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sage 100

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Posts posted by sage 100

  1. Having finally tracked down a stock that is close to the one needed for my Zabala project.

    I have stripped the action down and am going to proceed in lining up the top strap(tang)with the main pin and chiselling the stock to fit before repeating to get the bottom tang to fit. This seems to be the logical starting point before making further adjustments to allow the rest of the action and safety to fit.

    Anybody got any experience in this??

    Cheers

    If you get stuck give me a call and I will give you a few pointers over the phone ******************************

  2. I would like to change my Lanber sporters safety catch because it is manual at the moment.Does anyone have the rod that automatically puts the safety on when breaking the gun.I know most clay shooters remove this rod, so if you have one lurking in the back of the shed please contact me.

     

    Part just turned up from GMK I will post are you ok with fitting? call me on 01823 665615.

  3. This is from where I mean. Unfortunately the oil has wiped off whilst in the bag.

     

    But this is the seam I am pointing to.

     

    post-30251-0-63935900-1307035390.jpg

     

    I have watched this thread with interest. Many of the postings have been correct in part, but this is my opinion. The method employed by Beretta and many others of forming their barrels on a monoblock system is a fully proven method of creating barrels. As it sleeving, which is a process which has been employed in the guntrade for numerous years. The process of sliding two tubes into a monoblock chamber is exceptionally strong and meets the requirement of proof houses around the world. Our blackers often experience minimal leakage from the monoblock when re-blacking barrels. However, from the looks of your Beretta it is a very new model and you are obviously quite meticulous with the way you keep it. Should you as a client be expected to have a product which I deem has failed? I do not accept that all Berettas leak from the monoblock, I know they do not. While I accept that this is more of a cosmetic issue than a safety one, I feel you should exercise your rights and return to the dealer and allow them to deal with GMK. Let me assure you if you were a client of mine and your gun would be at GMK's now, they would find it very difficult to get me to accept their version of normal. I think you are being frightfully British here and rolling over! You have spent a lot of money to purchase a quality gun - don't roll over.

     

    Regards

    Sage

  4. Nice to report some good service rather than keep hearing the negative experiences.

     

    Popped down to my local gunsmith (Ladbrook and Langton) as I needed my foreend (ahem) looking at. Turned out it needed a little tweak. They also cleaned up some staining around the chambers, ejectors and face whilst I was there. What did they want for that? "Just a drink thanks."

     

    Always a pleasure seeing Bob, Carl and their lad :good:

     

    Proper bunch of first rate gunsmiths

    Regards Sage UK Gun Repairs.

  5. Hi Mike - I can remember Roy having the BRNO and I fancied it at the time. They were ugly but quirky. I toyed with the idea of buying it myself and getting the action tightened up. They had an odd hinging mechanism from memory - I don't know the likely cost of repair. It might be an uneconomic repair.

     

    Trade money to put a Brono back on the face and tight is £70.00 ish and not a hammer in sight!!!! if you end up with the gun Gordon give me a call

    Regards Dennis

  6. Just completed re-finishing my Parker Hale 12G O/U , not bad for my first attempt - good times :-)

     

    Although I've also inadvertently converted it to non-ejector - bad times :-( I didn't realise in the base of the fore grip there was a ratchet type assembly and the spring part (i think) has fallen out without me knowing, I am hoping a gunsmith can fix it for me...?

     

    Have you lost the spring and plunger. if you send me the pattern from the other side I will make you a new plunger and match the spring. Regards Sage.

     

     

    Good first stock refurb.

  7. Crumbs,

     

    i wasn't expecting that, what a fabulously generous offer.

     

    I will take you up on it on the strength of the quality of your work alone, i look forward to seeing the barrels in all their glory.

     

    One point i would like to make is that i am not very good at accepting the generosity of others. It is not something that i often receive, i much prefer to help rather than be helped, so with the utmost humility, i don't think that i could allow you to do it for nothing, that doesn't seem fair to me. A reduced rate would still be more than one could possibly expect, or if you insist a donation to a charity of your choosing.

     

    get in touch via PM and we can make arrangements

     

    Yours humbly

     

    Greg

     

    Good evening, should have replied yesterday but very busy and didn't get the opportunity to look at the site. PM sent, look forward to your reply.

