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mark1187

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    nr Chichester, West Sussex, UK
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    Married, Aged 47.<br /><br />BASC Member<br /><br />All forms of corvid, pigeon, rabbit and rat shooting.<br />Shotguns, especially moderated, semi-auto's and smaller calibres. Would like a 20b left hooker.<br />Pest control: Ratting with air rifle, small-bore shotguns.<br />Decoying techniques and all gadgets.<br />Anything to do with night vision.<br /><br />Other interests in no specific order: - Food (cooking and dining), beer, wine, computing (PC's, NonStop's/Tandems), engineering, cycling, sea fishing, walking with wife, travel, driving, motorcycling, rural life. Making time for V.tolerant wife<br /><br />Wishlist:<br />Getting FAC. Deer Stalking inc. DSC1/2.

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  1. Hi Salop sniper, I've no experience of dipped guns, but those I have seen do look good! I have tape or cloth on three shotties, see http://forums.pigeonwatch.co.uk/forums/ind...rt=#entry817761 My HW100 was taped around the scope and cylinder up to the sidewheel but is now only taped on the moderator. I now move the scope forward when using night-vision and back for day use. Tape does offer some protection, but as I said in the quoted article, the Jack Pyke stuff sucked up the oil from my forend! Regards, Mark
  2. Hi Folks, My HW100KT currently has two Hawke 11mm dovetail/Weaver adapters mounted. These are the extended HM17017 on the front and the rear block from the HM17013 at the rear. This set-up allows me to switch relatively easily from day to night modes while maintaining comfortable eye relief. At night I am using an Yukon NVMT4 with a DSA on a Viper 3x12-44 with a couple of extra illuminators scope mounted. I would like to fit a low-profile one piece picatinny, preferably covering the front and rear dovetails. This serves the dual role of lowering the mount height and locking/stiffening the action. The mount needs to be able to put up with my top heavy set-up and tolerate the odd knock or bump. There looks like there is enough "meat" on the rear dovetail, when viewed through the cocking slot, but I haven't a clue about the front of the action. Anyone machined their action successfully? If so was this DIY, or by a machine shop/gunsmith? Any help gratefully received, Mark
  3. Scott, I suggest you look at the Natural England site and the terms of the General Licence, we have to comply with to shoot Woodies etc. See WML Gen-L05, Licence to kill or take certain birds to prevent serious damage or disease at http://www.naturalengland.org.uk/Images/WM...5_tcm6-7669.pdf As long as you are not using a Section 5 prohibited weapon, you CAN use a Sect. 1 shottiee. See 2 (ii) and 13(iii). Quote from NE site “ General licences are issued to allow certain actions to be carried out that would otherwise be illegal under the legislation, without the need for people to apply for a specific licence.”. Hope this helps, Mark
  4. Lost the locking cam and bolt from my Yukon NVMT4 DSA. Found the plastic cam but not the other hardware. Phoned the distributor to see if spares were available and said that the unit was second hand/out of warranty. Spoke to Martin who had a hard time understanding what I needed to replace as my unit had been bodged by a previous owner using a nut and bolt. Martin said to email my address, he would take the parts off a stock item and post them on. I received a new pin and bolt in the following days post! Many thanks to Thomas Jacks for providing excellent customer service. Mark
  5. In my view tradition! Also pheasants do not appear to be as gun-wary (where I live) as pigeons and corvids. My main reason for use its to stop the light reflecting off the barrel/s. I use a camo gun-sock on my auto as it has high-gloss bluing. This has been reinforced by cloth-tape around the action as the sock goes loose over time. I have Jack Pyke tape on my old Lincoln and Hushy Norica .410's. These are well used guns and I am not overly worried over their appearance. I used the same tape on my HW100 and yesterday removed what was around the scope/fore-end. The tape had frayed under the fore-end from use and came off in a couple of pieces. As I am looking at new scope mounts I have left the tape on from the barrel support/collar to the end of the silencer. The tape has discoloured the stock, I think this is because it has “wicked” up the oil. There was some stick residue left, but this was buffed off with a lint free cloth. I will re-finish the stock before applying more tape. The Viper scope was unmarked apart from a small amount of residue, the HW100 action was unmarked. Being a lazy g1t the tape has only been removed when the guns get wet. I found the tactile nature of the tape enhanced grip and gave a small amount of protection when resting on door-mirrors etc. I would not use the tape on a magnet as I think it would attract too much dust. Would I use it on a best gun? No, I'd want to show it off! Mark
  6. Hi Glenn, You do not state if you and your mate are members of BASC, CPSA etc., and therefore have some sort of insurance. Proving you have suitable insurance would enhance your prospects, in my opinion. Good luck, Mark
  7. Hi Folks, Recently purchased an NVMT4 (x1) with DSA and an NVMT (x3) for spotting. Any recommendations on batteries? Both units take a CR123A. Duracell do a 1,400 mAh DL123A. Are there any good alternatives e.g. Energiser, Panasonic etc., or unbranded cheap and cheerful? Has anybody tried rechargeable RCR123A's? I have seen 900 mAh but have no idea yet of what sort of run-times to expect. I don't mind paying a premium price for less swapping of batteries, especially mid-session! Any help greatly appreciated, Mark
  8. Yep! Woodies and Collar doves, I like to think it's down to my presentation of the bird on the wire cradle One time after fetching an airgun I saw a lot of movement and thought I don't remember leaving a flapper out! Unfortunately for him his post-coitus nap last longer than expected....... Mark
  9. Burpster, I'm sorted! Phoned the nice people in Wednesbury who supplied my 'pod and Viper. Stuart said they normally carry the newer knurled replacement screw, as people were always losing them! Unfortunately they were currently out of stock, but he still had some of the old style slotted socket head (Allen) cap screws at £1. I normally have a 5/16" (4mm) key in my pocket for my magnet, so not a problem, and nicer than using a coin. Screw turned up today, £1.50 inc pp Thread is quite stiff, but I may nip it with side-cutters to make captive.
