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zeroing a scope


steve3562
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Well done for getting this far with it. If its off it would have showed up when you test fired 3 or 5 shots at a target at the zeroed range?

 

If its off, adjust it until it isnt, then go hunting. If you cant decide whether its off, you tend to need more practice! If its any use my shots are a lot more "wobbly" when I am zeroing a scope than at any other time!

 

Let us know how you get on.

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Don't really understand the problem

 

Make your shooting consistant. Consistancy equals accuracy and vikky verky. Use the same pellets through the same gun at the same type of target at the same distance, shot in the same way.

 

Fire off groups of 5 pellets and then go and look at the target.

 

Adjust the centre of the group to where you want it on the target.

 

Typically, the adjustment on the scope will have an arrow and a letter on it. Either U for 'Up' of L for 'Left' - that kind of thing. Typically, the direction of the arrow will move the line of sight towards the point of impact.

 

1 click is typically 1/4 inch at 100 yards so 10 clicks is 1/4 inch at 10 yards. At 30 yards, 3.3 clicks will shift 1/4 inch. Or thereabout. Unless you are calculating in MOA which is a different game...

 

So, if the centre of the group is 3 inches to the right and 2 inches down you need to go 36 clicks to the left and 24 clicks down. Only adjust one plane at a time though.

 

If you want to get really clever, you should count the amount of clicks from fully left to fully right and fully up to fully down. Centre the reticule and adjust the scope with shims. You can buy these but they are very expensive. You can cut up old 35mm negatives to do it and follow the same principles and these you will find in your house somewhere. This gives you the most stable reticule - typically held in place with springs - and the most adjustment.

 

Is this what you are after? Hope so!

 

RTD

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