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Ooops

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  5. Deer antler for puppies

    in Dogs and Dog Training

    Posted

    Regardless of age, the general advice appears to be "don't give antler to your dogs"

    The following is from a discussion on another forum
    "Following some discussion with other vets, particularly dental expert types, the advice on using antlers as chews is simple: Don't. 
    If you wanted to design something to cause slab fratures of the carnassial teeth (the big one mid jaw) then it would be antler. Since antlers were marketted as dog chews, there's been a rise in these fractures. The fracture can be treated with endodontics, but you have to be doing it very soon after the fracture has happened, so most need full tooth removal. A chewing toy needs enough give for 3-4mm depth of bite, so yes, this also rules out bones.    "

    To be clear, I'm lead to believe that for adult dogs softer bones such as ribs are fine, heavy load bearing not so much
    YMMV

  6. Help needed

    in General Shooting Matters

    Posted

    5 hours ago, wishy735 said:

    Thanks I have been in touch with them today and they are more than eager to take my case on

    Wishy that's excellent news. Let us know your progress as things unfold.

    As a point of interest, did you join BASC and get a consultation? 

  7. Help needed

    in General Shooting Matters

    Posted

    Wishy sorry to hear about your troubles.

    This lady was mentioned on the TDS forum as being particularly effective. Amongst her specialities are firearms licensing appeals. 

    "Laura Saunsbury from Lewis Nedas Law, who is a leading expert in Firearms Law. Laura is a consultant solicitor with 25 years experience practicing exclusively in firearms related law, both criminal offences and firearms licensing appeals"

    The original thread may read at https://www.thestalkingdirectory.co.uk/threads/hare-coursers.204260/ post #1 

    Hope this helps

  13. Even more ****** with dogs

    in Dogs and Dog Training

    Posted

    2 hours ago, 12gauge82 said:

    I think you misunderstood my post, that is for dog that has already bitten and won't let go

    I apologise I did partially misunderstand you. My reference was predominantly regarding dog on dog. Pulling the rear legs, (walking backwards dragging the dog until it lets go) is much lower risk and really effective. It does assume that one dog doesn't want to be there. If its two hard, driven dogs it'll need one person for each dog or one dog secured but again it really will work 

    The technique you describe was once, many years back, used by military handlers and it definitely does work but I've only seen it prescribed with the lead already attached to the collar.

    In one incident I was all out of options and I did as you describe, I got mangled. No serious punctures but three weeks before I could use my wrist properly and I only managed to slow the dog up, I never got a good enough grip to stop him

    2 hours ago, 12gauge82 said:

    I can assure you, I have dealt with dogs that you could drag them by the back legs all day long and they still wouldn't come off

    I'm sure you're right, no question about it, particularly so with certain breeds but for many it will work. 

    2 hours ago, 12gauge82 said:

    Like I said in my earlier post, a determined and big enough dog vs a smaller person and it'd be a very bad outcome no matter what they did. 

    I absolutely agree with you and would add the average fit, healthy 5'11" unarmed guy would not do well in that situation

    Again 12gauge, I apologise for any misunderstanding on my part

  14. Even more ****** with dogs

    in Dogs and Dog Training

    Posted

    5 hours ago, 12gauge82 said:

    The best way to deal with an aggressive dog that has made a bite is to attempt a couple of swift boots to break contact, although in truly aggressive large dogs this is very unlikely to work, in which case, if they have a sturdy collar on, take hold of it and twist until their air supply is cut off, the dog still might not let go but obviously will once it passes out, unfortunately a very large, driven and truly aggressive dog vs a smaller person isn't likely to end well no matter what you do. 

    @B725 Really sorry to hear about your daughter. I hope she recovers quickly with no last effects

    @12gauge82 I'm sorry but I have to very strongly disagree with you.

    Over the years I've been witness to and on the receiving end of dog fights, bites & attacks and I can tell you that what you describe probably wont work and in fact it runs a very high chance of resulting in you getting badly bitten.

    When a driven dog fights it looses all perspective of every thing except its taget. If its owner were to grab it by the collar he or she would likely be bitten, I've seen it happen first hand. It's even more likely to happen if a stranger were to try it.

    The safest way is to grab the attacking dog by both its back legs and drag it backwards away from its victim. You'll be safe & it will be incapacitated until you're ready to release it by which time hopefully its owner will have reattached its lead. You could also try using your lead as a noose around it's back legs that way you could, if circumstances permit, tie the offender off to some thing but I have to say I've never tried this

    There's no excuse for this sort of behaviour, its the handlers fault and it should be hammered hard. Owners / handler have a responsibility to manage their animals so that they are allowed become a nuisance. And to have a dog bite some one & then FO is a seriously low thing to do and should be severely punished.

    It's not just about the bite and the immediate physical trauma, the after effects can include the lasting effects of crush injuries, nerve damage & a psychological element which shouldn't be underestimated. The same things also apply to victimised dogs.

    If you're dog's being attacked you'll do whatever you have to have to protect it but in doing so you run a strong risk of becoming the target. If you get a kick in on a dog, depending on its temperament there's chance it'll come for you and I've seen this happen.  I don't have a problem with that scenario and I always go equipped for it with a stout walking stick. And the reverse of that is that I aways carry a muzzle.

    My last encounter was against six uncontrolled dogs who attacked, while my two were incapacitated. I defended flank & rear ends with my walking stick. We beat five off quickly and the last one who had managed a the throat hold bailed when my other dog and I unleashed hell upon it. I was unscathed but my dogs suffered lots minor wounds.

    My dogs are very tough and robust and suffered no lasting effects but for a while they were preemptively aggressive toward unknown dogs. As such It was my responsibility to manage them appropriately whilst they were in public until such time that their heads reset. Depending on circumstances they were kept on long lines, short leads and when appropriate they were preemptively muzzled. Lesser dogs would likely become neurotic after such an event, possibly never getting over it

  19. Brace of .25's

    in Airgunners

    Posted

    22 hours ago, Chaz25 said:

    I think higher mounts will work,

    Chaz I got a tank adapter that lowers the bottle, works a treat, although it adds appx an inch to the LOP
    You'll have loads of fun with it, easy to work on and they shoot brilliantly

    The originals from way back got a lot of bad press but that's a thing of the past. Known issues "if you have them" are easily fixed and there's a ton of info and parts available if that takes your fancy

    002.jpg

    TTTA-img5-L.jpg

    TTTA-Latest2.jpg

  24. Sore feet

    in Dogs and Dog Training

    Posted

    On 01/05/2019 at 15:05, Stonepark said:

    Look at the natural treatments such as ... cider vinegar warm foot bath  

     

    Am I right in thinking that you dilute the cider vinegar with warm water?

    If so what ratio of water to vinegar would you recommend

     

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