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What's the Best Choking for clays?


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1/4 & 1/2. for sporting clays.

3/4 & full for dtl.

cyl or skeet for skeet

but whatever choke you use not a lot of difference for sporting

the tighter the choke the longer the shotstring.

so one advantage outweighs the other

my winchester 101 is fixed choke 1/4 & 3/8ths.

I use it for everything.

Edited by peter-peter
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Nowt wrong with using full chokes for sporting.. abit much for DTL/Skeet at first, but you will get used to it quite quickly and will never need to worry about them again, as long as you get good at quick target acquisition there won't be a problem with close up birds.

 

and one day when you upgrade the full for a 3/4 or 1/2 you will be such a good shot you'll probably never miss again :good:

Edited by Shuck.
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Up until today i had been using 1/4 and 1/2 chokes for sporting with decent results.

 

Changed them to 1/2 and 3/4 today for a 100 round at Worsley and kept the 1/4 on hand just incase. The chokes performed well and although i missed some close in birds that i would have broken with more open chokes, i broke many more distant birds much more convincingly. A fair trade off in my opinion :good:

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Up until today i had been using 1/4 and 1/2 chokes for sporting with decent results.

 

Changed them to 1/2 and 3/4 today for a 100 round at Worsley and kept the 1/4 on hand just incase. The chokes performed well and although i missed some close in birds that i would have broken with more open chokes, i broke many more distant birds much more convincingly. A fair trade off in my opinion :good:

 

Do you get more points for breaking the clay into smaller bits? :no: So to simplify your comments you think you scored lower today then if you have used your normal choke setup? Just curious, it's seems an odd reasoning, unless i've misread your post of course.

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Do you get more points for breaking the clay into smaller bits? :angry: So to simplify your comments you think you scored lower today then if you have used your normal choke setup? Just curious, it's seems an odd reasoning, unless i've misread your post of course.

 

I don't think that you misread it, i just don't think that i wrote it right in the first place :no:

 

What i meant was that although i missed a couple of easy birds that more open chokes would have killed, i killed a lot of mid range and longer range birds that a more open choke could/would have missed.

 

Hope that makes a bit more sense :good:

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Ah, that's not how i read it, well makes sense then. :good:

 

Oh and to the original poster, i'm on skeet & 1/4 in my O/U and 1/4 in the pump. The 1/4 was doing a good job on some 40 yard going away edge-on birds today.

 

I think the point here is, if you're new enough to the sport to ask "What choke" then go a little more open, find your feet on the easier/closer stuff first.

 

As NickyT has suggested, tighter chokes work more consistently on distance birds but being new your not necessarily going to know how to shoot those yet, and there's no sense missing the easier ones at this stage and knocking your confidence. Build yourself up then tighten up the chokes when you feel comfortable.

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ok As Ive posted somewhere else on the board. I have just purchased a Beretta 686e 30" but have been borrowing a fixed silpig 28". I am still a beginner having shot around 1000 carts only. Not having much success with the new gun especially when I first used it[ longer heavier and choked differently oh and not to mention im not that good.].

 

I am shooting tomorrow where there isnt many targets too far out most 25-35yds? My chokes have arrived and thinking of putting skeet in the bottom barrel and 1/4 in top barrel.

 

 

Or should I go for 1/4 and 1/2 :good:

 

Like the original poster I dont want to get too hung up on chokes as Im still strugling with the gun mount etc. Have arranged a bit of tuition in the next week or two.

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I recently pattern tested my new gun and i advice you try the same with various chokes and ranges if you get the opportunity

Its truly a eye opener , You would be amazed as to what a difference chokes actually make with the difference between 1/4 and 1/2 @ the same range being vast

i have read lots about this matter and tbh many words don't make an explanation !

See it with your own eyes from your own gun and it makes it clear as day

BTW im on 1/4 and 1/2 @ the mo but if its a long way out i tighten up ...

And on very close birds i open up ,skeet bladders them close crossers and rabbits

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  • 3 weeks later...
Guest cookoff013

i`m shooting 2 guns at the moment.

ist is a mk 70 sport. with 1/2 and 3/4 in. it hits the on edge birds, i can use most types of cartridges and still get what i call `enough dusting`

i`ve used 21g, and 30g for clays and had the same success.

 

my other gun is a sxs. and is labelled 1/2 and 1/1. however the are actually more like 3/4 and xfull. i get the same percentage kills with either gun. with any cartridge. (exept the DJs)

 

choke isnt about distance. (well sort of.) i can connect with edge on targets at distance and have the same breaks.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Shot the world beretta and shot the whole shoot with 1/4- 1/4 in my 682 gold E the furthest target which was set to sort out the big boys was a crosser at 50 yards edge on and i hit two out of four with 71/2 eley superbs many shooters were swoping to full and missing more than i did so i think i will stick to 1/4 1/4 for clays and change shot size as required.

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  • 6 years later...

