JJsDad
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Posts posted by JJsDad
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Apologies. Did a quick amendment to text & ended up with two identical replies. Must be the nut on the keyboard
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Thought with a bit of reading, I might be able to releive you of a bottle of scotch. However, having had a look at Nigel Browns book `British Gunmakers` Vol 2; I can only offer you limited help as follows:
Esau Akrill is listed as starting in Beverley in 1833 to 1858 and at 25 Blackfriargate from 1847 to 1851. He is later shown to be at Mytongate, Hull between 1851 & 1855. Henry Akrill is shown as being at Market Place, Beverly from 1861 to circa 1894. The business is then shown at 18 Market Place from 1905 where it traded as "The Holderness Gun & Clothing Stores". It finally closed as you have noted, in 2001. H E Akrill had guns built using his name and specification by firms such as `Holloway`, `Osborne` & `Carr`; therefore the serial number will refer to the maker rather than Akrill. The Akrill Serial number, prefixed with the letters "HEA" was impressed into the inside of the forend wood or stamped into the wood behind the trigger guard. No record of serial numbers is shown prior to 1910.
The firms records are held by Roger Akrill - South Lawn, Church Lane, Thornton le Dale, N Yorks, YO18 7QL. Tel:01751 475093. If your gun has rebounding locks, i.e: you do not have to put the hammers to half cock in order to open the gun; it dates it as post 1867 when the rebounding lock first appeared.
Trust this is of some help.
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I can understand justintimes remarks. Up until recently I worked for the MoD with the Integrated Project Team who procure Infantry weapons. These, and the later H&K mags are not available through the normal gun shop. They have almost certainly been `liberated` by a cadet or serving soldier. 6 would be about the issued combat load for an SA80 equipted soldier. Want to answer some awkward questions about where they came from; then leave them on here.
If you have an FAC or SC you are are asking for it to be revolked if you cant explain where these mags came from !
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Very light oil but you MUST ensure the chamber an bore are totally clean and dry before use.
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You dont need a degree in anything to measure the depth of a hole with a match stick and then measure it with a rule.
The point I was making is that there is no such thing as a standard screw.
I take it from your response that you dont want any either !
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I guess like me he thought they were a standard size and someone would answer that you could buy them from so and so for 10p each, which is what I was hoping as I need some.
However, as you kindly pointed out that we need to have a degree in engineering to facilitate the measuring of some strange metric size whole the OP politely and with tact said thank you and bowed out.
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I am like Apache, got a pair on special offer from John Norris for about £80 odd. Well pleased, almost to nice for shooting !
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No offence meant; but in the light of your reply, what was the point of the question in the first place !
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I can probably help you out with a couple, but you are going to have to come up with the thread size. I would suggest on a Tikka they are metric but what size ?
3mm, 4mm. Also need head type and required thread length. The term standard size unfortunately means nothing. If you are really stuck PM me & I will post you a couple to try.
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Hang it on the wall & enjoy. She aint going to go bang again.
Regarding your comments about only being engraved Bland & Son, this supports my suggestion that it may not be a Thomas Bland !!
The serial number just does not fit those listed for Thomas Bland. There was dodgy dealing around, even in those days. You will periodically bump into a James Purdey thats spelt incorrectly and engraved as J Purdy. It was done to catch the unwary & greedy blighter who thought he had got the real deal at a cut price !! The vendor could escape legal action by pointing out the name was different, even if the intention was to deceive.
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Its legal; but your problem is finding someone who wants it ! Stick it up for offers, you never know there may be someone out there with a knackered set of barrels who`s on the look out for just such a piece.
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I have a Zabala with a broken stock, the main piece is missing. It was given to me as a project and I just know that I will not get around to doing it. Is it legal to sell, do I have to remove the small piece of wood that remains?
Cheers
Ricko
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seems odd that a "coach" would suggest this!!!
Probably the question for HDAV is "Have you got nice money" ?
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Hi there. In the light of your interest, i have had a look at "British Gunmakers" Vol 1 - London & can give you the following info:
Thomas Bland started up in Birmingham in 1840 and the first recorded address was where he traded from 41 Whittall Street in 1862.
He obviously did ok, because by 1867 he had expanded into No`s: 42 & 43. Bland junior joined his father in 1872 & the firm changed its name to Thomas Bland & Son.
he opened a shop in London in 1875 at 106 Strand. 10 years later he opened premises in Liverpool at 62 South Castle Street.
He evidently made himself a few bob, because by 1886 he opened additional premises at 430 West Strand. The shop at 106 Strand closed down in 1888.
