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.philmypower.

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Posts posted by .philmypower.

  1. If ur using Bio oil it is pretty much just veg oil anyway with some anti fling stuff, althou dunno if would make a difference to smoking?Wheres the best place to see these in action? Do they exhibt at any big shows? Just had a look on his website and prices were a lot cheaper than i expected, am i missing something extra i need?When and where is the big forestry show? APF or ATF or something. They hosted it down the road from me a few years ago plenty of big boys toys to ogle at and the timber sports/lumberjacking was great to watchWas meaning to ask how do u do the first cut?While i was searching this stuff a clip on utube with a boy using an aluminium ladder screwed to the top of stem to get a a rest for mill, looked fairly simple or atleast he made it look simple

    A ladder works well or you can get a first cut rail.

    You would need a big saw such as an 880 to power the mill, there about a grand, a normal saw won't do it, Then you need big bars which aren't cheap along with ripping chains. Ripping chains are around £70 each. If using a bar bigger than 36" you would need an auxiliary oiler. The mill and saw will take up to 6 ft in diameter but mine is a 48inch, which has been fine up to now.

  2. the biggest issue would be the fact the chainsaw uses oil to lubricate so you would be smoking with a mix of oil and sawdust so not the best idea.

     

    Milling looks great though!

    Very good point.

     

    Glad you like it sabs.

  3. If anyone wanted the sawdust I'd happily put it aside for them to collect free of charge.

    If you wanted a plank or two kes dro me a pm it's all for sale and were not too far from each other.

  4. That looks fantastic. What do you do with the sawdust that's produced? Is there a market for them as fuel for a smoker?

    I chuck it under the trees on my yard. Think it's too fine for smoking, filled 7 wheel barrows of sawdust milling that log.

  5. Thanks for all the comments guys.

    To answer your questions mike, in the picture I'm using a 36" bar but the saw will run up to a 6ft bar. The saw is 125cc and has a selection of bars but it's allways best to use the smallest bar possible.

    I sharpened the chain to begin, then gave each tooth a quick lick between planks, I also took the depth gauges down a little. To mill with this set up the chain is also different. It's what's called a ripping chain, all the teeth are different sizes and are sharpened at 10 degrees.

    The first cut is the trickiest, after that your away. Each plank took around 3 minuets and boy are they heavy. There all 2" in diameter and 8ft long.

    I work as a tree surgeon and have a log round in my spare time, I was sick of logging stunning bits of timber so bought a mill. I want some oak for my window ledges but will sell most of these planks as I have access to quite a bit of timber so ill mill some for myself when I need it. To be honest I'm not the guy to do this wood justice as my wood work skills are basic, but in the right hands these can be turned into something amazing.

    Have some lovely cedar planks seasoning away and I'm milling 4 big lumps of beech next week, I'm hoping to find something special in the beech such as a bit of spalting & coloring.

  6. Milled oak once seasoned is around £80 a cubic foot if it's good stuff, so each plank would be worth around £150, but I'm not expecting to make anything near that. Just didn't want to throw it in the log pile.

    Looks absolutely fab great to see timber being saved from the fire

    Great stuff thanks for sharing

    All the best

    Of

    Glad you like it. I try not to post too much of my tree work, as I know it's a shooting forum. I was just really happy with the final product and wanted to share the pics.

    Thanks

  7. Couldn't agree more with old farrier. I was fed up of logging beautiful pieces of timber and that's what made me decide to invest in a mill. Although the drying process is a long process, if you did want the timber there and then with no cracking then you can pay to have them kiln dried which takes around 5 days. I'm happy to wait, I've sealed the ends with PVA and there stacked out of direct sunlight to avoid cracking. In my opinion an old oak table or beam looks fantastic with the odd crack in it, adds to the character.

     

    If you wanted to become a tree surgeon you would need cs 30 & 31 which is your basic chainsaw and felling of small trees below 300mm at a minimum to begin with. Once you become more competent you can progress onto big trees, wind blown trees and using a chainsaw from a rope and harness, the list goes on. The more qualified you are the better the pay but you've got to start somewhere.

    I'd say for a lad on the books with no experience you'd be looking at around £50 a day but give it 4 to 5 years if your switched on and got what it takes you could expect around £130 a day.

    If you want pointing in the right direction drop me a pm and I will happily help.

     

    As for the saw dust sabs it's very fine stuff as your cutting with the grain. It's now under the trees but if you want some I'm milling again in a weeks time so I can bag it for you. Or you could stop being a ***** and spend a few quid on some lol.

  8. I've got nothing that length at the moment mate but I am taking down a large dead pine next week. If there's access and the timbers good ill drop you a pm. Milling some more cedar next week but that's only 10ft in length, should get some nice boards out of it though.

  9. We are paying £80 a cube for extensive Burr Oak. Get me some of that please

    What are you doing with it jabb. I presume that's either seasoned or kiln dried and milled?

  10. £35 per cubic foot for good quality Oak, no splits, but that is a trade price.

    If you've got some good heart wood and something special you can get that but you would be pushing it. There are a few web sites who deal in this and some of there prices are even higher.

     

    Not that I'd ever have the joy of owning a bit of kit like that, but a few questions out of curiosity...

    Do you dry the wood? Before or after sawing? How thin can you reasonably go? Do you sell then like in the picture, or square them off? And lastly do you sell them to bespoke kitchen makers / furniture makers or timber yards?

    I'd love to be a tree surgeon/lumberjack, very jealous.

    Really about 1" is as small as I think you'd get away with as it would split too much whilst drying but you can go as thick as 9", you can get an adapter to go bigger but I've not had the need. It's up to you with regards to seasoning. I mill whenever I have the time and stack as I cut, I put roofing batons between each plank and stack it in the shade neatly. It looks and smells great, I'll take a pic for you today. To season you want to keep it out of direct sunlight to avoid splitting and PVA the sides. Once seasoned just run a plane over the boards to get the natural coupler back and treat with a nice oil.

    Being a tree surgeon if felling something nice I offer it as a service, then the customer can get their tree made into a table or something nicer than logs.

    If you have nice planks, you won't struggle to find a home for them. You can also mill posts easy enough, this will make you very popular with your local farmers.

  11. Although the finish is quite good, if using for floorboards they would need reasoning and a sanding down. It's mote suited if you wanted to make your own kitchen. Beach is good, can get some very nice couple ring in it but the sycamore would need treating as woodworm love it.

    If you can get decent diameter oak for 30 quid that's a steal. Once milled you would be looking around 80quid a cubic foot

  12. Looks a very simple set up for milling. I like it.Does it work well? Do u use a special ripping chain on the saw?Any mills i have seen have always been far larger built around a trailer type. Are they dear? (pm if u want cheers)

    It's a 48" alaskan mill and I'm running a 880 on it. The saw is 125cc with a ripping chain sharpened at 10 degrees. Getting the first cut is the tricky bit, but once you've done that with plenty of wedges your away.

    Mill set up is about a grand all in then the saw is that again. Ripping chains are about £70 a piece and you must run a bar with a sprocket on the nose as it gets very hot.

    It's a heavy lump but manageable.

    Should also add it's very addictive.

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