Been shooting since i could carry gun would not profess to be an expert or crack shot but still cannot understand why u put different chokes in top and bottom barrel ,i know some of u will also swop barrel selection on stands which to me is just something else to worry about i use a Beretta Lioness Semi-Auto because recoil problems and shoot quarter at clays and half at pigeons because i dont like walkers,. i try to use 6.5s at clays and 5s at pigeons Only Mr Digweed needs full because hes not human hes a robot All though i do agree tight chokes make u concentrate more Ps we practice at Roundwood where u can shoot clays as far out as u like sixty seventy yds quarter breaks everything 9s thru skeet choke will dust the high tower which i think is the highest in the country brilliant targets a bad day shooting is better than a good day at work HAPPY DAYS

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Just fitted extended Teagues to my Browning 525, 3/8 in both barrels as recommended by a friend who is a very good competition shooter. It's between 1/2 and 1/4 so I guess it makes sense. At my skill level i'll doubt i'll notice any difference, but I can see how having both the same is one less thing to think about.

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Been shooting since i could carry gun would not profess to be an expert or crack shot but still cannot understand why u put different chokes in top and bottom barrel ,i know some of u will also swop barrel selection on stands which to me is just something else to worry about i use a Beretta Lioness Semi-Auto because recoil problems and shoot quarter at clays and half at pigeons because i dont like walkers,. i try to use 6.5s at clays and 5s at pigeons Only Mr Digweed needs full because hes not human hes a robot All though i do agree tight chokes make u concentrate more Ps we practice at Roundwood where u can shoot clays as far out as u like sixty seventy yds quarter breaks everything 9s thru skeet choke will dust the high tower which i think is the highest in the country brilliant targets a bad day shooting is better than a good day at work HAPPY DAYS

 

If you understand and accept that chokes will open or decrease the size of the pattern then seeing the purpose in using different chokes in different barrels should be completely easy to absorb. Many stands feature clays which are at vastly different ranges, tackling the close one with a tight choke is senseless if you have a choice, conversely throwing an open pattern at a 60 yard edge on Teal type clay is pointless if you have the choice of going tighter, what's not to like ?

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lol chokes have probably changed lots since the original post!!!!

But fixed ideas remain the same. I've lost count of the number of posts I've seen on various forums as well as regular comments from club shooters claiming skeet or 1/4 (or even cylinder!) choke will break any sporting target you'll ever see. No doubt such chokes will work sometimes on the edgy 50 yarder, but not always. Thanks to the gaps in the pattern from open chokes, some long targets will fly on unbroken even if the shot is in the right place.

 

Hamster might know more but I'd take an educated guess that hardly anyone above 'B' class in registered sporting is relying on less than 1/2 choke for the the long targets.

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But fixed ideas remain the same. I've lost count of the number of posts I've seen on various forums as well as regular comments from club shooters claiming skeet or 1/4 (or even cylinder!) choke will break any sporting target you'll ever see. No doubt such chokes will work sometimes on the edgy 50 yarder, but not always. Thanks to the gaps in the pattern from open chokes, some long targets will fly on unbroken even if the shot is in the right place.

 

Hamster might know more but I'd take an educated guess that hardly anyone above 'B' class in registered sporting is relying on less than 1/2 choke for the the long targets.

 

And you'd be right :good: funny enough just yesterday I was watching a good friend obliterate some hard targets and my mind fused on the undeniable reality that despite all the one liners and oft repeated quotes about open chokes being good for everyfing :rolleyes: they simply aren't reliable enough hence next to no serious shot uses less than half (on even closish birds) which has incidentally through extended pattern tests as well as practical shooting been found to be the best rounder, affording just enough margin for error combined with more than enough mincing ability on all but very long going aways.

 

To make valid judgements on chokes you need to be interested in the subject to the point that watching others breaks and noting subtle differences becomes almost a hobby. Those who declare that 1/4 is all they need because they once hit 5 long crossers in a row simply haven't shot and missed enough targets, or my least favourite saying : I know I never miss because of my Full or 1/4 choke (how on earth would you know that), and besides I can prove in ten seconds that you do, will and have. ;)

 

My advice is always to start with open for a few months but move tighter and tighter till you can go no more, I'm at 3/4 but find 1/2 a tad more liveable on most targets, when I can go F/F I will know I have arrived.

Edited by Hamster
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Actually this was a very interested threads, thanks to whomever reanimated it :-)

 

I'm a complete newbie, and I shoot with a trap gun, Miroku 3800 with a full and 3/4 fixed choke. I know that technically I'm making life harder for myself -- however it's quite satisfying to know that when I nail one, it's not chance, and when I get good with /that/ I'll be blasting anything out of the sky whenever I shoot anything more open, eventually...

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As I said way back in '09, I use 1/4 & 3/8, (not quite a half choke) in my O/U and I've never found the need to use anything tighter.

 

I've tried tighter chokes but they don't work for me, I definitely get better quality breaks using more open chokes.

 

You simply don't need 3/4 & Full with modern plaswad loaded ammo, fact.

 

Cat.

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