeks to get it off! 
just make sure you go to a proper paint supplier and get them to put it in the shaker for a minute before buying it as it saves the elbow work of mixing it by hand. 

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Get a scabbler and rough up the surface properly. Anything painted on will wear off and end up covered in grime leaving no grip.

You could also media water blast the surface to expose the aggregate to give grip.

Edited by figgy
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