  8. I'll have a go at some basic calculations to get a rough starting point. I will show the working out so anyone can check the calculations (it is getting a bit late)and also anyone can change any of the assumptions made.

     

    Imagine the gun suspended by thin wires, like those ball bearings in the executive desk toy, so that it free to move. Make the usual schoolboy assumptions of no friction, all parts are incompressible etc.

     

    It should be fairly easy to calculate the force on the cartridge load. We then assume the same (equal magnitude but opposite direction) force on the gun and using F=ma we get a figure for acceleration of the gun.

     

    mass of load= 0.028Kg, what is acceleration?

     

    Assume it accelerates uniformly to 1350 fps in the first 18 inches of the barrel.

     

    From v2 = u2 + 2as, re-arrange to get a= (v2 - u2)/2.s

     

    putting in u=o m/s; s= 0.457m; v=411 m/s gives a=(411*411)/2.0.457 = 185,166 m/s2

     

    Force on cartridge load, F = m.a = 0.028 * 185,166 = 5185N

     

     

     

    Assuming the same force is applied to the gun, it will accelerate backwards at:

    a= F/m = 5185N/3.6Kg = 1440 m/s2.

     

    Dividing by g=9.8m/s2 gives acceleration of 147g.

     

    This is for the gun suspended as described. Any friction of the load up the barrels will reduce this, also compression or moving of gun components will reduce the acceleration of the whole gun backwards (semi-autos in particular have many moving parts which "soak up the recoil").

     

    To take this further is going to quickly lose accuracy, but for an example lets assume that the gun is mounted to the shooter and also has to accelerate the part of the shooters body.

    If the gun + shooter was 80lb, then as a first approximation the acceleration would be 1/10 of original so 14.7g.

     

    (Obviously most shooters weigh considerably more than 74lb, but then again the gun doesn't have to move all the body backwards, only the top bit. Also the human body is anything but incompressible. And it would depend how tightly it was held etc). This is the bit that is guess work.

     

     

    Having said all that, if you are only using the sensor as a switch, then consider using the smallest range you mentioned and it will give a full scale output when the gun fires.

     

     

    Hope this helps :good:

    THANK YOU SO MUCH.

    Thank you for your time and effort. will PM you

  9. Hi All,

     

    I'm new to this forum and shooting in general.

     

    i started about a month ago when my license arrived and purchased a near mint Lanber pro sporter gold 30" O+U from the father of a friend.

     

    I am obviously on a steep learning curve so have been taking advise from anyone and everyone on all matters of gun etiquette, shooting technique (several lessons in already) and gun maintenance.

     

    I am only really interested in clays at this stage.

     

    Anyway, it was following the last piece of advise given to me about how to go about removing some insignificant lead deposits at the end of the breech that i was told to use jenolite to get rid of it,

     

    The long and the short of it is that i obviously wasn't careful enough with the jenolite and bits must have got on the ends of the barrels and one blob about 6" down the barrel on the underside and it has stripped all the black off the barrels where it has touched, i had no idea it was so savage...

     

    this is obviously unsightly and i fear that it will rust quickly unless i get it recoated, i have cleaned the effected areas off thoroughly and put a fair bit of oil on it to inhibit any rust formation, but what is the 'proper' solution?

     

    i am in the west midlands, so if anyone can recommend anywhere local, that would be great

     

    Thanks

     

    Greg

    Sorry chap to read you sad tale, bad luck, and one reply we we not talk about. so do you want some good luck to show you we are keen to have new shooters on board. We as a company UK Gun Repairs will strip and re black your barrels FREE OF CHARGE they will look better than when they were new. it will cost you the carriage both ways and they will be returned in 3 weeks or less if you want to take us up on our offer call me on 01823665615 9 am to 10 pm Monday to Saturday.

    Regards and welcome Sage/Dennis.

  10. Sage,

     

    Great - I have spoken with David funny enough by e mail this week and steering towards his product so good to hear. Was it the carbon rib type with the magnets and tacky strip you fitted?

     

    Cheers

     

    Dibs

    Yes thats the one and looked good.

  11. The only people that I know of that accelerate people with explosives are Martin Baker of ejection seat fame; based in Bucks. May be worth a chat.

