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No need to crimp when reloading IMHO.

Some people do it, some don't

I don't know anyone that does anymore!

I've tried it and honestly didn't see the point, it didn't make any noticeable difference and it was an extra stage i could cut out of the process.

If your components are of decent quality then you should have no issues!

Your dies resizing button takes care of the correct neck tension for you (about 2thou under bullet dia) that gives enough grip on the bullet in the neck of the case. Also makes it consistent across the board regardless of brass thickness in the neck 

I reload alot 243, 308 and 300 win mag rounds per year :)

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7 hours ago, Jimbo yorks said:

No need to crimp when reloading IMHO.

Some people do it, some don't

I don't know anyone that does anymore!

I've tried it and honestly didn't see the point, it didn't make any noticeable difference and it was an extra stage i could cut out of the process.

If your components are of decent quality then you should have no issues!

Your dies resizing button takes care of the correct neck tension for you (about 2thou under bullet dia) that gives enough grip on the bullet in the neck of the case. Also makes it consistent across the board regardless of brass thickness in the neck 

I reload alot 243, 308 and 300 win mag rounds per year

👍

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@davewh100

If your new to reloading try and keep everything as simple as possible, keep all processes as basic as you can. Full length resize, trim cases to the same length, clean primer pockets, de-bur inside and outside neck, no real need to tumble/clean cases other than presentation. 

 

And one other VERY important tool in your process is a note book that EVERTHING you do is noted down. 

If your developing a load, load 1 dummy round less primer & right with permanent marker on the case a reference to note book. 

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5 hours ago, Dougy said:

@davewh100

If your new to reloading try and keep everything as simple as possible, keep all processes as basic as you can. Full length resize, trim cases to the same length, clean primer pockets, de-bur inside and outside neck, no real need to tumble/clean cases other than presentation. 

 

And one other VERY important tool in your process is a note book that EVERTHING you do is noted down. 

If your developing a load, load 1 dummy round less primer & right with permanent marker on the case a reference to note book. 

thanks Dougy yeah I'm keeping it very basic  as you say Writing everything down, made 2 sample rounds in 223 and 243 less the primers, I'm usein vihtavuori N160 75g v-max in the 243 but looking at load data from the hornady and vihtavuori site both given totally different start and max loads may need be more research 

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3 hours ago, davewh100 said:

thanks Dougy yeah I'm keeping it very basic  as you say Writing everything down, made 2 sample rounds in 223 and 243 less the primers, I'm usein vihtavuori N160 75g v-max in the 243 but looking at load data from the hornady and vihtavuori site both given totally different start and max loads may need be more research 

You will find various min max depending on what book you read, one of the reasons that you work up to max with caution, also be careful when close to max if developing in our colder months. Pressure will increase with some powders in the warmer months. 

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20 minutes ago, Dougy said:

You will find various min max depending on what book you read, one of the reasons that you work up to max with caution, also be careful when close to max if developing in our colder months. Pressure will increase with some powders in the warmer months. 

👍

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I only crimp calibres which will be used in my lever action rifles (with tubular magazine) because of the potential danger of pushing a bullet inside of case under recoil. The 45-70 for example that i reload has a heavy crimp because of the big recoil. Downside to crimping is it reduces brass life span. Standard rifle calibres with bottle neck cases get minimal crimp.

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