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Bricklayers, Painters advice please


Loki
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Hiya All

Mid-30s concrete? bay window cill, 3 sections butted up and painted over the years -

1. The joints have failed and been repaired poorly (not by me!), leading to water run-through to brickwork below - recommend options/how to make good, and with?

2. Cill concrete seems to have spalled? in some areas - recommend options/how to make good and using?

3. Flaking paint - options to remove from the concrete (given most paint strippers are 'lean' nowadays) and afore subsequently painting?

I have some Zinnser int/ext sealer - good or other better option?

Appreciate any guidance!

L

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Hi Tightchoke

Thank you for your suggestion - not sure it will seal through and stop further washout of the lime-based morter in the bay below (I will repoint after sorting the leak-through gap).

Been toying with cleaning out joints (with angle-grinder) and back-filling with epoxy resin to seal.....

L

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wire brush the dead paint off  prime and re finish      the joint if you dont want to point up  wire beush debris      eurocell fixall sealant     tool up using spray oil      soapy water dont work  you will be golden  and paint  with oil based paints        now hard to find     acrylics are hydroscopic  and draw moisture in             keep it simple  if it worked in the past it will work again 

Edited by Saltings
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Acrylics/latex paints aren’t hydroscopic, and oil based ( solvent ) paints are as common now as they ever were. 
Personally I would clean the blown pieces with an anti fungal wash, give the crack a good clean and fill with Tetrion filler, then apply a coat of stabilising solution before repainting with a trade paint of your choice, either water or oil based. 
You can seal cracks and around peripheries prior to painting with a good sealer such as Weathermate, or any other paintable sealer. 

Edited by Scully
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hydroscopic the wrong word    acrylics dispel rain droplets  however in humid weather moister passes through   a bit like goretex  oil based paints are not the same anymore inc red oxide  primers  dont work as they did   linseed oil has been removed       a moisture metre  is a handy tool  when there is doubt 

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Hi Gen'lmen

Wirebrushed off all flaking/loose patches of paint using a drill attachment - surface pitted below.

Touprelith acquired (thank you Screwfix).

Undecided about the joints - seem solid enough but mulling over pumping in (syringe) some sort of 'super' adhesive - interesting link on U-tube using Superglue and bi-carb soda - rock hard.....

Any further thoughts appreciated.

L

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15 hours ago, Saltings said:

hydroscopic the wrong word    acrylics dispel rain droplets  however in humid weather moister passes through   a bit like goretex  oil based paints are not the same anymore inc red oxide  primers  dont work as they did   linseed oil has been removed       a moisture metre  is a handy tool  when there is doubt 

In humid weather acrylics just take longer to dry, that’s all. Once dry they’re fine. 
Oil/solvent based paints are as good as they ever were, including red oxide. As a professional I wouldn’t use them if they weren’t. 

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