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Positive input ventilation unit in old house


sandspider
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Hi all.

Toying with the idea of one of these, but not sure it'll really help. It's a big, old, cold, stone house in a damp Welsh river valley. Not very well insulated and quite rambling. It has the odd damp patch and quite a lot of condensation, even on the few DG windows. Would PIV help, or just be a waste of time with draughts and damp air outside? Or would it run up a huge electricity bill warming cold attic air? I'm sure someone on here knows all about it! If it would help dry things out, then some idea of likely costs to purchase, install and run would be useful, if anyone can advise?

Thank you.

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Different Country, but we had damp problems for a place in Southern France- if you left the doors on a wardrobe closed, then the dreaded mould would creep in and the windows used to run with water in the winter.

Fitted a PIV which seemed to eliminate pretty much all of the problems.

Cant say how much it cost to run, the blurb on the manual stated the same as a lightbulb when the heating part was in use? 

Wouldn’t hesitate to fit one again. 

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5 minutes ago, millrace said:

Bang in a nuaire dry master,,  cpl hundred quid runs on penny's ,,keeps air moving etc....stops problems!!

We have a similar problem to the op - u shaped bungalow with loads of external solid walls and a condensation problem. I looked up the drimaster and it seems to filter the air but can it reduce moisture? We currently run a dehumidifier for a few hours a day in the bedroom.

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1 hour ago, sandspider said:

Hi all.

Toying with the idea of one of these, but not sure it'll really help. It's a big, old, cold, stone house in a damp Welsh river valley. Not very well insulated and quite rambling. It has the odd damp patch and quite a lot of condensation, even on the few DG windows. Would PIV help, or just be a waste of time with draughts and damp air outside? Or would it run up a huge electricity bill warming cold attic air? I'm sure someone on here knows all about it! If it would help dry things out, then some idea of likely costs to purchase, install and run would be useful, if anyone can advise?

Thank you.

PIV properly set up will reduce/stop the draughts (unless the holes are large), and warming the air reduces the relative humidity ( a simple example is air at 18c /50%rh becomes saturated at 13c),  The air in your loft will be warmer than outside anyway from building heat loss (by how much is dependant on your loft insulation) so a small warm massively reduces RH.

What it in fact means is that you have slightly tempered air moving outwards and not cold moving inwards.

Works well for us with a nuaire dry master.

Edited by Yellow Bear
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16 minutes ago, Yellow Bear said:

PIV properly set up will reduce/stop the draughts (unless the holes are large), and warming the air reduces the relative humidity ( a simple example is air at 18c /50%rh becomes saturated at 13c),  The air in your loft will be warmer than outside anyway from building heat loss (by how much is dependant on your loft insulation) so a small warm massively reduces RH.

What it in fact means is that you have slightly tempered air moving outwards and not cold moving inwards.

Works well for us with a nuaire dry master.

There you go,,no way this beats my "it just works" answer.....we fit them on some of the work we do and they work....lol

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28 minutes ago, sandspider said:

Thanks, all. Sounds encouraging!

Jaymo, what sort of size is the house? Can't find figures for surface area where they're effective online.

Also, are they DIY level to install, or need pros?

That was 112m2 single storey.

Could you not utilise more than one? Depending on your roofing configuration of course.

 

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1 hour ago, sandspider said:

Ah, just found it. Up to 200m2. We'd need bigger, maybe they have an industrial one that would work...

Talk direct to them they are approachable 

1 hour ago, Jaymo said:

That was 112m2 single storey.

Could you not utilise more than one? Depending on your roofing configuration of course.

 

No problem with 2 if configuration allows.  note: set both to the same operating volume

Nuaire are a simple 240v supply from a switched fused spur - setup is simply described in the product OMI

The most difficult part for some Diyers is cutting the 200mm dia discharge terminal into ceiling:)

Edited by Yellow Bear
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Thanks, but given the amount of draughts we already have I don't think more trickle vents will cut it!

17 hours ago, Yellow Bear said:

Talk direct to them they are approachable 

No problem with 2 if configuration allows.  note: set both to the same operating volume

Nuaire are a simple 240v supply from a switched fused spur - setup is simply described in the product OMI

The most difficult part for some Diyers is cutting the 200mm dia discharge terminal into ceiling

Thanks.

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