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The Clay Rascal

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Posts posted by The Clay Rascal

  1. as it's old,i think there is a bump stop for the bolt to hit,if that's worn and not working effectivly id the level hitting the back of the reciever slot perhaps,i s'pose it would leave a mark

     

    I second that, is there a gap where the bolt reaches the end of the reciever???? try puting a single layer piece of white plumbers PTFE tape, (its very thin)on the place where they meet! load a shell press the button and see if its left a mark, if it has this could be the problem.

     

    Hope this helps. good luck

  2. As the above post says add in the cost of the amount the clay ground charges and you end up with a not so cheap time. I'm going on Friday morning to a place near me which is £30 for a 100 sporting add in my cartridges that's nearly £60 quid. On the up side I spend less at the pub now./quote]

     

    there must be some knowledgeable guys on here who could set up a little cart manufacturing place and make a small profit with a large turnover to keep some of us happy? would it be that expensive to set up.

  3. Hi all,

     

    I need a pair of ear defenders and wondered what makes I should be looking at. I will be using them for clays and maybe out in the field. I don't want to spend the earth on them, say like £30 max. What would you choose?

     

    Cheers,

    Gareth

     

    Buy the best u can afford,

    lots on here to give u a good idea, search the forums for lots of good advise.

    from a tinitus suferer.

     

    good luck

  4. I have just bought an arrow laser shot off here, sounds similar there are a few can be a good aid to improve gun mount (why i just bought an arrow) from the description it sounds like a snap cap with a laser pointer in it. How much is one?

     

    Just seen £40 on ebay cheape rthan the arrow laser shot which is SRP £119.50

     

    EDIT: not sure how well it would work in a semi tho........

     

    I was hoping someone on here had used one, so I would'nt be wasting my doh

  5. Hi Any one used one of these, any reviews would be helpful,

    'Spot-On' 12g Shotgun Laser BoresighterCan be used on 12g shotguns only

    -Lightweight design

    -Excellent quality with brilliant laser

     

    Really simple yet effective design.

     

    Insert batteries (supplied) and insert into your chamber as you would with a cartridge. Close the gun and the unit will power on, shining a red laser down the bore and onto any surfect, allowing you to check the aim

     

    Much better than other (more expensive) boresighters which attach to the other end, this one gives true aim, the full length of the barrel.

     

     

     

     

    Cheers Mick

  6. Hello,

     

    Let me introduce myself shortly. I'm a 41 year old man from the Netherlands (sorry, if my English is not so good) and a newbie in clay-shooting. I've done some hunting in my youth, but mostly shoot with my Rem700 and handguns. I've tried clay-shooting a few weeks a go with some friends and I'm "hooked"! Only problem I run in to is that my cheek gets bruised when I use the guns which belong to the range. Because I'm quiet tall (1.93 mtr), I need a gun with a long length of pull en a stock bend a little to the right. Last week I went to a gun-shop and found a nice '82 Miroku 3800 12 Ga (Browning serial number) in good conditions that "fits like a glove". Also for a reasonable price (€499) that I want to use for Trap and Compact. It has 1/2 and 3/4 fixed chokes, so here are the questions:

     

    Does someone have experience with shooting steel from this kind of gun? Which weight's and size (cartridges)? Standard or High Velocity? Shot pattern?

     

    Thanks in advance,

     

    Ronald

     

    PS: I don't want to start another discussion about shooting steel-shot from 3/4, I know what the manuals say ;)

     

     

    Hi I am also new to trap and have just purchased a 30 year old fabarm select trap 12g , should'nt you be looking for a gun choked at 3/4 and full?

    good luck.

    mick

  7. OK ALL YOU OLDER EX DART PLAYERS,

     

     

    IF YOU HAVE A SET OF THE ABOVE DARTS YOU DO NOT USE ANY MORE I WILL BUY THEM FROM YOU, THEY MUST BE IN GOOD CONDITION AND MUST BE COPPER TUNGSTEN AND NOT THE NEW SHINEY NICKEL TUNGSTEN THAT IS BEING SOLD AT THE MOMENT.

     

    I AM WILLING TO PAY £10 FOR THE RIGHT SET PLUS I WILL PAY THE POSTAGE.

     

    IF ANY ONE HAS A SET PLEASE SEND ME A PIC.

