Aya stripping

[Metric]

Hi all

I would like to remove the wood from my aya no2 it is a side lock , as their are quite a few marks on the stock. The problem I have is iv never done it before. Can anybody give me some advise on the best way of doing this without parts flying out from the gun when I try and remove the wood. It isn't a cheep gun to start with but I would like to give it a go. Also what is the best method for stripping and oil or wax finish.

Cheers all

Ian.

[simmo90]

I refurbed a spanish boxlock last year including barrel reblue and wood refurb (stock and forend). Can't help you with the sidelock as I am not familiar with the mechanism.

 

As for stripping and oiling the wood, here is the method I use:

 

Apply nitro mors (paint/varnish remover) to the wood and leave around 15 minutes to work. You want to use a good pair of gloves for this as latex gloves just dissolve and your fingers will start to burn. Once 15 minutes are gone, take some 00 grade steel wool to wipe/buff the old finish off. More than likely you will need to repeat this until all the old finish is removed; I think I had to do this process 3 times.

 

Once the old finish is completely removed, get some cotton pads or a clean rag and apply a generous application of white spirit. Rub the wooden parts thoroughly so that the traces of nitro mors are neutralised and the wood is clean. Leave to dry for an hour or two until dry or leave overnight if you want.

 

To sand, use masking tape to protect the checkering on the forend and stock. Once the checkering is protected by the tape, take some 240 grit sand paper and sand smoothly across the areas that are not taped, making sure to GO WITH THE GRAIN.

 

Repeat the sanding process with 320 grit to get a nice smooth finish.

 

Use a tack cloth to fetch any dust off the wood. Rub firmly to make sure all the dust is picked up.

 

Take the masking tape off and go over the wood again, and in the checkering, to make double sure no dust is on the wood.

 

For oiling, personally I would get some Birchwood Casey Tru Oil Gunstock Finish. I swear by this stuff and have used it on two stocks and two forends. I bought a little tub of it and still have a quarter of it left after using it. It's easy to use, cheap, and gives a lovely colour as well as bringing the grain of the wood out very well.

 

To use the oil make sure the wood is free from dust etc. Apply the tru oil generously to the wood with a lint free cloth. The lint free cloth is used as it will not leave any fibres or strands on the oiled wood.

 

Leave the coat of oil to dry. I left mine overnight to ensure that it had properly dried and cured; you could give it less time to dry but I thought it was better to leave it longer and not rush.

 

For the next coat, get some 0000 (ultrafine) grade steel wool and lightly rub the oiled wood all over (make sure to go with the grain). You will get a kind of matte finish after rubbing the wood down with this. This is a very important stage and must be carried out methodically because it allows the next coat of oil to adhere and stick properly on the previous coat of oil.

 

Wipe over with a tack cloth to get rid of dust and steel wool on the wood.

 

Apply the next coat of tru oil with a lint free cloth.

 

Repeat this process until you are left with the desired finish. Just make sure after each coat to rub with 0000 steel wool and wipe down thoroughly with a tack cloth after.

 

Hopefully this helps you. This is the method I learnt and stick to, it has served me well and produced great results.

Edited February 28, 2011 by simmo90

[Metric]

cheers

simmo90