ChAoS
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Posts posted by ChAoS
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Our batteries do have to be charged on a trickle charger
So why does it state on the battery "constant voltage charge" and "initial current 2.1A"? This sounds like a bog-standard lead acid gel battery which should self-limit if placed on a constant voltage supply.
I see no reason why this battery should be trickle charged.
Am I missing something, here?
Regards,
Mark.
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I'm a web developer/designer so know all this boring stuff!
Excellent! So, perhaps, you can tell me whether my guess is right. I reckon it's the last step that's the problem:
The handshake begins when a client connects to a TLS-enabled server requesting a secure connection and presents a list of supported cipher suites (ciphers and hash functions).
From this list, the server picks a cipher and hash function that it also supports and notifies the client of the decision.
The server usually then sends back its identification in the form of a digital certificate. The certificate contains the server name, the trusted certificate authority (CA) and the server's public encryption key.
The client confirms the validity of the certificate before proceeding.
I reckon that they've merely got to add "pigeonwatch" to the list that "gunwatch" is on. (In other words, it's nothing to do with the HTTP versus HTTPS but, rather, that the certificate isn't valid for *both* web sites.)
Regards,
Mark.
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Auto update installed a new version of firefox and now when logging on I get a message saying that PW has an insecure connection. https doesnt appear to be enabled. Can anybody throw any light on this ?
Pushing the "Advanced" button displays this:
forums.pigeonwatch.co.uk uses an invalid security certificate. The certificate is only valid for the following names: www.gunwatch.co.uk, gunwatch.co.uk Error code: SSL_ERROR_BAD_CERT_DOMAIN
Perhaps this is one for the administrators of this site?Regards,
Mark.
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I'm on the hunt for an Ithaca Model 37 DS Special if anyone know of one.
Perhaps you should speak to the Bosher Of Wabbits - he seems to be able to source *anything*:
http://forums.pigeonwatch.co.uk/forums/user/686-wabbitbosher/
Regards,
Mark.
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Add "site:.uk" to the start of your search text.
There are a few modifiers that you can use in the search text:
http://www.googleguide.com/advanced_operators_reference.html
Regards,
Mark.
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I will faff with this when I next take the M37 to the range.I always line up the top ejector cut out in the barrel with the slot in the receiver and check whilst tightening the mag nut with a jewellers screwdriver, the slightest step will cause a malfunction.
I've had a dodgy arm for the last few weeks and so haven't shot a shotgun for quite a while. Today, I was scheduled to take the '1887 out for a spell, but the meet was canceled. :(
I love my lever action air rifle and the shotgun equivalent would finish my collection off nicely.
For me , it was the other way around.
I acquired an extra couple of slots for a .22lr and .357mag lever-action rifle and had intended to fill both with "cowboy" guns.
However, I found it difficult to find a .22lr "John Wayne" gun that loaded from the side of the receiver and *that's* the reason that I grabbed the Ruger 96/22 when I saw it advertised.
A "Clint Eastwood" .357mag *will* follow at some point, though. (I like the look of the Chiappa 1892 take-down rifle. The weird thing is that's listed as being in .38sp *or* .357mag, but not both. I dunno why that should be.)
Regards,
Mark.
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Well I got my 28" 1887 this week. Can a gun be ugly and very pretty at the same time?
Case colour hardening is well executed, even the steel butt plate. Like most guns I'll need a slip on pad though. Looking forward to giving it a run this weekend.
I hope we'll see some photos or videos, soon.
Just to add that it was this review that made me order the gun!
Uh, oh. That don't bode well... (I hope you have as much fun as *I* do using it.)
Love the wobbly chair :-)
Yeah, it can be a bit of a challenge. Funnily enough, the hard part is setting such stage props up so that they operate well for *any* shooter; PSGers come in all *sorts* of shapes and sizes.
Great thread, didn't pick up on it before today, Mark you may indeed be "chaos" but you do it in style. Trying to resist but a bit tempted by one of these I must say!
I hear you've acquired a new "toy".
Unfortunately, *my* M37 is still not extracting well and so the '1887 has had the most use over the last year or so. (Having said that, I shoot clays once or twice a year and am usually happy if'n I gets over 50%. A few months ago, I managed a 38/50 using my Wingmaster. Must've been a fluke...)
Finally, I am now a "Rifleman"; I've acquired a Ruger 96/22 - a *lever-action* version of the well-known Ruger 10/22. Reports and video will, of course, follow at some point in the future.
Regards,
Mark.