     

    THANKS MICK

  8. Ok I am probably going to regret asking this but anyway lets give it a shot (excuse the pun).

     

    The evil one, she who must be obeyed or quite simply my darling wife has decided that she now wants to go down to a 20 bore, so she wants to sell her S686 Silver Pirdiz 28" multi choke.

     

    However we have no idea what it is worth. I bought the gun for her 15 years ago and on average I am guessing it has been used 15 times a year so it is in very good condition. The only downside is there are a couple of cabinet scuffs on the bottom of the stock.

     

    So based on the very basic information I have provided what would you pay for it? ( I have two firends who want to buy it and I do not want to over or under charge them)

     

    Thanks, Jim

     

     

    Perdiz was discontinued in 1996 IIRC. The Silver Pidgeon replaced it.

     

    U could refer to the blue book of gun prices, may give u an idea.

     

    Mick

  9. HI ALL,

     

    HERE FOR SALE IS A NEW INPROVED VERSION OF A BERETTA GAS VALVE SOCKET I HAD MADE.

     

    THIS WAS BECAUSE I NEEDED SOMETHING TO REMOVE THE DREADED GAS VALE NUTS ON MY URIKA 2.

     

    A SIMILAR ONE FROM USA MADE OF AN UNKNOWN METAL COST OVER £45 TO BE SHIPPED HERE.

     

     

     

     

    THESE ARE MACHINED FROM HIGH GRADE TOOLING STEEL AND HAVE A QUARTER INCH SQUARE

     

    HOLE DOWN THE CENTRE USING A SPARK ERODER MACHINE PLUS A HOLE THROUGH THE SIDE TO ENABLE THE USER TO USE A VARIETY OF SOCKET BARS TO UNDO THE GAS VALVE NUTS.

     

    Spark eroding is a manufacturing process for removing excess material often not accessible or achievable by conventional machining processes on hard metals.

     

    PERSONALLY I USE A SCREWDRIVER WITH QUARTER SOCKET BAR WITH MINE,

    BUT YOU CAN ALSO USE A SOCKET WRENCH WITH THE QUARTER INCH SOCKET BAR, I ALWAYS USE COPPERSLIP ON THE GAS VALVE NUT THREAD TO ENABLE EASY REMOVAL.

     

    TO BE COST EFFECTIVE MY RELATIVE MADE 10, SO I NOW HAVE ONLY 2 LEFT FOR SALE[/size]. AND ONLY WANT TO COVER MY COSTS.

     

    PRICE POSTED TO UK ONLY, 2ND CLASS RECORDED, SIGNED FOR IS £26.00 SOCKET ONLY, NO OTHER PARTS THESE CAN SOURCED LOCALY

     

    PLEASE DO NOT CONFUSE THIS WITH A CHEAP ONE MADE IN THE UK OF AN UNKNOWN METAL.

    FOR MORE PICTURES OR INFO PLEASE PM ME,

     

    THANKS MICK

     

    This post has been edited by The Clay Rascal: Jul 4 2010, 02:13 PM

    post-20382-1280334450.jpg

  10. :good: hi All,

     

    up for a swap FOR A O/U SPORTER OR A SEMI OR WHAT HAVE U or sale IS £900 is our Barometer, aprox 1860, this has undergone a partial restoration in 2004 by Anthony Gray MBHI, HOROLOGIST IN KENT.

     

    The work involved a repair and a new mercury filled syphon tube and a period Ivory setting ****.

     

    I did not have the dial silvered as this would have made it look brand new which I did not want.

     

    Measurements are approximate-- 44" LONG X 13" WIDE X 2" DEEP, THE DIAL IS APPROX 10"

     

    WAS VALUED BY COLIN JONES OF THE BAROMETER SHOP IN Sep 2004 AS BEING £2.500.00 FOR A FULLY RESTORED AND GUARANTEED MODEL,

     

    the reason for the sale or swap is a change of decor and this will not fit in our new suroundings.

     

    These are a little tricky to transport as are full of MURCURY SO IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED IT WILL HAVE TO BE COLLECTED.

     

    I HAVE QUITE A FEW PICS AND WILL EMAIL TO ALL WHO ARE INTERESTED.

     

    THANKS FOR VIEWING MY BEAUTIFUL BAROMETER, I WILL BE SAD TO SEE IT GO BUT THIS WILL LOOK GREAT IN SIMILAR SUROUNDINGS.

    post-20382-1280333286.jpg

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