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Garden shed base


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20 minutes ago, billytheghillie said:

Next Question, where is the best place to buy from? Also shiplap or tongue and groove. Many Thanks.

18/20mm pressure treated tongue and groove.

even though my shed is on a base and the 2.5" x 2" floor joists are pressure treated and have good ventilation I expect they will eventually start to rot but hopefully after I have gone.

try to source locally from recommendations.

if it comes pressure treated it will be wet, let it dry out and give two or three coats inside and out with this, I can highley recommend it, on a shed that size you may need 4 cans....https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-water-repellent-seal-clear-5ltr/57474?tc=QA8&ds_kid=92700065972061613&ds_rl=1249407&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1245250&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5a2D4Z_x-AIVyuvtCh0X-A7tEAQYASABEgLeO_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Edited by old'un
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So if it comes with a joist and board floor .

Don't bother with the slabs .put a small trench in the ground maybe 4 inches deep and 8 inches wide .and half fill with stone and tamp down  then lay a course or 2 of bricks  on the stone (foundation ) 

All around the perimeter of the shed and one through the middle to support the joists at the mid point  leave a few gaps front and rear to let the air through .lay some weed mat on the grass inside  your walls (don't forget to weed kill it first .)And then plink your shed on top .stepping up into the shed door  .

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Billy I've a shed on my allotment and it is built on a bed of black plastic pallets , when I took it over I but my spirt level on it and it was plum, level and square , I was told it was built 12yrs previous and I've had it 5yrs still good, have a look on FB marketplace ,they are for nowt !

 

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Hello, do you already have the paving slabs ? T and G will always work out better for long term use, A concrete base will always be the best but if you have the slabs it should be pretty straight forward to lay a 12x8 eg 24, then put  riser joists on slabs for air gap and treat joists and bottom of floor again, if you have a gap between sides and floor you can put another length of timber on joist to stop floor bounce, let it settle and give another coat of weather proofer, this forced weather proofing timber I never found good so another coat or 2 will last many years, 

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7 minutes ago, oldypigeonpopper said:

Hello, do you already have the paving slabs ? T and G will always work out better for long term use, A concrete base will always be the best but if you have the slabs it should be pretty straight forward to lay a 12x8 eg 24, then put  riser joists on slabs for air gap and treat joists and bottom of floor again, if you have a gap between sides and floor you can put another length of timber on joist to stop floor bounce, let it settle and give another coat of weather proofer, this forced weather proofing timber I never found good so another coat or 2 will last many years, 

I already have 12 slabs so need 18 more, place near me does 2nd hand ones. Did think about concrete but to pricey compared with slabs.

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I do the same as above a base of slabs then up a foot of the ground on bricks to let the air threw and stop any vermin . But i remember all my dads hen hutches he just had them raised off  the ground  on bricks and no weeds grew under then as it was so dry underneath them 

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