    Assuming the 8 lb lump has two barrels and one trigger, it's a pity that you can't utilise the second barrel "arming" (recoil), remove that barrel trigger mechanism so the barrel then "fires" immediately without the need to pull the trigger and somehow provide a signal to your equipment. Just a simple inertia switch in other words.

    Thanks for that I will look up Martin Got to find an answer ASAP.

  12. Sage,

     

    Thanks for your reply. Was there any particular make that you fitted / can recommend?

    t

    Both came from David Connor Period Guns 07876 335557 bot fitted well and looked good I have not looked into other types as yet so can only judge on just the 2 I have seen. Will say David Connor was very helpfull.

    Wish I could be of more help. Regards Sage.

  13. I have been looking at these on line from a couple of companies - rib-i and retrofit.

     

    Has anyone experience of using either of these or any other makes of any note? looking for a shallow one around 10mm high.

     

    cheers

     

    Dibs

    I have fitted 2 after market high ribs for clients and also fitted adjustable stocks to match, It is a growing trend with trap shooters and now moving into sporting.

  14. Can anyone help me please - I have reason to answer the following question.

     

    If an 8lb competition shotgun, 12 gauge, fires a 28 gram cartridge with the gun in a parallel position, what is the g force experienced when the trigger is pulled? The reason for this question is an accelerometer is being fitted to the gun as a form of switch to activate a procedure in my coaching program. The accelerometer is range rated, for example, Type 1 would be from 5-10 forces of G, Type 2 would be 10-15 and so on. I genuinely have no idea where to indicate we first start, so a learned answer would assist me greatly, save the expenditure of purchasing unwanted pieces of kit, so a starting point would be a great asset. I am fully aware of all the variables - angle of the gun, type of cartridge, resistance offered by various size shooters, climate and many others, thankfully the product is not that exacting that an exact number has to be achieved, but a good starting point would be splendid. I have spoken with two cartridge manufacturers, the proof house and a number of learned people from within the gun and cartridge industry and, surprisingly, I still have no answer.

     

    Thanks chaps

  15. Dave - there are various options which would put the matter right.

     

    On a different slant - can I say I admire the way you have not tried to evade what has happened and faced up to putting it right. It sounds just like the person you are, but in this day and age, some would be seeking to absolve themselves from blame or trying to wheedle out of it.

     

    Well done. :good: :good: :good:

     

    Nice words Gordon a big +1 from me.

  16. I think that's a box lock, not a side lock, albeit one with small sideplates :hmm:

     

    Anson and Deeley is a famous boxlock design

    You are correct. I have worked on this model and make grand little box lock and will give you a lot of fun and pleasure how do the barrels read?

  17. Most gun smiths will scrap them ( or sell them to the shotgun scrapman, they do exist!!!)

    Lost count of the number of times my scrap pile has helped out a client and come to that put a few pounds in my pocket. I am happy to scrap, do the paper work and horde spares.

    Example is this.

    To make a new main spring/ejector spring(leaf pattern) will cost from £80.00 to £360.00 as a one off. so just sometimes that rusty old gun is worth scrapping and doing 10 mins of paper work for.

    I scrap about 15 guns a month and would be very happy to quadruple that number.

  18. hello all,

     

    i have managed to bend/dent the rib on my O/U miruku its quite close to the end. it doesnt bother me shooting, but i might be selling it so just wanted to no how much it would be to have it removed or if i can do it at home somehow?

     

    thanks

    FS

     

    If you find yourself in my neck of the woods Wellington Somerset drop in I will remove it for you in ten minutes flat cost you a pint.

  19. Ok guys I need some help.

     

    The case extractor (the small circlip like thing in the end of the bolt) on my Remmy 700 .223 is badly worn, and I need to replace it.

     

    I have tried the channels I can think of, and made a fair few phone calls, but nothing.

    I can get one for the .308, but not the .223.

     

    Everybody I called seems to be waiting for either EB or something from the US.

     

     

    Do any of the gunsmiths on here have one that I can buy?

     

     

    Any help appreciated.

     

    Cooter

     

    RING RIFLECRAFT SHOULD HAVE IN STOCK.

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