Jump to content

Chain saw sharpener.


harrycatcat1
 Share

Recommended Posts

I use on on my sacrificial chains, i.e. chains which are very low or missing teeth which I use when likely to hit rock or dirt working around stumps or low on trunks on farms where there is likely to be wire.

For general sharpening I find it as fast to just use a file and way better. However once you have hit a stone or bit of fencing wire it does a good enough job alot faster.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think the electric sharpener cuts in at an angle, into the groove where the file usually sits.

The chain needs to be taken off to use the electric sharpener.

Personally I use a Husqvarna kit which has a guide that sits on the chain and bar assembly and prevents the file cutting too deep into the links.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My dad has one for ease, it's real easy. He gets me to do it for him. I use a file and guide, I like the feel.of the vallorbe files as they cut and sharpen the teeth. One thing the electric ones don't do as far as I'm aware is take the rakes down.

Have to say when I e done my dad's chain it is razor sharp.

Edited by figgy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

29 minutes ago, johnphilip said:

The electric removes to much metal . Once you use one on a chain  the heat  becomes a problem on the teeth , so I am told , tempers it . Then you can't use a hand file.  Not sure how true it is . I have a one of these the best I have found upto now , and I have tried a few .

20200921_191220.jpg

+1  i have one also, brilliant system and so easy!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Johnphillip,

They don't remove any metal at all until you wind the thread to take off as little as you want to. Only an idiot will blue the metal by taking too much and holding the disc on the metal too long. 

It's like me saying files are no good you can't get the angle right and they make all the teeth different lengths and shapes. In the hands of an idiot both are true. With a little care and knowledge they are both very good.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For a hobby user those above files are the best things, keep ur rakers at correct hieght.

 

U will hand sharpen a chain far quickier than u will with a grinder, esp by the time u take the chain off.

I've got 2 chain grinders sitting in my she'd never used a cheap 1 and an Oregon 1, originally bought them for doing my 3ft milling chain. Still use normal files less hassle

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, Zapp said:

A file (used properly and consistently) is better all round in my humble opinion.  

 

9 hours ago, scotslad said:

The harvester driver I was cutting for today still sharpens all his chains by hand.

Reckons grinders don't come close for sharpness or holding there edge, but not many drivers do that as they can get throu a few chains in a day and usually 60-80cm so plenty cutters to sharpen.

 

yup and yup again......i love the feel of a new file as it gently cuts a new edge......then on the last stroke lift it up thro the edge and it bends the edge burr off..2 or 3 strokes per tooth...is enough...

always like to keep my rakers lowish...on soft woods...only if you have the horsepower in the saw...

Edited by ditchman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Saw a guy on youtube and he used a length of chain file mounted in a battery drill on low speed.  I gave it a try and yes, it works. Very handy out in the field when you need a quick clean up if you hit something you shouldn't.  Certainly sharpened my chains adequately.  As with a hand file ....which without doubt are best ..... you need to know and keep the correct angle.  If I am back in the workshop my chains get sharpened by hand methodically with a correct file.

I run three saws and do get through a bit of timber.

006.jpg

Edited by Walker570
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think an electrical sharpener has been invented that is as good or as precise as doing it manually - yet. Taking the time to check each tooth's edge and depth gauge will always be more precise. I'd only really look at an electronic one if I'd been lazy and not checked the sharpness before putting the saw away. Then for speed they're useful.

But my instructor banged it into our heads that if you put a saw to bed sharp, it'll wake up sharp when you're in a mad rush to get out on a job...

Edited by chrisjpainter
Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, figgy said:

Johnphillip,

They don't remove any metal at all until you wind the thread to take off as little as you want to. Only an idiot will blue the metal by taking too much and holding the disc on the metal too long. 

It's like me saying files are no good you can't get the angle right and they make all the teeth different lengths and shapes. In the hands of an idiot both are true. With a little care and knowledge they are both very good.

What happens when you get a chain were all the teeth are of different lenght or different  angle , you can only preset it to one tooth  . I am for ever sharping  mine when out cutting longs . Its a long walk back to the shed . Learn to do it by hand  with the right guide . the electric cant file the Rakers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do sharpen by hand, and your glad of the break to sit and sharpen by hand.  If you start by machine on the chain and keep using that method the teeth should stay the same length. You can quickly adjust the cut it's only a thumb turn.  One thing the electric one does is maintain the cutting angle. Not all can do this with a file.  

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, chrisjpainter said:

 

But my instructor banged it into our heads that if you put a saw to bed sharp, it'll wake up sharp when you're in a mad rush to get out on a job...

Half the people on this forum don’t clean their guns before putting them away, so you have no chance of persuading them to sharpen a saw!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, chrisjpainter said:

I don't think an electrical sharpener has been invented that is as good or as precise as doing it manually - yet. Taking the time to check each tooth's edge and depth gauge will always be more precise. I'd only really look at an electronic one if I'd been lazy and not checked the sharpness before putting the saw away. Then for speed they're useful.

But my instructor banged it into our heads that if you put a saw to bed sharp, it'll wake up sharp when you're in a mad rush to get out on a job...

 

By the time u take ur bar and chain off, get grinder off shelf and set up u could have sharpened ur chain by hand easily.

 

I thought it would be handy for my 3ft bar but still think less hassle doing it by hand.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...