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Too late on the locating lugs on the trigger group - some muppet has already broken them off :( Still, not a load bearing part, so I will groove the front corners of the trigger block and make up a separate locking lug in a sort of H shape.
Darn it...
Action was quite sticky
Oh, *that* ain't right.
it now does the "push the action release and it opens all the way under it's own weight" thing
Woo, hoo!
I'm certainly looking forward to shooting it 😀
You might like to peruse this thread - make sure that you take a look at the photos of a "go faster" M20 on the second page:
http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=276352
Regards,
Mark.
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Oh, *yeah*...I have succumbed...
Two things:
[a] Do some reading before taking the trigger pack out since, as I understand it, the "ears" can break off if it's re-fitted with too much "enthusiasm". (I've never disassembled my M20, so I'm merely relating what I've read on t'Interweb.)
If it's got a Powerpac choke, it might be an idea to surf before firing cartridges with wads that have plastic "petals". Again, I've only used clay rounds in mine, but the Yanks seem to think that the gap between the bore and choke can let the petals expand before leaving the muzzle.
Have fun. No, have *lots* of fun...
Regards,
Mark.
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I got yelled at.
I got told it's unsafe.
I was not happy.
Out of interest, was this sporting or trap? Trap shooters don't seem to like anything that disturbs the shootin' "rythm".
The real safety problem with clay shooting is, I think, the "load two, shoot two" nature of clay shooting. If a clay shooter loads more than two rounds into a gun, then watch out...
As a PSGer I *always* clear the gun (visually inspect chamber and mag, close action, drop hammer, open action, flag in, safety on, point muzzle up or down) after each stand before I leave the box, just as I would after finishing a PSG stage.
My club asks you put a chamber flags in pumps and semi's to show clear but otherwise are fine with them
This is what I'd expect.
Regards,
Mark.
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Any of you guys been yelled at for using a pump on clays?
Never had a problem but I only shoot sporting. I've used pump-, bolt-, lever- and martini-action shotguns.
I do, though, always *ask* if it's OK to use an S.1 gun. (Only ever had one refusal after 'phoning to ask, so I didn't go there again.)
Regards,
Mark.
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great little bestie
I have to say that it worked wonders for *me*. The only downside is that it can take "two to tango"; last time I used it, I had to get the neighbour to turn the handle while I did the hand-down-the-hole-up-to-the-armpit manoeuvre.
Regards,
Mark.
Edit: Perhaps I should have re-phrased that...
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Aldi occasionally sell a bendy, wiry thing a few metres long with a turny handle thingy on the end. I bought one on impluse and have so far used it three or four times to good effect. (It'll go around a P trap if "encouraged".)
Re plunging, a lump of wood with a wet towel round it worked for me.
So far, though, it's *always* ended with me having to get me hand down the drain... :(
Regards,
Mark.
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My favourite FW video (Burgess folding 12g):
Regards,
Mark.
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I sent you a couple of PMs. Did you get them?
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The barrel is screw cut 1/2unf
Ah, I thought it might be. However, I was aware that it *could've* been UNEF.
I've been using a huggett belita off one of my air guns on it to keep the length down!
Yeah, I've a few 1/2" UNF SAK mods, myself, for use on air-rifles. I really like 'em cos I don't like long guns.
Works really if I'm honest
I cited this thread to a more knowledgeable friend and he said:
"I could not see wot the chamber spec was. Tight
match chambers are good for accuracy but less good for mini rifle as
they can be fussy about ammo. And need to be kept clean."
I'd really like to see this rifle.
Regards,
Mark.
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Still for sale. Will RFD if needed
I've got to admit that I've a spare slot...
That barrel - is it threaded for a mod and, if so, can you tell me what thread it is? (I assume it'll be 1/2" UNF or UNEF.)
Regards,
Mark.
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Any other suggestions?
Hmmm. Perhaps a Higgins Model 20?
It's the top one in the "Red Neck" photo, above the Chiappa 1887: http://forums.pigeonwatch.co.uk/forums/topic/236687-pump-club/page-10?do=findComment&comment=2067304
These are similar to the High Standard Model 200 but were sold by Sears, Roebuck And Company. Very slick...
...with an "interesting" type of choke. There is a *gap* between the "real" muzzle and the start of the choke. Hence, the Yanks don't recommend firing plaswad cartridges thorugh them or, indeed, anything with "petals" that could expand into that gap.
Regards,
Mark.
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no pics yet?
I'm still at the "investigatin' the new toy" stage, at present. Later, perhaps, I'll post some video - I'm being badgered into using it at Shield.
a lever with a banana mag should be great fun!
