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Preserving rot patten in wood.


chrisjpainter
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I had cause to fell an ash the other day. Whilst doing the cutting up afterwards, one of the boughs had rot in it which gave a great representation of Batman. My 9 year old nephew's a batman fan and would love the ring of wood, but is there any way of preserving it so the rot is permanent in that shape, or would it be permanent in this shape now it's been felled anyway? any ideas for treating it too? thanks!

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Chris, could you cast it into clear resin, my boy has done a few wood table tops which he covered in a poured clear resin. Been a few years since he done any now but they came out very well. He done one of a rotten and burnt wood and it was all sealed without any disturbance of the wood. 

He said a bit of an art to mixing and not getting any bubbles in it.

Loads of vids on Tubeyou!

 

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9 minutes ago, 7daysinaweek said:

Chris, could you cast it into clear resin, my boy has done a few wood table tops which he covered in a poured clear resin. Been a few years since he done any now but they came out very well. He done one of a rotten and burnt wood and it was all sealed without any disturbance of the wood. 

He said a bit of an art to mixing and not getting any bubbles in it.

Loads of vids on Tubeyou!

 

Ah that's most useful, thanks. That's the kind of thing I'm hoping to be able to do.

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This is perhaps the best way of stabilising wood. Many pen turners stabilise punky wood that is otherwise useless.

Basically, it sucks all the air out of the wood and replaces it with resin. It is then baked to set the resin.

There are people that offer this as a service as the equipment and resins are not cheap.

 

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You can use stabilizer without all that equipment but only in small pieces. I did some spalted wood for knife handles a couple of years back with success.   I think ditchies idea may be the way to go. You need something to soak in and I don't think epoxy will do that. Will stand corrected as I have never used it.

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9 hours ago, ditchman said:

maybe get a good quality varnish and cut it back by 70%.....making sure first the wood is tinder dry and warm from the airing cupboard...and feed that in several times 

 

7 hours ago, Walker570 said:

You can use stabilizer without all that equipment but only in small pieces. I did some spalted wood for knife handles a couple of years back with success.   I think ditchies idea may be the way to go. You need something to soak in and I don't think epoxy will do that. Will stand corrected as I have never used it.

Thanks chaps. the disc's only about 1 1/2" thick and 9" in diameter, so that should work pretty well.  Drying it out shouldn't be too much of a problem. Is there mileage in using the oven? Ours stays warm for a good while after dinner's been cooked and eaten, so an hour in the oven post dinner cooking might help with the drying?

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5 hours ago, ditchman said:

no .....do it slow....as it might upset the resin in the wood if done too quick....maybe ontop of a radiator over a day ?

as ditchman said slow    place said timber in a plastic bag and seal place in an airing cupboard or warm place not hot    and every day remove and turn the bag inside out and re do  to reduce moisture     this process limits cracking       a microwave in a bag also works   i prefer slow      70/30 polyurethane   take your time it will be worth it       given said disc  could you put a clock movement  into it for the little feller 

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7 hours ago, Saltings said:

as ditchman said slow    place said timber in a plastic bag and seal place in an airing cupboard or warm place not hot    and every day remove and turn the bag inside out and re do  to reduce moisture     this process limits cracking       a microwave in a bag also works   i prefer slow      70/30 polyurethane   take your time it will be worth it       given said disc  could you put a clock movement  into it for the little feller 

that would be a great idea :good:

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