Shotgun firing pin material?

[Dazv]

Hi guys, after sling the question about finding replacement firing pins for a good Freinds shotgun it seems to be a pretty hard task.

I have a lathe at so it seems the easiest option will just be to make him a new one. So does anyone know what material is best to make firing pins from? I assume the tip will want some sort of tempering. Cheers in advance for any advice  

[JohnfromUK]

Older thread here discusses materials, hardening etc.

 

[Stonepark]

Back end of a quality drill bit is an inexpensive source, as is a good bolt in A2 meeting 4014 specs if you prefer stainless.

[TIGHTCHOKE]

I have used no 6 drifts in the past.

[Dazv]

Brilliant thanks for the advice guys! 

[London Best]

I have always made firing pins from Silver Steel.  
Heat to cherry red and quench to harden.  
Polish bright then heat gently watching the colours run until the tip is purple/blue to temper.
Polish bright. 
I have never had one of these break.

 

[Dazv]

Thanks! I’ve just ordered some silver steel! 

[wisdom]

I made one out of a hardened steel bolt it's still going strong.It was machined on a lathe slowly with plenty of coolant.

[NoBodyImportant]

P20 is the steel of choice.  

[Dazv]

Thanks again guys! 

[Gunman]

You do not specify the make of gun , I wish people gave a bit more info when asking questions , so in general terms .

I have used different steels over the years and I have made hundreds  of strikers for all makes and models of guns . Normally I have used standard silver steel stock left untreated without any problem at all .At a pinch  have used high tensile bolts as well as old drill bits , but this was in the minority .

[ditchman]

just an observation here...........i've had a number of firing pins break over the years and these were original pins with the gun.........my local gunsmith....always made the replacements...........which NEVER failed.........which led me to believe that gunsmith made pins were always better than original pins...seems the original pins tend to be on the too brittle side.....

just my opinion ...

[Salopian]

I have to agree with both Gunman and LondonBest  to a certain degree .

I too have made replacement pins from silver steel , left untreated after turning and as yet have never had a failure .

I have on occassions turned down a capscrew (allenbolt!) and they have been successful .

But going back to my apprentice days , learning to manufacture chisels and punches I was taught to use exactly the method that LondonBest describes in his above post .

Think of it like this , 'Your hammer in the gun is striking a punch (firing pin) onto a soft brass plated or copper anvil in the primer , so the only real damage the pin should suffer is from mushrooming of the face struck by the hammer ' if you service your gun annually (like you ought to) any damage will be observed and can easily be rectified.