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Browning 725 beads.


ChrisO
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Do any of you experienced guys know how to remove beads ? 
Ive bought a 725 sporter 3, that has a fore and mid bead that I’d like to take off. Normally I’d have a go, but I bought this gun new, only last week and don’t wanna set about it with the Stihl saw and gas axe just yet. I’d imagine they just unscrew, the white bead and black housings. 
Id appreciate any help from the more knowledgeable chaps on here.

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46 minutes ago, TIGHTCHOKE said:

Go back to the shop that you bought it from, get them to do it for you.

I meant to do just that while I was there, but they were mad busy and due to close. Probably the best option though, cheers 👍

11 minutes ago, Scully said:

I’m not sure why you want to get rid, but you’ll just leave a hole if you remove either, and you’ll have to keep them safe for if and when you sell it.

You can simply blot them out with Matt black paint or a Sharpie. 

I’m a novice and the guy giving me instruction tells me they’re evil, so I’m keen to remove and like you said, put them somewhere safe…..cheers 👍

Edited by ChrisO
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2 minutes ago, ChrisO said:

 

I’m a novice and the guy giving me instruction tells me they’re evil, so I’m keen to remove and like you daid, put them somewhere safe…..cheers 👍

Really? Now if he’d said safety catches I’d understand! 🙂

While admittedly you should be concentrating on the target and not looking at any bead, they do serve a purpose, but each to their own. 
 

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8 minutes ago, Old farrier said:

Why do you think they would bother putting them on every gun for the last 100 years 

For use "aiming" the gun such as when taking "pot" shots at sitting quarry. Or for when using a round ball. And also because everybody mostly does it. Like full length ribs on O/U guns. Except Boss never did. A round "in the white" or brass bead actually makes an awful substitute front sight as they shoot away the light.

Same as why folk think that a ventilated rib is a weight saving measure when we all ought to know that a so called "solid" rib often if made right weighs less!

Just some makers, especially at one time Westley Richards used to, once, to continue to put a "nib" on the lower rib at the muzzle end of breechloading side by side shotguns as a hangover from when the gun was actually a muzzleloader and had a ramrod below. 

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4 minutes ago, enfieldspares said:

For use "aiming" the gun such as when taking "pot" shots at sitting quarry. Or for when using a round ball. And also because everybody mostly does it. Like full length ribs on O/U guns. Except Boss never did. A round "in the white" or brass bead actually makes an awful substitute front sight as they shoot away the light.

Same as why folk think that a ventilated rib is a weight saving measure when we all ought to know that a so called "solid" rib often if made right weighs less!

Just some makers, especially at one time Westley Richards used to, once, to continue to put a "nib" on the lower rib at the muzzle end of breechloading side by side shotguns as a hangover from when the gun was actually a muzzleloader and had a ramrod below. 

Just now, Old farrier said:
5 minutes ago, enfieldspares said:

For use "aiming" the gun such as when taking "pot" shots at sitting quarry. Or for when using a round ball. And also because everybody mostly does it. Like full length ribs on O/U guns. Except Boss never did. A round "in the white" or brass bead actually makes an awful substitute front sight as they shoot away the light.

Same as why folk think that a ventilated rib is a weight saving measure when we all ought to know that a so called "solid" rib often if made right weighs less!

Just some makers, especially at one time Westley Richards used to, once, to continue to put a "nib" on the lower rib at the muzzle end of breechloading side by side shotguns as a hangover from when the gun was actually a muzzleloader and had a ramrod below. 

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Fair enough 😊

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11 minutes ago, enfieldspares said:

Yes for don't forget most shotguns back in the early days were single barrel muzzleloaders. 

I hadn’t forgotten although as they evolved you would have thought that after they invented the breech loaders you would have thought they would have done away with the beads 

But we shall probably differ on this so each to there own 😊👍

 

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Thanks for the replies. I’m not looking to get into “the bead” debate, I don’t know enough about it. So I’ll remove em in the way that’s been advised and crack on with my coaches methodology, it seems to be working thus far. 
I can always put em back on at a later date, once Ive got my own system locked down.
The fella I see is a CPSA coaching instructor and an ICSI member, so knows a bit more than me at this stage.

Once again, cheers !

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10 hours ago, ChrisO said:

I meant to do just that while I was there, but they were mad busy and due to close. Probably the best option though, cheers 👍

I’m a novice and the guy giving me instruction tells me they’re evil, so I’m keen to remove and like you said, put them somewhere safe…..cheers 👍

i`d ignore that bit of `wisdom`. Millions of shotguns have been produced and I`d guess they all came with a bead on........

Edited by matone
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Personally I'd leave the FRONT bead in place and, yes, get a new coach. For you can also on "easy" predictable targets like on a skeet layout use the frontsight method on simple crossing birds and shoot with a roughly calculated lead and do very very well. I used to shoot a Greener GP that way...as if it were a rifle....using the notch in its breech as the rearsight and the its bead as a front sight. And, even if you don't leave the front bead in place it at least replace it with a brass or white metal bead. The thread should be a size standard Browning replacement. FWIW I'd email the importers and ask. The mid-bead? I hate 'em. That could go and the hole be hidden with a slotted length of threaded rod as is used to hide the pre-drilled receiver holes on stalking rifles. But again FWIW I'd email the UK importer.

Edited by enfieldspares
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If you are getting on well with your instructor and seeing improvements in your shooting then why not try what he’s suggested and you can always pop the beads back in if it makes no difference. None of us have seen you shoot so I couldn’t comment on what is right for you. 

I have a front bead and mid bead on one of my guns, which when that gun didn’t fit well really helped with my mount to get it consistent. Once a gun is fitted I do not need either bead really, I shoot in pitch black when you can’t see your barrels let alone bead! 

Edited by WalkedUp
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3 hours ago, ChrisO said:

Thanks for the replies. I’m not looking to get into “the bead” debate, I don’t know enough about it. So I’ll remove em in the way that’s been advised and crack on with my coaches methodology, it seems to be working thus far. 
I can always put em back on at a later date, once Ive got my own system locked down.
The fella I see is a CPSA coaching instructor and an ICSI member, so knows a bit more than me at this stage.

Once again, cheers !

If you are improving, the beads are not impairing your shooting, leave them alone. The front one unscrews, you will break the white bit on the mid bead and be left with a tiny metal rod sticking up on the rib.

All "coaches" have their foibles and ideas but not all of them are good ideas and removing beads on a shotgun is not one of them. 

 

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