Plastering, around sockets or under them.

[RockySpears]

Looking to, eventually, get the whole house reskimmed as we have mashed around every room in our final resting place.  Filled in archways, opened doorways, replumbed, electrics, ceilings, the lot.

  Interestingly, when asking for quotes for the work, there seems to be  a distinct difference of opinion about whether to around things like sockets, or remove the front and go under.  Is there a best practice?  I really think it would be under the sockets.  I have only asked the guys opinions without trying to prejudice them, and it is not apparently a cost thing either.

Thank you,

RS

[Revo]

I would take the sockets off and plaster under .then if you ever need to change the sockets for any

reason .they will not be stuck to plaster when you try to remove .its like when they build houses the plaster does it first then they put the sockets ect on 

[Scully]

Remove sockets then skim.

[discobob]

Remove face plates - if metal back box just plaster up to the hole - if Plaster boxes - the skim should sit about level to the plastic - but the box is nice and flush which makes the face plates sit right. Our builder didn't bother and it always winds me up when I see the face plate and and the plastic edges of the back box.

I have trust tried looking but I can't find them - they were things that you could put behind the face plate and then screw the plate back on - leaving the switch/socket standing away from the surface by a CM or two but still safe and usable. Have them in place while plastering and also waiting for it to go off and painting.

[ditchman]

under............over them ...it looks soooo bad............thats why the fixing screws are so long...to allow for this

Edited May 6, 2021 by ditchman

[RockySpears]

Thanks all.  It did seem odd that some guys said they would go around, and they were not cheapest.  Looks like I can eliminate them easily,

Cheers,

RS

[simonm]

My mother in laws decorator painted around the sockets, too lazy to loosen them off and do a proper job 🙄

[udderlyoffroad]

Yes, no question.  Undo sockets, having turned the power off, and protect them with sandwich bags and tape.

Probably taken you longer to type this thread out than it would've done to do a room, and definitely pales into insignificance compared to completely emptying said room in order to enable them to plaster.

[Jaymo]

Off of course. To not do so is lazy and in the future if you wish to change the faceplates then there could well be a gap/ridge.

Do as udderly say and use sandwich bags if your not prepared to remove completely and ‘wago’ them up
 

 

[claydodger]

No plasterer worth his salt would plaster up to socket or switch outlets, you can try yoozyboxes as mentioned earlier, they come in singles and doubles and are 25mm deep and they fit between the outlet plate and the back box, but you will have to buy at least 25mm longer socket screws to hold them in place, or as also mentioned, unscrew the plates, lift them off the back box and cover poly bags, and don't forget to switch the circuit off. 

[discobob]

12 hours ago, claydodger said:

yoozyboxes

That's the ones!!!

[RockySpears]

Plaggy bags and no power would work, but @£4.00 for a pack of 5 Yoozyboxes no room would need more than £12 worth and I can still work from home with power.  I can fit them myself as the guy moves from room to room. Strange that not one guy mentioned them.  

What a mine of helpful info this place is,  you are going to love my next projects!

Cheers,

RS

[udderlyoffroad]

4 minutes ago, RockySpears said:

Plaggy bags and no power would work, but @£4.00 for a pack of 5 Yoozyboxes no room would need more than £12 worth

Eh?

Nobody said you had to keep the power off, only when you fit the the 'plaggy' bags, and even then we only said that to cover our backsides.  If you manage to touch a live component, you're either doing it wrong or one of the terminals has come loose.

[discobob]

3 hours ago, udderlyoffroad said:

Eh?

Nobody said you had to keep the power off, only when you fit the the 'plaggy' bags, and even then we only said that to cover our backsides.  If you manage to touch a live component, you're either doing it wrong or one of the terminals has come loose.

For decorating alone - placcy bags etc are fine (or even just lifting the faces off a bit (depends on the length of the screws) but as I said - he will be plastering - leaving it to dry out, whitewashing/sealing/then decorating - a long time to leave a room/rooms without power

I bet though that you will go to the OP's house in a year and the yoozyboxes will still be fitted 😂

[claydodger]

If your projects are as long as mine you better use the yoozyboxes, plus when you are plastering the bloody stuff gets everywhere so they will protect the cables and you can still cover the plates with a poly bag, as said you switch off to work on the circuit and back on when the boxes and bags are on, a bit like shooting, 240v don't take prisoners. 