  10. Hi Folks, Lost the non-captive screw from the bipod over the weekend. Any recommendations to original parts source in the UK. Found some nice oversized stainless bolts on a Canadian site but they only ship internal. Any help gratefully received, Mark
  11. Thanks all for comments, I will try to sneak a detour into Newport on the way down. Will take SGC just in case it's needed. No fishing this time - all the mono on my reels need replacing. Staying at the New Overlander which is a mile or so away in Penally. Picked this from Laterooms as feedback for accomadation and food both seemed very good. Weather forecast doesnt look good so may have to retire to the bar early. Best wishes, Mark
  12. Hi Folks, Travelling down Tenby Friday, coming back to Chichester on Sunday. Going with wife and another couple, all non-shooters. Interested in any suggestions for places to visit around Tenby and enroute in South Wales. If the GPS gets lost and we travel via a couple of gun shops I wont be too upset. :( Mark
  13. For ease of use you cannot beat the BC targets. I used MS Word to knock up some A4 zeroing targets, before one of the airgun mags gave a link to www.Targetz.com. I find the .5" grids were the most useful. If I'm being lazy and do not want to replace an A4 target I use a 2" x 5" Post-It note with a marker pen cross I used MS Visio to make pattern plates for testing my shotties. Taping six A3 is not too onerous, twelve A4 is pain in the posterior!
  14. Six quid for subs, I wish! Eley subs £7.50 down here ( I have not patterned my Norica Hushpower (see sig. below), but if the results are the same as my Lincoln, ignorance is bliss! I have shot pairs with the Norica but think this it is actually easier for me being a lefty, as I can track the target with my left hand, whilst the right cycles the bolt. I have been waiting for a S/H Mossy 500 to come up in the local shop. My Norica feels like a scaffold pole but it is very quiet. The Mossy 500 mod. is not as long and I would like to know what the difference this makes. Last year I did some not very scientific tests with a digital sound meter and the results as I recall were as follows: HW100KT .22 (dry fired) 60db Anshutz 9mm Garden Gun 69db Norica Hushpower / 3" Eley Magnum subs 82db* Air Arms .22 Springer (dry fired) 89db Norica Hushpower / 3" Eley Magnum 90db* (Don't forget decibels are measured on a logarithmic scale - every 10 dB is a doubling!) One of the reasons I bought the HW100 was how quiet it was , in the local Chi Armoury we had to turn the air con off so we could hear the gun! * I do not have the data to hand but my Lincoln appeared noisier with subs than standard mags. I think the baaaaang is spread over a slightly longer time interval that is only beneficial in a moderated gun. My 9mm Garden gun is very quiet, only a bit noisier than a moderated .22 rimfire. I have Flobert shells in 10's (dust-shot) and 7 1/2s. Luckily I realised a shop had sold me heavier shot before I used them in anger. With the 10's you don't have to worry about damage. With the 7.5's you get nearly 90 pellets and a range of maybe 15 yards. And finally, a single shot or slow second shot is not as bad as it may first appear. With a Hushpower you can take out a steady stream of single birds that would of disappeared without the benefit of a moderator. With 12 bores I use electronic ear defenders, I don't need them when using my Norica. Disadvantages? Norica fits OK in my secondary cabinet but only fits into my primary cab with the aid of Pythagoras )
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