BOLTA

Hi, Good. I think we have it all cleared up now. I just gave this comment of not shooting woodies in the middle of the chest with an airgun to get a clean kill, because there are new begginers here reading this stuff and they don´t have to try this with an airgun and see that it can´t be done. That is why I wrote that statement. I personally always go for a clean kill either in the head, neck or heart/lung every time I pull that trigger. Mostly the heart shot. BOLTA

Hi mark@cssd, If you think I need to moderate my style and tone, I will do that if that helps anyone. That is no problem for me. But I don´t liked to be attacked by any who is thinking I am here just to tell lies. What I tell is only the truth of what I have experienced - thats all. Cheers - BOLTA

Hi red_stag88, Yeah, you can try it if you like - but be sure to return to me with a sad smile on your face to tell me that I am right !!! My 56fpe airgun can´t do it and so can yours not !!! You will never have the power to penetrate that breastbone of the woodies. You will need a rimfire to do this. And I mean in the center of the chest from straight front, not from any other angles. Cheers - BOLTA

Hi FM, I don´t know if I am one of these guys you mentioned. But I have not exaggerated ANY of this stuff I have wrote earlier. I keep to the truth, nothing but the plain truth. I just give my experience to you, so you can learn of it. Yes, I have a very powerful airgun - I know that !!! And again, if you have a powerful FAC airgun you can take woodies from almost any angle you like - but not straight on in center of the chest. You will probably need a least around 100fpe and a heavy weight pellet/slug to do this. THIS IS THE TRUTH, mate. And by the way, I take nearly every woodie I pull the trigger at and they are stone-dead before they hit the ground. Not just 2 out of 10 birds here !!! That is only for beginners, mate. Cheers - BOLTA

Hi Gamebag, 1.) You can see clear and longer with Gen. 2 than Gen. 1. With a Gen. 1 you should not expect to see much futher than max. 100 yards unless a lot of light from cities. That is maybe good enough then you having a rabbit in sight with your airgun at 30-50 yards, but it is not enough for scaning a big field for rabbits. A Gen. 2 or higher would be better for this task. 3.) Yes, you can easily get Gen. 2 and higher monoculars if you like. 2.) I would strongly suggest what you look at www.sovietbazaar.co.uk website and see what they have. Their prices are fair and they know what they are doing. www.Deben.com also have a few nv scopes you can look at. The benefits of Gen. 1 is their lower prices and there are normally no problems exporting them. But in my opinion, if your wallet is to it - a Gen. 2 or higher is the best choice. If you shine an IR-illuminator agaist a rabbit - the rabbit´s eyes will shine and you can easy spot the rabbits that way then you scaning a field for rabbits with your nv equipment. That is a great thing. Cheers - BOLTA

Hi everybody, I think it best if we kept to the subject that mahmood started here !!! And that is about taking woodies with an airgun, mates. So anybody who has something good to say about this subject is welcome. Cheers - BOLTA

Hi frank555, Yeah , maybe a AR-15 or an Uzi. The other stuff I wrote here is NOT taken out of a Quentin Tarrantino movie - but is DEADLY reality, I can assure you. Just blast them away !!! Cheers - BOLTA

Hi again, Going for a scope or a monocular, hard question - Gamebag. If you only want to put it on your gun a scope would be best choice I think. But if you need to scan the land for bunnies with nightvision a monocular, maybe mounted as a goggle, would be the best choice. You could also do what I am doing, a monocular behind a BIG objective scope. The monocular need to be a least a Gen. 2 or 2+ , plus this system will come close to a real day/night scope in price. With this system you have no movement with zeropoint of the scope and you can take the monocular off and use it as goggle. I have now added the monocular to my scope and all I need now is to make my stock about 2" longer, plus I need to mount a longer cheekrest to rest on. Then it should be ready for use. I have looked through the nightvision scope and it works. The picture is darker than just looking through the monocular itself, so I think a need a little IR illumination to make it work perfectly. I hope this information can help some. Cheers - BOLTA

Hi, Rjimmer. Going for a day/night system, well that is going to be very expensive. And you still need to be careful with the nightvision modul at daylight, although that almost any nightvision scope/monoculars has a daylight filter. Well, Gamebag. How is your wallet ? Thick or thin ? Thick and you would like a very good nightvision system then go for Gen. 2, Gen 2+ and Gen. 3. Gen. 1, if you choose this system you going to need a powerful IR illuminator to make it work. And still I would not recommend this Gen. - too bad in my opinion. I have a Gen. 2+ monocular and I am trying to fit it behind my Nightforce scope on my Daystate Huntsman, so I have a day/night system. The monocular perform very good. It is 1x system, so I just use it as an ordinary goggle for now. Look at Soviet Bazaar website for nightvision equipment. Cheers - BOLTA

Hi, I had an experience one day for a about 3 month ago. I was standing in my garden dressed in full Mossy Oak Break-Up camo and were standing next to a tree in the garden, not against it. The neighbours cat entered my garden and walk right by me within 2 feet length. It did not see me at all and I were standing motionless. So I think it is a good camo pattern for hunting and all that talk about these camo patterns don´t work very good, I simply don´t believe that. This experience showed me that I can trust my MO-BU, just you keep as still as possible near quarry. I also think a guillie suit is good camo, but still you need to be completely motionless to make it work Cheers - BOLTA

Hi, At that distance (15-20 yards) I normally shoot completely through them in the heart area with the Bisley Pest Control pellets, leaving a very BIG BLACK hole. Cheers - BOLTA

Hi, Excellent pellets. Just the pellets shoot acurrate in you airgun and you have enough power behind these pellets to make them expand, they do a REALLY good job on the quarry, ripping more tissue and veins over than a "standard" pellet. I am shooting these pellets in .25 with 56fpe behind them and I can get them to expand to their double sizes. And they are very accurate in my Daystate Huntsman airgun to make a 1" group at 60 yards on a no-wind day. Cheers - BOLTA

Hi again, I agree with you Gamebag. A sideshot to the heart/lung area make them go down. Especially with a FAC airgun. I remember the first woodie I shot was with a sideshot to the heart/lung and WOW it went straight down. I have also taken woodies with almost straight front to me and placed the pellet in the side closest to me (angle of 10-15 degrees) shooting around the large breastbone and into the heart area. So they can be taken from almost any angle you choose if you have FAC airgun, but never straight on in the center of the chest. Cheers - BOLTA

Hi, With a FAC airgun you can easy take heartshots too. With my airgun .25 56fpe shooting Bisley Pest Control pellets, the woodies go straight down (very dead). Sometimes I shoot one BIG lethal hole through the chest of them (double size of .25) also making them drop dead instantly. This case of a hole right through the birds punctures the theory that a pellet should stop within a quarry to get a clean kill. This case shows it is more about ripping tissue and veins over to get a clean kill, no "dumping of energy effect". Never shoot a woodpigeon from straight on in the center of the chest - you don´t have the power to penetrate the breastbone and the crop behind it. To do this, you need a least a high power rimfire or even more firepower ! Cheers - BOLTA