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Just bought a new Pard 008 for use on a hmr. How long can I expect from the pard battery supplied? Wil i need to keep turning on and off or just take spare batteries? On the reticle adjustment I understand the style, magnification and colour options but there are a series of other symbol options; A   X.0   Y.0  what are these?

Any tips or tricks to get the best out of the unit? 

What is the best way to cover the lens and IR units? I have seen these on the bay are they any good? 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193955245457?hash=item2d28a22d91:g:lZAAAOSwl4Ff4PAQ

Thanks in advance. 

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I think it's 4-5 hours per battery. I usually keep mine on "standby" with the first level of IR selected so it's good to go as soon as i press the button.

X and Y are windage and elevation (maybe not that way round).  I don't think the numbers relate to specificaly to MOA or MILS

once zeroed move to the "save" symbol and then scroll to the "yes" option to save it.  It took me a couple of goes to realize this with my 008.

I also use a Solaris srx to see a bit further than the onboard IR .

Edited by wyn
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The supplied battery is normally a bit rubbish, see if its mah rating is visible , but he ones Ive seen are about 1250mah, a good one is 3400 , Ampsplus are considered the best, but are around a tenner a pop.
There are no batteries over 3500 mah , if it says they are , they are fake and probably about 1000, anything that says Ultrafire is a bag of ....

If you are using the onboard IR , then a couple of hours is possible with a decent battery, make sure you use flat top ones too, as nipple ones tend to put a lot of pressure on the threads of the cover .
A separate IR torch like a Solaris or other laser type will not only give you 4-5 hours from the 008, but really opens up the units visible range...massively.

A sunshade makes it easier to focus and also protects the lens, but the newer type leaves very little room for one , they are available , but make sure it fits the P version, as the older ones definitely will not.

Check your point of impact between the 2 zoom levels , some it seems to shift slightly.
Be prepared to shim the back end if the ret isnt centred too , Eagle vision do an excellent after market adjustable mount that takes care of this , and also fixes the 008s biggest weakness.. the supplied mount.

A B  ect are zeroing profiles, and can be saved for different rifles, x and y are zero co ordinates as wyn says.
Any more questions feel free to ask :good:

Edited by Rewulf
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18 minutes ago, Rewulf said:

The supplied battery is normally a bit rubbish, see if its mah rating is visible , but he ones Ive seen are about 1250mah, a good one is 3400 , Ampsplus are considered the best, but are around a tenner a pop.
There are no batteries over 3500 mah , if it says they are , they are fake and probably about 1000, anything that says Ultrafire is a bag of ....

 

Exactly the sort of stuff I was looking for thank you. I thought the battery would be carp but I have some good ones from Torchy Boy. 

I will probably put a laser on it I dont need range beyond 150m but I will need range in poorer conditions. The threads on the battery cap are a bit rough so will out a touch of greese on them. 

Are the mounts good enough to swap rifles and keep zero? I might use it for my air rifle too if it's easy to swap about. 

I will check out the sun shade. These look good

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184578873329?hash=item2af9c217f1:g:Q4UAAOSwP4Nf1kYP

1 hour ago, wyn said:

I usually keep mine on "standby" with the first level of IR selected so it's good to go as soon as i press the button.

X and Y are windage and elevation (maybe not that way round).  I don't think the numbers relate to specificaly to MOA or MILS

once zeroed move to the "save" symbol and then scroll to the "yes" option to save it.  It took me a couple of goes to realize this with my 008.

I also use a Solaris srx to see a bit further than the onboard IR .

Yes of course. Obvious when you think about it. Only took it out the box today and was messing with the rets and it all disapeared :w00t:

Seems a bit fiddly at first but these things take time to become second nature. 

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26 minutes ago, oowee said:

Are the mounts good enough to swap rifles and keep zero? I might use it for my air rifle too if it's easy to swap about. 

You sometimes hear of people getting away with this, I would say its no it wont hold zero.

28 minutes ago, oowee said:

Ive heard these are good, not been out long.

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I swap my Pard8, which was one of the first batch into the country, between my .17Rem, .20Prac and AA S510 air rifle without loss of zero....and the rifles are in the cabinet without scopes on. The secret is to be consistent in mounting and tightening the cross-bolts.... I was pleasantly surprised that it didn’t need shimming, they now provide shims with the scope but there’s nothing wrong with strips of coke can. 

To mount it, I simply use a thumbwrench from Wilko/Wilkinson’s which you’re only likely to find in store, with a 1/4” drive socket on the end, the nuts don’t need to be any tighter than that and the bolts have been known to stretch and snap by being over-tightened. 

Zero and save in zoom mode (13x)....on mine it moves the reticle 1 click at a time..if I zero in basic mag it moves 2 clicks and if I go into the Zeroing mode in basic mag it rounds any odd number down to the next even number.  That may be a feature peculiar to my scope but worth bearing in mind (Write your co-ordinates down! 🤣)

For a lens protector... I use a shader8 from Ash at Custom Hunting

https://customhunting.ecwid.com/3Dprint-&-building-c13698142

Keeps the lens clear of your fingers. 

External IR-wise I use a Sirius XTL in a Burris Eliminator ring. Brilliant. 
 

Enjoy 👍

 

Cheers

Fizz

😎


 

Edited by fizzbangwhallop
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