jamesc89 Posted October 6, 2012 Report Share Posted October 6, 2012 I'm a bit concerned as to why my O/U gets very stiff to break when it starts getting warm. Could it be metal expanding? If so what should I have done to it if anything. Its fine when shooting a normal day, a shot every 10-15 mins or so but I've noticed that when shooting clays after 3 or 4 shots it starts becoming very stiff, the hotter it gets the stiffer it is.. What could cause this? I've tried using a little bit of silicone grease and tried standard gun oil to no avail, I don't want to 'flood' the action with oil. Anyone else experienced this or anything similar with their shotgun? Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pigeon pete Posted October 6, 2012 Report Share Posted October 6, 2012 is there any obvious signs of wear on the action ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesc89 Posted October 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2012 Not any wear I could see as a problem, if i break the gun just using the leaver while holding the grip the barrels fall naturally and have to move them about an extra inch without much force, once the guns gets 'warm' the barrels won't release if i were to do the same. I have to put quite a lot of pressure on them to break the barrels to eject the old shells. I'm going clay shooting tomorrow. Will try shooting a few then unload snap the barrels up dry and break them empty and see if it happens. I didn't think to try that until I jus put a couple snap caps in and noticed the gun doesn't shut up properly without force so maybe the ejectors are forcing the empty shell against the action, in fact i'm sure i have a couple empty shells in my jacket so will put one in and see if the gun will shut up and break with an empty spent shell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pigeon pete Posted October 6, 2012 Report Share Posted October 6, 2012 Not any wear I could see as a problem, if i break the gun just using the leaver while holding the grip the barrels fall naturally and have to move them about an extra inch without much force, once the guns gets 'warm' the barrels won't release if i were to do the same. I have to put quite a lot of pressure on them to break the barrels to eject the old shells. I'm going clay shooting tomorrow. Will try shooting a few then unload snap the barrels up dry and break them empty and see if it happens. I didn't think to try that until I jus put a couple snap caps in and noticed the gun doesn't shut up properly without force so maybe the ejectors are forcing the empty shell against the action, in fact i'm sure i have a couple empty shells in my jacket so will put one in and see if the gun will shut up and break with an empty spent shell ok will be interesting to here your findings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesc89 Posted October 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2012 Ok so on closer inspection, the action 'backplate' whatever its called (basically where the pins exit to strike the cartridge) where the bottom pin is a ring has formed (assuming its normal as all of my guns have formed this either before i bought them or as ive used them regular) the is what appears to be scraping which could be the problem. The cartidge must be being forced against the 'back plate' making it hard to break. I wonder why it would do it as its getting hot im going to assume its the ejectors causing the problem. Is there a universal way to disable the ejectors on an ejector? With the foreend removed the barrels seem to move easier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pigeon pete Posted October 6, 2012 Report Share Posted October 6, 2012 Ok so on closer inspection, the action 'backplate' whatever its called (basically where the pins exit to strike the cartridge) where the bottom pin is a ring has formed (assuming its normal as all of my guns have formed this either before i bought them or as ive used them regular) the is what appears to be scraping which could be the problem. The cartidge must be being forced against the 'back plate' making it hard to break. I wonder why it would do it as its getting hot im going to assume its the ejectors causing the problem. Is there a universal way to disable the ejectors on an ejector? With the foreend removed the barrels seem to move easier i know on my Baikal i can turn off the ejectors and there is a vid on youtube where one lad cuts some of his ejector springs down a bit ,but if i was you i would ask someone who knows more about it ,what gun have you got ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesc89 Posted October 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2012 On the barrel its marked "furlib italia", as far as I know Furlib make custom guns, and generally don't have a model as such, sometimes they don't put their mark on the gun at all and usually put the buyers name on the gun instead. I wouldn't say the gun is anything special. Unlike some of their creations so was possible batch made if they ever did make them in that way. I don't have any information on it whatsoever apart from it being a ferlib lol. When the firing pins where replaced the gunsmith said he hasn't seen one of them for a very long time so could possibly be rare Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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