[Remimax]

plaster round sockets for a **** diy pub job , sockets off for anyone who has any pride in the job.

bit like the diy clowns that tile and grout around sockets .

[udderlyoffroad]

1 hour ago, Remimax said:

bit like the diy clowns that tile and grout around sockets .

Go on then, any tips for tiling up to back boxes?  I always find it an absolute pain in the hole to get right.

[Remimax]

21 minutes ago, udderlyoffroad said:

Go on then, any tips for tiling up to back boxes?  I always find it an absolute pain in the hole to get right.

whats there to get right ? ,if the tile does not overlap the edge of the back box everyone is happy and faceplates go on no prob.

 

 

 

 

[discobob]

14 hours ago, udderlyoffroad said:

Go on then, any tips for tiling up to back boxes?  I always find it an absolute pain in the hole to get right.

You can get longer screws from your local electrical wholesalers or even some big chain DIY's - Large format tiles with a hole cut in it may need for the faceplate to be removed if there is no slack to twist it round. A lot of Tilers use a an angle grinder to cut out from the back of the tile - but make the hole as small as you can because there is always the chance that you will get a little bit of extra cut that may show.

[udderlyoffroad]

13 hours ago, Remimax said:

whats there to get right ? ,

Well I didn't know this tip for instance:

9 minutes ago, discobob said:

A lot of Tilers use a an angle grinder to cut out from the back of the tile

Been struggling with a cheapo tile 'tablesaw' for want of a better term - but  angry grinder with diamond blade honestly hadn't occured to me.

[discobob]

2 minutes ago, udderlyoffroad said:

Well I didn't know this tip for instance:

Been struggling with a cheapo tile 'tablesaw' for want of a better term - but  angry grinder with diamond blade honestly hadn't occured to me.

Just as an FYI - the little tablesaw ones are fine - for your ordinary tile - but for the likes of Porcelain etc then it is a need to get a very good blade - with lots of water to cool it while cutting.

Also, plan your cuts before you start - if you can get the edge of the tile in the right place it makes it easier as you can come in from one side - lots of narrow cuts is another way of doing it on the tilesaw you have

[Wilts#Dave]

On 09/05/2021 at 18:37, udderlyoffroad said:

Go on then, any tips for tiling up to back boxes?  I always find it an absolute pain in the hole to get right.

It is a mega common occurrence when I’ve done a kitchen rewire for example, to find that the tilers can’t manage to cut a hole/hatch the same size as the back box I’ve sunk in the wall.....it’s obviously fiddly to do but even more so once the tiles are on the wall!  
No trick though, just make sure the opening corresponds with the back box (usual problem the the tiles overlapping the box too much). 
You’d always try to make sure the sockets aren’t in the centre of a tile so you can tile ‘round’ rather than cutting a hatch. 

Edited May 11, 2021 by Wilts#Dave

[udderlyoffroad]

11 hours ago, Wilts#Dave said:

You’d always try to make sure the sockets aren’t in the centre of a tile so you can tile ‘round’ rather than cutting a hatch. 

Exactly.  Trouble is, (ex) SWMBO tended to select backsplash tiles only after the cabinets had been fitted, so planning socket location accordingly was out.

Will know better next time.

Thanks for the tips chaps.

[ShootingEgg]

On 06/05/2021 at 12:03, discobob said:

Remove face plates - if metal back box just plaster up to the hole - if Plaster boxes - the skim should sit about level to the plastic - but the box is nice and flush which makes the face plates sit right. Our builder didn't bother and it always winds me up when I see the face plate and and the plastic edges of the back box.

This. We have just skimmed the dining room and kitchen after knocking a wall down to make one room. 100% remove the face plate and skim upto the metal or plastic back boxes. You will regret if you leave them on and plaster isn't neat up to the edge

[Saltings]

4 hours ago, ShootingEgg said:

This. We have just skimmed the dining room and kitchen after knocking a wall down to make one room. 100% remove the face plate and skim upto the metal or plastic back boxes. You will regret if you leave them on and plaster isn't neat up to the edge

what he said is the way to go    get who you can to do it right first time  a lot of sheisters out there  even more now         be careful   i reiterated     be carefull