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Another Dacia Duster problem


30-6
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Well " Betsy " ( all my cars have been named Betsy ), is playing up again. Petrol gauge problem seems to be ok at the moment.

A symbol came and went on dashboard of a circle with a diagonal line. Then instead of saying " all systems ok " on startup when key is tuned to position 1, it has intermittently said " check start / stop ", and the stop start switch lighting up without being pressed, then starting like a weak battery sound. This has happened twice in two days. 

First thing I do when the car is running is shut stop start off normally , and I run the car on " eco ".

A Google of the symptoms point to a new special expensive battery with a software update.Dealerships are pushing our normal garages out of business. With all these new fandangled accessories on newer cars.

Anyone else gone through this with a suggestion, or is it the dealership route.

 

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How old is the car ?
Stop start battery problems are very common, the low voltage in a failing battery can cause all kinds of ECU problems.
Yes they cost around 3 x more than a normal battery, and yes they dont last half as long as a normal battery, and no you cant fit a normal battery, the higher charge rates from the stop/start alternator would fry it in short order.
Shelling out for a new battery would likely solve all your problems.

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My nephew has a Suzuki Swift with stop start feature,and didn’t want to pay extra for the battery,so fitted a standard £50 battery,he has had no problems with it after a year or two so far. It’s a shame manufacturers have these stupid features on cars,it just puts extra wear on starter motors and batteries,just to save pennies in fuel.

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On 24/09/2024 at 11:44, 30-6 said:

Just put a meter on the battery, car not running, EFB 60 amp battery showing 12.34 v

Car is 19 plate 5 years old.

Ive just put a meter on a S/S battery I know to be 'worn out' it reads 12.8 volts, the battery was taken off a vehicle with similar faults to yours, and it cured everything.
If the battery hasnt been replaced in 5 years, its well past its serviceable life.

 

On 24/09/2024 at 11:44, 30-6 said:

So is a dealership the only option, to do software ?

It may not even need a software update, but it may need faults erasing off the ECU, any diagnostic place should be able to do this.

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47 minutes ago, Rewulf said:

Ive just put a meter on a S/S battery I know to be 'worn out' it reads 12.8 volts, the battery was taken off a vehicle with similar faults to yours, and it cured everything.
If the battery hasnt been replaced in 5 years, its well past its serviceable life.

What Rewulf said. 
A 12v battery reading 12v is dead. 
A good one can read up to nearly 15v.

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I've been out in the car on a 22 mile round trip, parked twice so 3 starts from home and back. Nothing running heaters etc.

Stop / start feature turned off, eco mode turned off ( which had been on ) .

Pulled up outside house, car not running, put meter on battery, now showing 12.51 v.

Going to try without eco for a while just out of curiosity.

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On 27/09/2024 at 17:25, 30-6 said:

Pulled up outside house, car not running, put meter on battery, now showing 12.51 v.

That's within expected range - 12.6 V should be about normal for a charged battery with the engine off.

Honestly though there's only so much a volt meter can tell you. You need a 'drop test' - although these days they're slightly more sophisticated.  This will determine the state of health of the battery.

Then...you also need to determine what caused the battery to fail.  No good just replacing the battery if the charging system isn't doing its job.  I find one of these useful as you can monitor the voltage whilst actually driving.  In the past, an alternator would output 14.4 V when charging properly, but the situation is more complex now, youtube is your friend.

 

 

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9 minutes ago, RCB56 said:

You don't see any garage's use a drop tester these days.

Slightly more sophisticated version today. 
My battery supplier, County Batteries, uses one and also does a cranking test. My last knackered battery, 2 1/2 years ago, was showing just about acceptable voltage but the cranking amps(?) was over 20% down. The battery had only failed to start the engine once. That was enough for me to replace it immediately. No starting handles these days!

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21 hours ago, RCB56 said:

You don't see any garage's use a drop tester these days.

Really ? How do they test a battery under starting load then ?
The drop test simulates the strain on the battery when cranking the engine, it can tell you a lot about the health of the battery.
I use 2 different types, the old style 'prodders' , and a more modern crocodile clip on meter.

Voltages are deceptive on S/S batteries, that 12.5v static on an old non S/S unit would indicate a perfectly adequate performance, and charging of 13.5-14.5v would be no issue, but S/S units need more, and the ability to sustain higher voltages, this is where it all starts going wrong, and batteries, alternators and starters dont last like they used to, its all a bit of a scam really, as all aspects of S/S systems are vastly more expensive.

The problem with drops in voltage is that they throw up fault codes on the ECU, this can lead to poorer engine performance and even limp mode in some situations.

 

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Hi 30-6, i had a 2013 Dacia Duster for 5 years, which gave me no problems at all, ....then bought a 2018 one in June 2023, i had a pretty serious electrical fault in Oct 2023 and the electrical mechanic had a big bit of work to get it sorted, then last July , I had to put a new starter motor in, the 2nd one in less than a year. No idea why. 

Cheers. Aled

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Coincidence or not I don't know. I shut " eco " off, and fingers crossed it seems ok at the moment.

My friend was told by a RAC technician "Noco boost plus " , as sold by Amazon,is a good idea to carry in the car.

Anyone heard or uses one of these ?

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