Multi-Chokes Identification

[colin]

Hi all,

 

Just bought my first shotgun (Lanber O/U sporting M/C) and went off down to Garlands shooting ground to try it out, I shot about 25 out of 75 clays on the skeet range and really enjoyed the shoot.

 

I was asked by the trainer/supervisor what cartridges i was using and he advised me to use 8,s instead of my 6,s (which is advice i will take without question), the problem arose when he advised me to use a quarter choke in barrel 1 and a half choke in barrel 2 as when i got home and cleaned up i found that none of the chokes had any markings other than notches on the top.

 

After looking at the user guide i was disappointed to find no explaination as to what chokes were what.

 

In the user guide there is a diagram of five circles representing the five chokes and are numbered from left to right as follows: 0 4 3 2 1 (the numbers represent the amount of notches marked on each choke.

 

I would be grateful if someone could please help me out.

 

Thanks Colin

[chrisv]

Colin,

Not sure if your chokes use the same system, but Beretta and Browning seem to use the "more lines = less choke" system. i.e. 5 lines is Skeet choke, one line is full choke.

To check if yours go the same way, look at the outer rim which would be showing when the choke is screwed into the gun. The tightest choke should have a noticeably thicker rim, so a smaller internal diameter.

Hope this helps

Chris

[chrisv]

Colin,

I should have said that on Brownings at least, the exception to the rule is No Notches which is cylinder and therefore the most open of the lot.

For Skeet I would use the most open chokes I have, but I'm a **** shot and need all the help I can get!

Chris

[jimdfish]

Colin

If you are still not sure you can buy a choke gauge (about ten quid ) which you can attach to the zip of your gun bag. About 2 inches long it just slides down the choke and tells you. If you have ever seen a jewellers gauge for measuring rings it is very similar but smaller.

jimDfish

[barrie0]

Colin if you go here .

 

http://www.lanber.net/in/lanber.html

 

Click the care and maintenance link ,then over and under link you can download the lanber universal manual in pdf form . You will need the free program adobe acrobat reader , http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html .

 

A good read comes up with

 

* Full

** 3/4

*** 1/2

**** 1/4

None cyl

 

So reading more, 1=*,2=** ,3=***,4=****,0=cyl

 

 

My lanber is a fixed 1/4+1/2 and the markings on my barrels are **** + ***

[colin]

Colin if you go here .

 

http://www.lanber.net/in/lanber.html

 

Click the care and maintenance link ,then over and under link you can download the lanber universal manual in pdf form . You will need the free program adobe acrobat reader , http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html .

 

A good read comes up with

 

* Full

** 3/4

*** 1/2

**** 1/4

None  cyl

 

So reading more, 1=*,2=** ,3=***,4=****,0=cyl 

 

 

My lanber is a fixed 1/4+1/2 and the markings on my barrels are **** + ***

Thankyou very much...will go and change them now.

[white fox]

I have never used multi chokes in 20 years of shooting, and have never thought I had the need.

 

I always thought they were more use on clays where the type of target (skeet, sporting and DTL) dictated the different use of choke, I used to shoot clays about 10 years ago on all these target types and never felt compromised with my 1/4 & 1/2 fixed chokes. Wheras the the serious clay guys were always fiddling around with chokes and more often than not, blaming the choke for missing the target, rather than concentrating on placing the shot in the right place in front of the moving target.

 

My experience shooting white bars is many are shot at very close range but equally there are a number of challenging long range shots, crossers or going away, that we take and kill; a little bit different with driven pheasants. Unlike clays, you have no way of knowing where the birds will be flying, and how far away, when you squeeze the trigger.

 

The advice from Garlands for 1/4 and 1/2 in my opinion is just right

 

Perhaps a poll on this forum would be interesting to see if chokes have really helped.

 

What do you think?

[digger]

i have a berretta that has multi choke (al391).if i had a day were i missed a lot then i would change the choke next time out.if i shot better id be happy,till next time.soon realised that i dont shoot consistently every time so know its a case of bad workman blaming the tool.havent changed it in a year and dont intend to.

[lurcherboy]

I was told by my instructor a good few years ago that if you could shoot accurately you did not need choke.

 

I use mine often

[B_GINNER]

Hi all,

 

I have recently started taking lessons in clay shooting, my instructor has advised to leave my multichoked beretta 686 at true cylinder and 1/4 choke.

 

The reason made sense and i will follow the advice at least until my hit consistency is much higher, currently only about 50-55%.

 

I am currently shooting english sporting clays.

[the last engineer]

B-GINNER, hope you had a lot of fun shooting skeet,may i offer a little advice,

if you are going to shoot skeet continualy for practice/pleasure or both , put

the same chokes in both barrels be it true cylinder or skeet (open or 1/4)

this will give you a consistent pattern for both shots ,high and low house,understand the targets dont change "YOU DO" as you navigate the field ,but the distance you are shooting falls inside the high and low house . 21 yards to the center most of your kills will be inside 25 yards , i teach skeet a lot here and after the initial few rounds to get aquainted people enjoy it immensly,.

 

also try this, as you better your kill ratio and are comfortable tighten your choke, this will increase your accuracy of muzzle to target you'l find those ink dots are cool when you destroy a target,it'l keep you honest ..

 

good shooting all

martin