Thomas Bland (the founder) died in 1887 & Thomas (Jnr) carried on at the West strand address until 1901 when it moved to 2 King William Street, Strand.
In c1904 the only son (T Clifford Bland) of Thomas (jnr) joined the firm. He had a passion for wildfowling & it was his interest that led to the firm gaining a reputation for big bore and long chambered wildfowling guns. The Birmingham end closed after WW1 in 1919. At the same time the London end moved to 4 - 5 King william Street, later re-named King WilliamIv Street around 1937. The firm went through a slight name change in 1937 becoming Thomas Bland & Sons (Gunmakers) Ltd.
T Clifford Bland died in 1943 but the firm continued until 1987 when the London rent rates brought about closure & sale. The Company sold out To Col Glen Baker and was re-started in the USA at Benton, Philadelphia.
While these addresses & dates may help in dating your old hammer gun; there is a degree of doubt over whether it is really a Bland from the Serial Number !
The Bland ser numbers ran from around 9786 in 1889 to 19,000 in the period 1960 to 1990. Having damascus barrels I would expect it to bear a serial number of around 9,000 through to c 17,000 (1889 - 1918).
Anyway, see what the address is on the top rib; this may well point you to the approx year of manufacture rather than the Ser No:
Trust this is of assistance.
JJs Dad
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hello mate, how do attach the band to the inside of the deek ?
In responce to wulliewinky`s thread; you need to set a close bended `V` in the end to be attached to the decoy using a pair of pliers. The decoy needs a transverse slot about 1mm wide in the back at the point of balance. An old heated up screwdriver does the trick. I have found steel banding tape a total waste of time with full bodied. They are two heavy; the spring tension in the banding tape is incapable of returning them to a natural position. Puff of wind & they are either staring at the sky, or standing on their heads.
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In responce to wulliewinky`s thread; you need to set a close bended `V` in the end to be attached to the decoy using a pair of pliers. The decoy needs a transverse slot about 1mm wide in the back at the point of balance. An old heated up screwdriver does the trick. I have found steel banding tape a total waste of time with full bodied. They are two heavy; the spring tension in the banding tape is incapable of returning them to a natural position. Puff of wind & they are either staring at the sky, or standing on their heads.
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I had a lot of steel banding from my local builders merchants. It's used to wrap around blocks of stone etc.
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I hear what you say about flea-bay, however. There is a guy on there (Sports/hunting/accessories) who does a dozen spring steel sticks for about £7.00 + about £2.00 P&P. They are purpose made and do what it says on the tin.
He does two types. One for shells & one for full bodied. I have been down the steel banding strap route & while it works (sort off) its not a patch on these sticks I bought. I`ve had a pack of each off him & they work a treat. If you are penniless have a go with steel banding but I fear you will find your deeks like demented woodpeckers when the wind gets up.
PS: Just dug out my old invoice. The guys moniker is: "sfrancis 1206" Currently on the bay of evil at £7.00 + 2.88.
Worth a look, unless your sorted with the steel banding tape.
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Hi. Interested in your stainless 1/4 and 3/4 Invector`s. PM sent
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Thanks for pics. You`ve got a deal. See PM
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Hi Jack. Thanks that was blooming quick ! PM sent
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Wanted. Choke key for Browning Invector chokes. Please note: Not Invector plus.
Prefer the full bodied version with the `T` bar. Would also accept the cast version with double grips.
But not the awful flat plate variant that most people binned the moment they saw it.
Also interested in spare Invector chokes in Imp Cyl, Modified & 3/4.
Thanks to a brilliantly quick response to this add by member jack1818. This wanted add is now closed.
Thanks fella.
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Hi Jay. Is your Winchester still for sale ? I am interested, however i`m not clear if after the last correspondance its still for sale
Cheers
JJsDad
Shotgun Barrels
in Guns & Equipment
Posted
Most start off as drilled blanks made from forged bar, which are then either spill bored on a lathe or cold hammer forged by a machine onto a mandrel. The better ones are then polished using a lap and oil/emery powder.I think this is what the previous reply meant when he said extruded. Rifle blanks for example start off as a drilled tube approx 18in long; in the hammering process they elongate to around 24 - 25in, hence the reference to extrusion. On many of the popular imports (Berreta / Browning 425) the exterior of the barrel is then machined to remove the small marks left by the hammering process and the tube is then sleeved and silver soldered into the seperate breech piece. The joint is often partially disguised by simple engraving or a series of tiny stamped rings. Dont know what you saw at the Game Fair, but you certainly didnt see a seam running longitudinally down the barrel.