Bodygrip trap question

[30-6]

When using fenn 4 or 6 for squirrels the kill bar catches around neck for a quick result. But with the bodygrip 110 or 116, the design / size of the trap the kill bar catches around mid body, so I guess that is why it's called a bodygrip trap.

So, will this mid body strike area give a quick death , bearing in mind the force of a bodygrip ? I am thinking of attaching a short length of pliable wire to the trigger so kill bar strikes a fraction earlier.

[Eddie B]

Personally I believe the bodygrip is a much more humane trap than the Fenn type traps. Much more killing power, and when set correctly, should catch the animal around the head AND body area. It is referred to as a suitcase catch.

 

 

[30-6]

I can see from your pic that you have adapted that trigger, but do you use any traps as they come ? The trigger seems to move a short distance before firing the trap.

Edit to add - Do you use tunnels so the trap can be set off both ways, or do you only use a blind set up entering from one direction only ?

[Eddie B]

5 minutes ago, 30-6 said:

I can see from your pic that you have adapted that trigger, but do you use any traps as they come ? The trigger seems to move a short distance before firing the trap.

Edit to add - Do you use tunnels so the trap can be set off both ways, or do you only use a blind set up entering from one direction only ?

I don't use the trigger system as it comes from the manufacturer. I do modify them to suit my needs. As I mostly target mink, I use either pans, or shape the trigger into a circle shape. You probably don't really need to modify your triggers when targeting squirrel. They have no problem trying to squeeze past the bell trigger.

 With the pans, I mainly use them in tunnels, with no bait. Just set as a run through. Placed on a narrow spot on a river bank, it can be a very effective set. 

 To be honest, even if you catch a  squirrel by the body, in a bodygrip, I think death would be fairly quick. They are a pretty soft animal, and those traps have a lot of power in that spring. 

[Walker570]

I differ with you on tree rats, they are very tough little boogers and as I have said many times, glad they don't grow as big as labradors.  I have used both styles and old enough to have seen a number of the now illegal traps used as well, as well as witnessing rats being snared.  Very occasionally/rarely have I had vermin caught inappropriately both the Fenns and Body Trap styles do a good job.  Instant death is a very rare phenomena.

[Eddie B]

1 hour ago, Walker570 said:

I differ with you on tree rats, they are very tough little boogers and as I have said many times, glad they don't grow as big as labradors.  I have used both styles and old enough to have seen a number of the now illegal traps used as well, as well as witnessing rats being snared.  Very occasionally/rarely have I had vermin caught inappropriately both the Fenns and Body Trap styles do a good job.  Instant death is a very rare phenomena.

Well, I certainly wouldn't have the same experience as yourself regarding squirrels. I don't really target them, seen as we have mainly reds where I live. I suppose the reason I view them as soft is that they can be caught with mk4's, which IMO is on the lower end of the scale, regarding killing power. O, by the way. Instant death, wouldn't be such a rare phenomena, if you were allowed use traps like the one in the picture above. The Belisle is one hell of a powerful trap. 

[Windswept]

I use my own boxes like these: https://www.fourteenacre.co.uk/shop/fineren-bodygrip-box-for-squirrels/

If you look at the photo the middle hole means you know exactly where the squirrel will trigger the trap. You can then bend the trigger to suit, it can be bent up so the trap will catch the neck. I suppose the risk of that would be catching the head so don't bend it too far.

[Eddie B]

1 hour ago, Windswept said:

I use my own boxes like these: https://www.fourteenacre.co.uk/shop/fineren-bodygrip-box-for-squirrels/

If you look at the photo the middle hole means you know exactly where the squirrel will trigger the trap. You can then bend the trigger to suit, it can be bent up so the trap will catch the neck. I suppose the risk of that would be catching the head so don't bend it too far.

Yes, that is the beauty with the bodygrips. You can modify them to suit your needs. You can modify the trigger or dog, till its triggering at the point, you are satisfied with

[Old farrier]

15 minutes ago, Eddie B said:

Yes, that is the beauty with the bodygrips. You can modify them to suit your needs. You can modify the trigger or dog, till its triggering at the point, you are satisfied with

Perhaps a few pictures and a tutorial on how to adjust them for target species would be good 👍 

im pretty good with the fenn traps 

but all I seem to catch in the bodygrips is my hand can never seem to set them up right 

all the best 

of 

[Eddie B]

OK, I'll stick up a few youtube video's of some examples of modification. I just don't have time to do a proper one myself, apologies. 

So first off, if you're happy with how your traps are working, then you literally do nothing at all. Don't try fix something that ain't broke. As I mentioned already,  I'm not a squirrel trapper. O hear they catch just fine, streight out of the box. 

 If on the other hand, your not satisfied with your catch rate, or getting cleaner catches, then maybe modification will help improve your traps performance. Trap sensitivity, and how far the trigger can move before the trap fires, all depends on the dog. I use the last notch, which is most sensitive, but sometimes a certain trap is not sensive enough, or too sensitive, so filing the dog can improve the traps performance. You can make the trap more or less sensitive by filing different parts of the dog.

 Here is a video showing  how to make a trap more sensitive

 

I like using pans for mink in run through tunnels. They can be bought, or made. Here is a video (again not mine) showing a homemade pan for bodygrips

Again, these are just options if you feel like they'd add to your trapping success. 

 A circle trigger. With BMI, they are long enough to make a circle. Just bend them streight, and then use a piece of 2.5 inch plastic or steel tube, and bend the wires around it into the circle shape. I find this formation excellent for mink. 

I will stick up a few more bits later when I have time