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Anyone stripped * re-varnished their stock ?


Gavo
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Hello

 

Yes I have just done my AA S410c Sanded it down and i have reshaped the stock to customise it a little. Start with rough sand paper and then work your way down until you get to the fineds wet and dry paper (using it dry). Once you have the desired finish dust it doen and then apply as stain of your choice and lwave foe 24hrs. Then apply several coats of french polish.

 

Mine has come up a treat.

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Hello

 

Yes I have just done my AA S410c Sanded it down and i have reshaped the stock to customise it a little. Start with rough sand paper and then work your way down until you get to the fineds wet and dry paper (using it dry). Once you have the desired finish dust it doen and then apply as stain of your choice and lwave foe 24hrs. Then apply several coats of french polish.

 

Mine has come up a treat.

 

Thanks for that. Can you not also use some sort of stripper fluid to remove the existing varnish to make sanding a little easier ? Also, have you got any pics of your finished s410 ? Thanks :yes:

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As others have said, nitromoors to get rid of the old varnish, I lay the stock on a plastic bin bag, apply the nitromoors then fold the bin bag over. This stops it drying out. Then put the stock into a bucket of soapy water and rub down with 0000 guage wire wool. This will help to raise the grain and get rid of any residue. Dry and rub down with fine wet and dry followed by dry 0000 wire wool until smooth.

 

Personally I use Birchwood Casey Tru Oil to finish, there are some pics of my S410 done this way here if you would like to see the finished result.

 

Cheers

 

Dan

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As others have said, nitromoors to get rid of the old varnish, I lay the stock on a plastic bin bag, apply the nitromoors then fold the bin bag over. This stops it drying out. Then put the stock into a bucket of soapy water and rub down with 0000 guage wire wool. This will help to raise the grain and get rid of any residue. Dry and rub down with fine wet and dry followed by dry 0000 wire wool until smooth.

 

Personally I use Birchwood Casey Tru Oil to finish, there are some pics of my S410 done this way here if you would like to see the finished result.

 

Cheers

 

Dan

 

Thats very nice Dan :good: was looking at the Tru-Oil packs on ebay & its quite reasonable for the 3 bottle pack with papers & wire-wool etc, about £13.00 I think it was.

Defo the way to go as I've already got some nitromors in the garage so just the oil to get & I'll give it a bash.

 

Once again thanks to all who posted & helped with this ???

 

Gavo

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Hi, please don't use french polish:-as an antique restorer I can tell you that although it looks brilliant when done , it's very fragile. Varnish will sit on top of the surface and so can eventually peel, oil is the way to go. Be patient, use a finishing oil suitable for kitchens made by Liberon - there is a saying once a day fora week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year. Actually 6 applications should do a lovely job. Use an old linen tea towel to apply (no lint) wipe off all residue after 10 mins, wait until the next day to re apply. Oil sinks in and so can't peel. Be careful with the stain, as it's designed to be applied to bare wood it sinks right in so if you don't like it your stuffed. Good luck.

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I stripped my HW35 with wickes finest paint and varnish stripper and then used sand paper to rough it down, then I used finer and finer wire wool until it was as smooth as !

I then used two different water colours, can`t remember which, to get the colour I wantedI used the flat of the butt to test the colours and that way the recoil pad would cover any I didn`t like :good:

I then used boiled linseed oil to get a nice durable finish.

 

IMG_0035.jpg

 

IMG_0036.jpg

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