Yeah, that's wot *I* thought.
don't worry about the "others" all mainstream and smug, stick with what you like.
I don't and I do.
I'll take weird over boring any day!
Darned right!
Regards,
Mark.
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the yoke is driven with force (shown as being drifted with a hammer and wooden drift) to lock tight up against the magazine cap.
First class bit of research and photos, Impala.
I had heard of the use of the yoke to lock the mag nut elsewhere; I believe that the American military and/or police armourers used to do it. I've not tried it myself.
As far as *my* M37 experience goes, my gun-buddy had extended the slide stop for me and I filed it, fitted it and tried the gun out. It jammed with *every* shot... I had filed enough off of the slide stop so that the action *just* locked up but was, I admit, surprised when it locked solid on firing. Jiggling the slide (bolt carrier) was enough to release it, as normal.
So, upon returning home, I filed a bit *more* off of the slide stop; not a lot - just enough to allow a bit of "jiggle" room.
The next time I tried, it did *not* jam up. (Woo hoo!) Unfortunately, the very first shot failed to extract... (D'oh!) I didn't investigate further due to busyness of the range. I will take a closer look at this the next time I attend a practice session.
This did mean, though, that I had to use my trusty Chiappa 1887 at Shield, last Saturday. What an *excellent* day that was!
Regards,
Mark.
P.S. I don't know if I've posted this, but I now have a rifle: a Ruger 96/22. Old(ish) and viewed as a slightly "weird" choice by other shooters. (Story of my life, reeeely...)
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I will try that as it seems to make some sense, although for the life of me I am not sure why!
If the barrel expands, then it loosens and, by the way, if you tighten it up while the barrel is *hot*, you may find it a bit hard to undo when it cools down.
Do you think that your slide stop issue is affecting headspace?
I *think* that my slide stop was so worn that it was allowing the bolt to come out of battery if I pulled back on the forend.
This is, of course, all conjecture.
I should be very interested in your results when you work the stop to fit. Have you got a measurement in mind for the slide to slide stop spacing?
No. I measured my two DSPS guns which should have been identical and one had, I think, twice the slack of the other between the slide stop and bolt carrier when the action was locked. (Thirty thou versus sixty thou.)
I'm going to merely file the end of the slide stop down until the action locks and the operation "feels" right. I'm assuming, here, that too *little* slack isn't going to cause safety problems. I can't see why it should, though.
Regards,
Mark.
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The gun was hot.
Thing is, because of the way that a '37 retains its barrel, it *slackens* as the barrel heats up and expands.
When shootin' PSG, I always tightened the nut before starting a stage and, afterwards, loosen it *before* the gun cools down.
(Right now, my S.1 M37 is out of action until I can fettle the slide stop after a buddy extended it for me.)
Regards,
Mark.
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You could always get some DVD-RAM disks. (However, you'd have to make sure that the destination device can read them.)
Regards,
Mark.
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Been thinking about a synthetic stock and fore-end for the 37 as do not want to destroy the wood wacking barricades et al during PSG.........long shot is there anything out there?
My M37 stock is cracked (*what* a surprise) and I've been using a Choate stock and forend for a year or so. Stock's OK but feeding the spanner down to take it off and replace it is a pain as they didn't have the sense to create a feed tube - the spanner wanders off into all *sorts* of funny places inside the stock... (Tip: once the spanner is on the stock nut, *don't* take it off until the stock is refitted.) The forend didn't fit at *all* until the end was ground off. Also, it's slippery.
I made a hole in the stock so's I can take it off and replace it without removing the butt pad. On the whole, I much prefer the original wood.
I wouldn't buy a Choate again.
Regards,
Mark.
bulging red hot battery
in Pigeon Decoying Equipment
Posted
It's a long time since I bought a car battery charger but, in the days when I *did*, what they supplied in the way of power tended to be *very* "dirty" indeed. This wasn't a problem for large lead-acid batteries but for small ones... :(
I use quite a few different sizes of SLA batteries and all get charged in one of two ways:
[a] If the "go fasterer" charger isn't in use, I use *that*. It has a special setting for SLAs and you just have to sepecify the terminal voltage. (That is, the number of cells in the battery.)
Else, I set the PSU to 2.3V per cell (13.8V for a 12V lead-acid battery) and let rip. As I said above, the *initial* charge will be high but the battery will self-limit and end up float charging.
I *really* like SLA batteries: cheap, reliable (low self-discharge) and easy to charge. However, compared to the more modern batteries (eg, lithium) they have realtively low capacity and are, of course, heavy.
Regards,
Mark.
P.S. Kudos to A1 for decent customer service. Well done.